tizdaz

Hi guys 🙂 I bought a used seagull decathlon 30 which needed some TLC, its pretty much ready to go now apart from a few bits, the first is the font window section, I've attached a pic that shows the plastic window peeling away from the fuse, what's best method to re-seal this, do i use a certain kind of tape or can i just use normal silicone etc? Second is the tail section has some damage where the stabilizer is, what's best way to repair this, again should i fill with some normal filler then cover with some tape or is there a better method? I don't have an iron nor have i any experience with covering so the simpler the better! 🙂 Cheers!

the club I've joined has been around for over 60 years & fly IC, i don't think my .46 with a silenced muffler will be an issue especially as turbine models are flown ! & im also 100% certain they adhere to all the BMFA regulations including noise 😉 & there is also a moto-X track nearby that is used regulary, im sure if noise was an issue, then the motoX track would would not exist! But thanks for your input regarding what type prop i should use! 😄

Hi Denis, I fly at a large open area that my club has away from residential areas so noise isn't an issue 🙂 I bought my decathlon used and it had a 12x6 prop on it (which has seen better days so to speak!) so while at my LMS i asked them for advice and they recommended the 12x7 which i purchased. It wasn't until i got home to do more research i noticed there wasn't really a clear answer on the "best" as you already pointed out. So as im still learning to fly, is a 12x7 prop ideal or would you recommend the 11x6? cheers! yeh i definitely want more power than speed as I'm still learning to fly etc 🙂

Hi guys, I have a seagull decathlon 30 which has a LEO .46 plant, what's an ideal prop for this for a steady flight? at the mo it has a 12x7 prop but not flown yet, any info much appreciated, thanks 🙂

hiya buddy, yeh mainly lipos, but for the sake of a few mins removing the battery, i always charge the battery outside of model, it also allows you to fully visually inspect the battery for any damage etc 😉

While convenient, i would always charge batterys outside of the model, should the worse happen, you would lose your battery pack, not your whole model! I've seen it happen a few times!!

Hi guys, as per title, I'm trying to find a gasket for my Leo .46 Glow engine muffler (its basically same as the os .46 engine in terms of fitment). Only ones i can find are genuine OS gaskets (£15 for a pack of 3! ...no thanks!) ..surely there's cheaper ones around!? Anyone know of any UK retailer that sell them 🙂 ? Or could i use something like this instead: https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/carplan-instant-gasket-38gm-549773891?gclid=CjwKCAjw0dKXBhBPEiwA2bmObeJKnCqN6JPa8V_WqQFWd2bG3TgAjmAXZDiYJqY1KTh1-iylymVXZRoCBXgQAvD_BwE ? Cheers!

Hi guys, i need some replacement pushrod for my Boomerang (throttle). The original is damaged, i went to my local hobby shop and he gave me a replacement but it seems thinner than the original, so much so it flexes alot, the original one is stiff with no flex. What thickness do i need so it has no bendy flex from just holding it!?, is it 1mm or 1.5mm? i also need the tube for it too so it can pass through the sections etc. Thanks 🙂

ok ive done a little research & it is possible to programme 2 or more servos to the same channel using SBUS, but can I set separate functions to each servo, such as reverse on one of the servos?

Hi guys I have a Futaba T6k V2 TX which supports SBUS/SBUS 2. Is it possible to run 2 SBUS Servos off the same channel using SBUS? The reason being is I want to program the servos speed to slow right down to give a more scale feel to the flaps on my plane & I would also need to reverse one of the servos. My TX doesn't have servo speed setting but if I use SBUS then I can program the SBUS servos speed directly via SBUS. So ideally I would like to run both servos off the same channel, is this possible by just assigning the same channel to both servos, or would I need to use a Y lead from the SBUS hub and connect both servos to that for the flaps, or would I basically need to assign a separate channel for each servo no matter what? Any help much appreciated! Thanks

here's vid: My original method of setting this module up was to connect both channels of the module to 2 separate channels on my RX then connect the 2 flap servos to the module & the outcome was the issue above However, I then did this.... Connect ONE channel of the Module to a chosen channel on your RX (For mine its Channel #5) now connect the single connector of the Y Lead to the correct channel on the module & then connect both Flap servos to the Y Lead. The module I'm using is the "Logic RC Servo Slow" which is a 2 channel servo slow module that supports up to 8.4v, so it's good for 7.2v RX Lipo packs (Most of these modules when I was looking to buy only support up to 6v!). I picked it up for less than £10 from my LHS which is a much cheaper than a new TX that supports Servo Speed setting! In the video you can only see one flap as my other wing I'm still building! But the other servo is connected out of sight & it works in sync with correct speed. As mentioned in my previous post, I have tested this setup in another model using a 26cc Zen 2-Stroke engine for any issues. But to be honest the issues people are having with this will not be interference, my guess is it will be the voltage pulse which is out of sync from the module causing it to flutter. But the trick above worked for me no issues. [url] Cheers!

A Y lead is what is usually used when you want to run 2 servos off the same channel, the module I'm using is a 2 channel module (most slow down modules are single channel) so instead of using 2 channels for the module/flaps I'm now using a single channel for the flaps, to be honest this is how it's meant to be setup after looking up information on the module, which means I still have the other channel on the module free to use for anything else, although I prob have no need for the 2nd channel on it. Yes, checked with engine running, if you do suffer with interference from engine spark in petrol engines, this is usually down to poor insulation on the cap and/or poor placement of RX.

Works all good, no interference, for those that get the "jitter" effect, this happened to me once I connected the second servo, so I had a play around and the fix is to use a Y lead between the servos and module. Works with no issues now and very smooth ?

Try the Logic RC Servo Slow, I just bought it and tested it, works flawlessly, also has 2 chan built into it so you only need 1 module to connect 2 servos, will post vid later ?

All sorted, that module works great ?

Hey guys! Think I'm onto a winner! This supports up to 8.4v apparently: https://www.logicrc.com/?s=c:0,c:50,c:50-60&ItemId=P-FS-SS ?

I've looked into the programming part, apparently there is no programmer available for the Spektrum A6380 servos! One thing with RC Electrics.. All the years I've done RC modelling, when it comes to electrics/Radios etc.. Nothing is ever straight forward! You either need this or that to make "it" work! .. & they say digital is "better"!

The T6K which I currently have has 3 position switches and rotary knob, but as pointed out the 10j still doesn't have servo speed option, think I will just use a 6v battery and use an I line servo slow down module, best option I think ?

Hiya, The servos I have are the HV Spektrum A6380, so guess this programmer would be best option, or a 6v battery instead of my 7,4?

Hi, I had a look at that, but it says 6v, my battery is 7.4 lipo I'm using spektrum hv servos ?

Hi guys, How do i setup servo speed on my T6K? I want the flaps to move slowly which I have set on Channel 5 and are activated with a 3 position switch (Off/Half/Full) switch works fine and flaps go into position, but i want them to move slowly instead of the default speed. Any ideas? Cheers!

Hi guys! ok I received my new T6k, but it only comes with a 6 channel receiver (I would have thought it would come with an 8 channel receiver as the set was updated from 6 channels to support 8 channels!?). Anyway I need the full 8 channels. So does this mean I need to buy the 8 channel receiver as I've read a little about this "S-Bus" but I've never used it or actually know exactly what it is, I believe it is some sort of extension for the channels? Cheers!

Hi guys, I'm installing the retracts on my H9 20cc Mustang. I have the e-flite retracts which is what is recommended in the manual etc. Anyway I fit the retracts with zero issues (very simple to be honest) & they work great, but the issue is with the gear doors that use hinges! I've fit the doors, and it does seem to work, but while trying to fit them I had an issue with the door jamming preventing the retract working properly, luckily the eflite retracts have surge protection whereby power is killed should there be a jam during operation, or I'm pretty sure the eflite retract motor would have been fried! Anyway like I say after a good few attempts the door seems to be ok & the retracts go up & down freely (if a little tight). But I'm still concerned as last thing I want is the gear jam when landing/take off etc. I think the way the door fixes to the retract is a poor design that uses a hinge, if the fix point of the door to the strut is + or - 1mm out then it will cause issues with binding. My other option is to fix the doors to the strut like on the P-47 which seems a much better design, as this hinge design on the P-51 seems flawed? I've looked at a few videos on youtube & it seems a lot seem to leave the gear doors off altogether! Is this a known issue with the gear doors on this particular H9 model using the retracts? What you guys think, anyone here with experience fitting the gear doors to this particular model have the same issue or any tips etc? Cheers!

Seems I will have a very similar setup to yours in terms of electrics! ..I've always used eneloops, imo the best cells there is for TX's especially for the price. I remember not using a set for over 6 months, so checked the health on them & they still had 75% charge in them ?