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Piers Bowlan

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Everything posted by Piers Bowlan

  1. Also the SLEC Funfly seems really good value (£90 for the E version or £97 IC). Should still be flying long after the foam model has been scrapped, with a bit of luck. if you want to build inexpensive models buy a big 8 x 4ft sheet of polystyrene and fashion a hot wire cutter. Brown paper and PVA is cheap too, so with a bit of creativity and patience the world is your oyster!
  2. If you put your model aeroplane on the ground where cars are parked (a car park) even for a moment, sooner or later you can expect it to be run over by a car. I think a motor insurance company would find someone making a claim for damage to personal property under these circumstances hilarious and reject any liability. People are expected to take reasonable care of their possessions. The club chairman should make clear the committee’s position that his behaviour is unacceptable and that he must put it down to experience and get over it, or move on. No if’s or buts.
  3. ‘Attractive’ as in cheap? If they are designed for drones using them in a fixed wing model is inviting unforeseen problems in my view and not worth it. Just pay the extra fiver and enjoy the hobby.
  4. Alfred, I can send you a scanned copy of these photos, if they are difficult to read. Just PM me. Probably fly very nicely with a modern brushless motor and LiPo.
  5. What are you looking for Alfred. I have quite a few RCM&E plans and build articles that are prior to 2007. Maybe I can help?
  6. A bit off topic (sorry) but what wire and ferrules do you use? I have never used closed loop controls (about time I did).
  7. Dicks suggestion to dismantle the motor (if possible) and work from the inside, is what I would try personally. If there is some of the screw thread proud of the inside of the motor case at least there would be something you could get a long nosed mole grip onto? Play some heat on the motor case to break down the thread lock before trying to turn it, as suggested by JD8 . One of the dangers with drilling, is of the drill bit hitting the windings once it has broken through the screw. So one way or another dismantling the motor sounds unavoidable to me and probably what an engineering company would do. No harm in asking an engineering company for a cash price by the way. You may be surprised, £10 or £20 quid may cover it, which would be worth it. If it was me trying to drill it out, the motor would definitely end up scrap. Where is Laser Engine’s Jon, when you need him, he would know how to do it.
  8. ‘If it looks right, it flies right’ Thanks for sharing Brian. I particularly like the look of your Fiesta -and The Bean (Skyliner), of course.
  9. A while back I bought a second hand (May 91) edition of RCM&E which featured the Chilli Wind. It looks fast standing still! Mine will be electric, once I have finished my current build.
  10. Thank you very much for that Jeff, PM sent. I think I may have taken a look at the self same Bean kit for sale in SMC some years ago! The foam wings were nice but there seemed to be very little else in the box, certainly no fittings or wheels etc. I don't recall there being an ABS cowl either. The kit didn't come with a plan which was a disappointment. The upshot was that I didn't buy it as I didn't think it great value for money. On reflection, I have never been a fan of ABS cowls in any event and £130 for a kit nowadays doesn't buy you much.
  11. The Bean is a low winger whereas the Dwarf Bean appears to be a shoulder/mid winger or is that just an illusion due to the colour scheme? I wondered about buying the Dwarf Bean plan and scaling it up somewhat, as the Bean plan does not seem to be available. Unless, that is, someone has one stashed away in a dusty drawer somewhere? Perhaps you still have the original Brian?
  12. Good point Nigel, compaired with scratch building, a £300 (ish) RTF doesn’t sound that expensive, especially if you are time poor. It is really a question of how many people will have to give up their hobbies due to their finances being stretched, because of the cost of living crisis? Aeromodelling is not the only hobby that may contract as consequence of price hikes. On a more positive note a Laser engine is a great investment that should last many years, far longer than a not so cheap ARF model. Perhaps also there will be a revival in a domestic kit market utilising foam extensively and minimal balsa? Unfortunately there may not be enough people who possess the skills to put a kit together.
  13. Should have been ‘ increase drag on upgoing aileron to increase drag’ Opps
  14. The Aerocobra has aerodynamically balanced control surfaces to reduce control loads. The p39 is unusual in that they extend the full width of the elevators whereas it is generally more usual to involve part of the control surface, notably the top section of the rudder of aircraft with unpowered controls (generally light aircraft and warbirds). An alternative solution to reduce aerodynamic control loads is a balance tab. Incidentally, an ‘anti-servo tab’ has the opposite effect and fitted to an all flying tailplane to increase loads. Aircraft with powered controls don’t usually have aerodynamically balanced controls. As Craig said earlier, frise ailerons produce drag on the down-going aileron to help counteract adverse yaw. Awesome model build, following with interest
  15. Presumably it is obvious that that the two halves are misaligned at the root Andy? If the two wing panels are aligned at the root but there is twist in one of the wing halves at the tip (warped) then obviously there is not a lot you can do about that, apart from build another wing, like you say. It could also be worth checking the lateral balance point of the wing, for if one wings is significantly heavier than the other (not uncommon with epoxy/glass wings) this will also affect the lateral trim. In addition! A twist in the fuselage can cause roll (further effect of yaw is roll) requiring aileron trim to correct. I just thought I would add my two penny worth to be clear on what is causing your problem before you saw your lovely wing in half! If you can’t live with it the way it is, then there is nothing for it but to saw away, through the spar and all. (if there is one). I have made several foam wings over the years and usually I make a vertical slot in the wing roots and then cut a full-depth ply web (1mm thick) as a dihedral brace, which I securely epoxy into the foam. A layer of glass cloth and epoxy across the joint should render the wing pretty indestructible. I hope you get it sorted Andy and good luck.
  16. Thank you for the explanation idd, I understand now (I think ?) I must confess, I didn’t look at the price of the smaller battery when I bought my Leaf and I agree, 95% of the time you don’t need a humungusly large battery (Tesla drivers please note). I think there is a market for a basic no-frills EV with a 100mile range. For instance, you don’t need a Bose sound system, adaptive cruise control/lane keeping etc. The Chinese build them for the Chinese market but not for export, which is a pity because in China they are silly cheap and look like…. cars, not a design schools student’s nightmare (Twizy!).
  17. Great looking model Graham. Respect! Sorry to hear about your unfortunate rapid arrival due to control issues. As it is the second time this has happened it is likely a common cause? Did you use the same motor ESC in both models or if a separate RX battery, the same battery? Whether a complete loss of control or slow servos with glitching, both could point to a problem with the power supply with Rx and servos. Two duff Rx? Probably not very likely. Just my 2p worth.
  18. I did consider a used Leaf as I thought I would just use it very locally so range wouldn’t really be an issue and it was better than cycling in the rain! I am glad we got the new one as it turned out. We use it as our primary car and did 12k miles the first year. I believe battery dedradaton isn’t such the big issue some people think. I bought a ‘wizzy’ Audi TT back in the day but after 12 years and 95k miles it was quite seditory, so even ICE engines lose their sparkle . My Leaf is 217ps and does 0-60 in 6.9sec so if it loses 20% of that in 10 years it will still have 173ps (not too shabby!). OK, the range will reduce to 192m from 240m (144m from 180m, typical winter driving). The electric drive train including the battery is guaranteed 8years and 100,000 miles by Nissan against any defect including dropping 20% in battery capacity/performance.
  19. If the c of g is too far forward it will fly badly, too far back and it will fly once. Any idea of what make of model it is, if it is ARTF or who designed it, if built from a plan? 25% of mean average chord as a starting point if you can’t find a published figure for the model. Good luck with the maiden Craig .
  20. I appreciate that GG but in fairness I did say ‘in a couple of decades’ when there is infrastructure everywhere to cater for EVs and a large second hand car market. Battery costs will have inevitably fallen too (solid state and aluminium/air batteries?). Even today new EV cars are available in China for £10K. Inevitably with anything new it is the luxury market which is catered for initially. Prices will fall in real terms when they become mainstream. A new Leaf is £28k if you are not fussed about leather seats You could buy a used one until recently for £7000 with a 30kWh battery, before the second hand car market went mad. A basic new Octavia SE is over £24,000 by comparison, incidentally. Yes, less than a Leaf. I am on a pension too by the way GG. I meet many people driving around in luxury SUV who could have the means to go EV but are wedded to their ICE engine because that is what they have always had.
  21. Interesting post, particularly ‘buy the smallest battery you can with the fastest charge capability’ the logic of that is a bit lost on me ? I bought a Leaf a year ago - I will never go back to ICE. But given the choice between the 40kWh and the 62kWh Leaf battery it was a no brainer - I got the bigger battery which can provide a total range of 240miles or, - on a frosty morning with front and back heated windows, heated seats on high, a/c on etc. more like 180 miles. Annual mileage of 7500miles (22miles a day) is the national average so for most people a 180 mile round trip range (worst case) is adequate for the vast majority of journeys. ICE drivers are oft heard to say ‘but I can refuel my car at the garage in five minutes’ while I say, I can refuel my car at home in five seconds ( 5 seconds to plug it in and is ‘refuelled’ whilst I sleep ) . People are very conservative and resistant to change. In a couple of decades I think most people will be convinced and think it odd that we actually drove around in ICE vehicles ‘back in the day’
  22. Buy a roll of cellophane as nothing sticks to that. It is available on eBay, it’s used by florists, in the food industry and GRP manufacture. Some art and decent craft shops sell it sometimes too. Cling film a a waste of time, as you discovered.
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