Piers Bowlan

Rich beat me to it! The Sonata is a classic glider kit now with laser cut parts and originally powered with a speed 400 brushed motor. Now much better performance with a brushless motor and LiPo. It is for three Chanel’s; Rudder Elevator and throttle which keeps the wing build simple. Another classic also available from The Balsa Cabin is the Keilcraft Challenger a 51 in span free flight glider although most people fit lightweight radio control. Quite simple to fit a small motor upfront too.

I bought a 2.3m FMS Fox e-glider recently after I wrote off my original version from Hobby King some years ago. The V1 needed quite a bit of fettling to get it right but my new V2 arrives sorted and is a brilliant flier. The wing platform on the Minimoa Frank is similar to the Bird of Time. But I have gone off topic and the mods will be after me!

Thanks, you’re right, it is a Hawker Tempest. In fairness it was rather early in the morning for me, even if I have my name down for one! The answer to your question Grumpy is at the end of Houch’s last post.

Hi Hooch. Have you looked at Ron Gray's VLOG on the Warbird Replica FW190? If not you may find it useful. I think the model is probably sold out as they are produced in batches but you never know. Richard is soon to bring out a Hawker Typhoon and the construction and building techniques are pretty much the same. You could put your name down for one of the kits for when they become available but watch Ron’s Videos in the meantime.

The HK vampire slopes really well too. Stuart did a HK video flying some of their ‘scale’ models from The Dragons Back in Hong Kong, including their Vampire. I have flown from this great site too but with my folding ‘suitcaseable’ Zagi. Avoid landing out though -snakes! I have sloped my Vampire in the UK, using the EDF occasionally for some spirited ‘strafing runs’ along the South Downs. Fun!

PM sent 👍👍

I don’t have a 3D printer, perhaps I should, but I thought the original foam cheater inlet didn’t look very efficient. I might try a louvred inlet made of light ply as an alternative since you have found your printed one to yeald good results.

I retired six years ago and what with two house moves and grandchildren, I still don’t have enough time! Good luck with your RM Aerobat V2 build, will it be a lecky conversion this time?

OK, so which one are you planning to build Nigel?

I actually thought of getting this model for my grandson when he is a little older as he is only five at the moment, although he seems to have great concentration when it comes to building anything - at the moment Lego! It is to be a joint Grandad/Grandson project! The VMC Me109 follows the same methodology as the Cub so I don’t think it will be much more difficult to put together. How much more difficult to fly depends on natural ability (spatial skills) and reactions, which in turn can be down to age, to some degree. If a model has a low wing loading, is properly balanced, trimmed and devoid of warps or other naughties, an aileron model can be as easy to fly as a RET one- sometimes easier. Just get someone experienced to test fly it once you have finished the build!

If I had that choice myself I would build the Mystic but I get the impression from your video Ron you have a leaning towards the Rascal?

Hi Hooch, whilst the Super 60 is an excellent model and a classic, take a look at The Vintage Model Company’s ‘Balsa Basics Cub.’ The 42in span model is CNC and the parts slot easily together before glueing. There is a full build video on YouTube which you might find helpful and avoid beginners mistakes. VMC can also supply a full electronics setup for this model which will save any guesswork. This includes the motor, electronic speed controller (ESC) propeller and servos. You will also need a radio control system (transmitter and receiver) which will need careful consideration, so I suggest you get plenty of advice before splurging the cash! Just build the model first. This is a three channel model (rudder, elevator and throttle), The VMC also do an ‘aileron wing’ as an alternative which has less dihedral and as the name suggests, ailerons! I suggest stick with the three channel version to start with as it will have more stability and hopefully easier to fly. There is a first flight video here too. Lastly join a club to help you on your model flying journey. Good luck.

Good answer Graham. I agree it is frustrating Kevin but like Graham said if someone had wanted to start building the Foka 4 last month they would have had only half a wing and half a fuselage which would have have been equally frustrating 😭. It is a big, complicated model so perhaps buying another plan or getting it copied is not too onerous a task in the circumstances.

One word, WOW!

I like your column Dave, keep up the good work. Neat looking flying wing with square section carbon spars and no D-box LE, your own creation presumably? Perhaps a future plan in the mag, hopefully? 😃 Likewise, I thought your little depron Debrayer Pelican in the March issue very cute. Would be nice to see a few depron designs appearing in the mag, especially a larger version of the Pelican you mentioned. Quick and cheap to build, would encourage others to have a go. I have built several flying wings including a couple of O.Ds. You can never have too many!

My JR9303 manual states the output is 750mW. The European (UK) max is 100mW. I believe this equates to a 2 to 3db difference in the power at the aerial as it is not a linear relationship but correct me if I am wrong. My JR 9303 transmitter was made in Japan although bought in the US. Strangely it has a CE mark on the back along with FCC for the US. I don’t know what the Tx power output limit is in Japan. I have used it for slope soaring in the US, UK, Japan and South Africa. Nowadays I tend to just use my XG11 in the UK. Both Txs have always worked perfectly and Ouse quality, shame they are not made any more.

Hi Mark, I can’t identify the model but I am sure someone will be along soon who can. Your glider conversion looks possible. As an alternative you could leave the servos where they are and cut a hole in the fuselage beneath the wing for the receiver, provided the control pushrods don’t get in the way. You could try Robotbirds for a suitable motor/ESC. Send some photos and a few details including weight and span. This motor as a suggestion? 4Max can probably suggest a suitable powertrain too. Good luck with your project. ps, does it really have a solid wing when the fuselage is so light?

The Leaf is quite a bit bigger than a Ford Focus in terms of internal volume but smaller than a Mondeo for sure. On a freezing day it's round-trip range drops to about 180 miles. With the rear seats down it will accommodate a 1.8m wing (6ft in old money) if the passenger seat is forward. There is quite a choice of EV cars on the market now but one of the things about the Leaf I like is the e-pedal. Switch it on and you only need to use the one pedal for driving. Press the accelerator, it accelerates, lift your foot off and it brakes. The more you take your foot off, the faster it stops (it also brings on the brake lights too so the guy tail-gating you knows what you are doing!). I drove Swanage to Hazelmere and never touched the brake pedal once. It’s the regenerative braking that slows you down and gives you another 15% of range, for free! 😁That is one of the reasons you rarely need replacement brake pads with an EV. My last service at a Nissan main dealer cost just £92.

I don’t really get the point of constant EV bashing articles in the popular press, except the fact that their motoring correspondents seem to be dyed in the wool petrol heads. Yes, EVs are different to ICs, get over it! Range can be an issue so that may well be a deal breaker depending on the type of driving you do. 7500miles annually is average for private motorists apparently (just over 20miles a day!). But that is no consolation when you make a trip of over a couple of hundred miles, so a recharge is in required. However my Leaf regularly takes me to Hazelmere or Worthing and back from Swanage, Dorset on one charge. Not bad for a car that is only good for ‘local trips to the shops’ according to my friends. Admittedly it is a not so practical in the winter, so I then top up from a 13A socket in the garage of my daughter’s or mother-in-law’s house for a few hours. Battery range with the leaf was only 70 miles when they came out 11 years ago, more like 230 now. Batteries have improved a lot and will no doubt continue to do so. My leaf has done 30k miles and the tyres are still looking good. My new Nissan Leaf Tekna cost the same as a top of range Ford Focus in 2021, admittedly with a gov. subsidy. I just like the way it drives and it suits me, I am no eco warrior that is for sure.

Wing finished with servos etc. Fuselage, a way to go yet but most parts made.

Nice to hear it is a good-un Jonathan, what flying prop will you fit? I have an un-run OS 30 FS too. After a decade long break I am finally fitting it in my as yet unfinished Peter Miller’s Ally Cat. 🐈‍⬛

My recently delivered FMS Fox (2.3m) foamy just requires the Rx to be plugged in and programmed before I can fly it, so that will make me a ‘model flyer’. The Chilly Breeze I am currently building from last months RCM&E free plan however, makes me an ‘aeromodeller’ perhaps? You are right; as long as we enjoy the activity, what does it matter what we choose to call it?

Returning to the OP, I think proximity to a suitable slope and one’s fitness has a big influence on how ideal RC slope soaring is to a beginner. I was lucky in that I was living in Fife with an abundance of hills on my doorstep when a friend and work colleague gave me a magazine plan for a Rivington Hawk. I liked the design but I can’t think of a more unsuitable trainer, being small, slippery with no natural stability! Eventually when I had it set up properly the penny finally dropped and I was able to cruise it up and down the slope to my hearts content, by which time the model was mostly epoxy held together with a little crushed balsa! The morale here is to start with a suitable model and I can think of no better choice than a Wild Thing for the slope as it is pretty much indestructible, being made of EPP. Incidentally, I bought a Zagi flying wing in the US, back in the day and modded it so that the wings were slotted together with carbon fibre tubes. Velcro kept them together as were the wingtip fins. Secreted in my suitcase my Zagi accompanied me on my travels around the world, sometimes flown in exotic locations including, Hong Kong, the US and Japan. Try doing that with your club trainer 🤣

I don’t know about the best way to start in this hobby but slope soaring was how I did it many years ago and am hooked on it to this day.