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Tim Kearsley

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Tim Kearsley last won the day on November 2 2021

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  1. Tesla state that if you choose to have faults repaired at a non-Tesla centre then future problems may not be covered under warranty. Interestingly, they also say that warranty is not affected if you don't have any servicing done, but then they also don't recommend any routine servicing!
  2. Everyone's criteria in buying a car, electric or IC, will be different I suppose. What made me choose electric was the sheer ease of driving - no gearbox, no chance of stalling, instant torque etc - and the running cost. The reason I chose the Tesla was: 1) Performance - 0 to 60 in 3.2 seconds is quite startling. And it does it without fuss or noise. 2) Charging infrastructure - Tesla's superchargers are ultra-reliable, fast and becoming more widespread by the month 3) OTA updates which bring new features on an ongoing basis. (and sometimes break things!) 4) Range - realistically, around 270 miles, but obviously depends on many factors On the downside, Tesla's quality control is abysmal. I was lucky and had no issues but stories of badly aligned body panels, water-filled lights etc in brand new cars are not unusual. Also, if you bought a Tesla thinking it would soon be driving itself, forget it. Elon's promises and predictions are utterly worthless and anything resembling self-driving, in the UK at least, are years if not decades away. Running costs: 1) Road tax - £0 2) Routine servicing - no routine maintenance indicated by Tesla but obviously brakes need an occasional check, plus A/C regas. 3) Fuel - approx 1.5p per mile 4) Insurance - £310 at last renewal, but I am ancient! My largest model is a Hangar 9 Spitfire, at about 82 inch wingspan, and that fits in the car without issue.
  3. Just checked back through our paperwork and the panels we had installed in January have a 15-year product warranty and 25-year performance warranty.
  4. I think this is misleading to be fair. Yes, you'll have ~£20k in the bank, but you will also have paid out 10 years of fuel cost. Also, you've not taken any account of inflation. What will your £20k be worth in 10 years' time? Do you really think these price rises we're seeing will be temporary? Solar panels will continue to generate power long past 10 years, so the savings continue to accumulate. Thanks for the info on the investment BTW. As you say, what suits one doesn't suit another. For me, tying money up for five years with capital at risk and not covered by the FSCS isn't what I want to do. It's a good return though! Any "safe" investments don't keep up with inflation. P.S. My calculation gives £10,000 at 10 years 7% compound as £19,671 but I could be wrong! Edit - Apologies - just realised you're spot on if interest is paid monthly!
  5. Well a PV system certainly isn't expired after 10 years. Also, I'd really be interested to know where I can invest my money and get 7% return without - to me - unacceptable risk.
  6. On the subject of brake dust, most electric vehicles incorporate regenerative braking, which, as you lift your foot off the accelerator, turns the electric motors into generators, putting some charge back into the battery and, as a by-product, applying a braking force to the car. In day-to-day driving I hardly ever use the brakes in the Tesla. In fact I make a point of doing so occasionally to prevent undue corrosion on the brake disc surfaces. Obviously, in an emergency situation or if your driving style is to race up to a junction and brake hard then you will need to apply the brakes but otherwise they are little used. You soon get used to so-called "one-pedal" driving.
  7. Well we've just installed a 4kW PV array, inverter and 5 kWh battery for under £10k. The charger cost around £500. Would you like to tell us where your figure of £30k comes from or was it plucked out of thin air? I really wish we could stick to something vaguely factual.
  8. I started out with the same idea, as we have two EV. However, at the moment we get a four hour window with Octopus during which electricity costs us 5p/kWh (0030 to 0430). We charge the cars in this window. If we generate excess electricity during the day Octopus pay us 4.1p/kWh. So the difference of 0.9p/kWh makes it hardly worth the effort of linking up the granny charger for a few hours. Our Pod Point charger isn't intelligent in the way that a Zappi charger is so its a manual process for us to manage EV charging. Our deal with Octopus is up for renewal in October and the 5p/kWh rate will certainly increase. That will likely make hooking up the charger worthwhile.
  9. We had a GivEnergy system installed in January this year @MattyB, 11 panels, 3.6kW hybrid inverter and 5.2kWh battery. The system has performed faultlessly so far and output peaks at about 3.5kW up to yet. The panels all face SW. They improved the monitoring app recently so that it polls the system locally and updates at 10 second intervals. I think I should have bought a larger battery but otherwise very satisfied. We rarely suffer power outages here so haven't missed the ability to "island" and power the house during an outage.
  10. Seeing V8 Jags getting smaller in my rear view mirror keeps a smile on my face!
  11. It will be interesting to see how the taxation works. You can't really tax the "fuel" we put in electric cars because there are plenty of EV users who charge their car via a 13A socket, so how would you know it was a car being charged rather than, say, an electric heater? You can of course increase the cost of public chargers, but, again, many EV users rarely charge other than at home. One suggestion is that there will be a tax imposed per mile, levied on the basis of vehicle weight (heavier causes more road damage) and tail-pipe emissions. On that basis EVs would gain as they're zero emission but lose as they are generally fairly heavy I presume, due to battery.
  12. I agree that it's all too easy to get hung up on telemetry. Some is very useful, such as consumed mAh, if you fly electric. With the advent of the ACCESS protocol FrSky have made available the VFR (Valid Frame Rate) metric. I believe it equates roughly to a measure of link quality. It's why I am considering configuring a warning if both RSSI and VFR drop below a certain level - it might be a better way of identifying a real low signal scenario. That said, I can't remember ever having signal problems in about 16 years of RC flying!
  13. Got you now Steve!
  14. Must be Audi or Jag Steve?
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