Glenn Philbrick
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Everything posted by Glenn Philbrick
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Extending leads - battery or ESC?
Glenn Philbrick replied to ericrw's topic in General Electric Flight Chat
See here Hi Guys. I now have a pack of capacitors from Farnell as recommended in the post on RC groups and RCMF these are the ones in the link above. In the link on RC groups that has very good description of how to mount the capacitors it says that they have a polarity, mine have no polarity markings on them, one lead is longer than the other so I am stuck. Any help would be good. Thanks, Glenn Edited By Steve Hargreaves - Moderator on 19/04/2012 15:44:42 -
Extending leads - battery or ESC?
Glenn Philbrick replied to ericrw's topic in General Electric Flight Chat
Having looked at the last post from John and reading the link I think it might be prudent for me to fit these extra capacitors as it looks very easy to do and hopefully will remove the possiblity of loosing the model. So now where can these capacitors be bought from, how manu should I add for sometihng like a 12" increase in lead length. Thanks, Glenn -
Extending leads - battery or ESC?
Glenn Philbrick replied to ericrw's topic in General Electric Flight Chat
Now that we are all perfectly confused, about time we had some practical experiance. I have built and flown a Mossie and Lancaster both of which had the leads to the ESC extended. In the case of the Lanc the outer motors by about 10". I have experianced no problems whatso ever. Maybe I'm just lucky but I doubt it. Good luck. Sometimes too much knowledge is dangerous!! -
Thanks for the reply. acording to the instructions the C of G should be 90mm back from the leading edge of the radiators as it was on my old one, I've now added more lead up front and moved the C of G to 83mm. Flying tomorrow so should know then if it is better.
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Thanks Phil. I think you may be onto something . Thinking about it landing from the glide exhibits the same effect so that would rule out thrust line. The flight batteries are very well secured. I think I will try some more lead up front and move the C of G some more. Thanks
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Thanks for replies so far, John to answer your question same radio differant Rx as previous one was the cause of the demise of the first mossie. Thanks, Glenn
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I have a frustrating problem. I have recently completed my second Cloud models Mosquito and cannot get it to fly smoothly. It was built in the same way as the first which was brilliant to fly hence the second. I'm using the same power train, the C of G is correct and I've even tried moving it forward by 5mm, the thrust line of the motors is level with the wing and both wing and tailplane are also level. The symptoms are that the model is very sensitive to elevator, the slightest movement has it balloning upwards, I have 40% expo and less than 5mm movement but still it flys in a series of undulations and I cannot trust it to fly too low as I am constanly fighting it to keep it level. Has anybody any pearls of wisdom? My only thoughts are to move the Cof G even further forwards Thanks
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Attached are a couple of recent pics of the progress of my Lanc. As you can see I have elected to fit a rudder folowing suggestions from other builders. I have also lengthened the fusalage nose by 1/2" and cut the nose cowl down to make it fit better, also the cockpit moulding now will fit better.The next stage will be to assemble it completely to see where the Cof G is so that I can then determind what size batteries will balnce the model without further balast if poss.
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I am about to prepare a wiring loom for my Lancaster and have a few questions. Each motor is rated to give about 200 watts at 20amps. Is it better to use 16swg twisted or 1.5mm single wiring for the power to the ESC's? Is a Deans connector capable of taking the full 80amps? I intend to use at least two 3s battery packs with a capacity of 4000 to 6000maH depending on where the C of G turns out and how much weight I need to balance it, at present its weight is about 5.5lbs with 3x 3s 2200 packs. I am thinking of mixing the inner and outer motors for different throttle settings, is there preferance to slow the innner or outer pair or is it better to slow all four down together? In the wing there are two cutouts for the cables should I run the power cables together or each in their own slot to reduce any magnetic effects? Thanks. Glenn
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I'm back on building the lanc now, after having to build another Mossie which became terminal. I'll post some pics next week. I am starting to think about the wiring loom so that I can complete the wings. Each motor is expected to pull about 200w at around 20amps, I have either 16swg twisted or 1.5mm single wire for the power cables, as you can see there are two slots in the wing, if I put one wire down each does that increase the magnetic effect or reduce it? Which of these cables is best to handle the full 80amps and are Deans connectors OK for this rating? I will only use Deans to connec t the battery the conection to the ESC will be 3.5mm bullets Once the model get airborn I was thinking of mixing the inner and outer motors so I could slow one pair down, which pair is best outer or inner? I put everything on the scales and it came out at 5.5lbs with 3 x 2200 3cell lipos so I still hopefull that I can get it in under 6lbs finished. Thanks Glenn
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Thanks for these replies. I am 2.4 so can have a bit more confidence.
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I am in the final throws of completing a Cloud Models Mossie, my second. The first was lost due to lack of radio control and because of the state of the crash I never got to the bottom of the cause. This time I thought I would cover all risks so intend to fit a small 3A UBEC to power the Rx, however on reading the instructions it states that "switch mode ubec may cause interference to the Rx so install at least 5cms away from Rx", it comes with a flux ring already fitted onto the lead. Have I just swapped one risk for another? Thanks. Glenn
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Does anybody make a multi chargers similar to the wall chargers to charge up to 6, 6v rx packs at a time? At present I am using the old 4.8 wall chargers and they appear to charge the packs up alright when checked but take quite a time. Thanks.
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Hi Chris, I am interested to hear your experiance with contra rotating props. I built a Mossie and could not detect any differance except that if a prop broke on landing it was always the pusher, so I gave up and now both props rotate in the same direction. My interest however is that I am now building a Lanc and again the thought of direction is worth thinking about, I can see that four props all running in the same direction may have some influence. What are your thoughts. Regards, Glenn
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I am looking for some constructive assistance. I have just lost my second model to what I think is a brown out. In both cases I cannot check to see if any lights are flashing as in the crash power has become disconnected. The first model was IC with a separate battery for the Rx and only has four servos the Rx was an AR6200, the second was electric with BEC and an AR500 and only three small servos. Both models had been flown many times before and where at least a year old. Initially they flew using a DX6i but recently I bought a DX8 and this is the transmitter I was using when both crashed. Neither model was at extreme range and both RXs powered up and range checked when powered up on the ground following the crash. Neither model showed any tendancy to glitch. I am about to send the tranny and RXs back to horizon to check but my confidence has been badly dented. The tranny is not among those listed as having any problems. I assume a brown out is caused by low voltage not poor reception if so would running 6 volts give me more of a safety margin? Thanks, Glenn
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Finally got round to completing the two inner nacelles. I've been diverterted by too many repairs to other models, however flying today cancelled due to rain. You can see I hope why I had to modify them to fit the retracts which so far work very well, I will leave the legs as single wires untill the end to see how much this is going to weigh and to make sure I've got ground clearance.I also made the whole nacelle easily removable so that I ca nget to the motor,retracts without to much bother. I'm quite pleased with it so far. I will use more of the kit parts for the outers, but will round them off to fit the moulded nose cowls. After talking to BRC They have recommended the 2217-6T which are rated at 200w with 8 x 3 three blade props so this is what I will use. I had a quick look at the fusalage bits and not impressed at how badly they fit, so will have to think about how to make the most of this.
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Attached are a couple of pics of the nacelle, retracts and mouldings that I have built for my Lanc. I understand that the Priory model is just a look alike but I want to try these retracts so have built these to make it look slightly more scale like. I also intend to have the rudders work and a stearable tail wheel. The retracts I bought off E bay, I went for the larger size as the smaller units I thought would be just at the top end of their weight capability. They are supposed to be able to take up to 4.7kg, looking at the construction I doubt this but my target weight is under 3kgs and I think they will be able to cope with that. Glenn
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