Alan Gorham_

But SLEC and Balsa Cabin do get balsa lumber and saw it down into sheet, strip etc and grade it. So they are in control of the stuff at the top of the supply chain in this country and I've bought wood online from both and am always happy with their wood selection and grading.

It's a Flair Hannibal which is a 1.5 sized Magnatilla.

As I said in another thread, only hard grade of most sizes of sheet has been available since March. This is surely going to be the norm from now on, unless dedicated supply lines can be put in place. We will always be at the bottom of the queue for wood compared to industrial customers.

Pretty pointless having a "balsa stand" at the moment. Both Slec and Balsa Cabin have been out of stock of most grades of sheet balsa since around March.

ISTR that it's good practise to fit a wooden prop to an engine with a pressed-together crankshaft and web such as the Zenoah. the thinking is that if you nose over and catch the prop, then a wooden prop will break before the crank moves.

At least some of us were listening then!

There will be a submission to Guinness after the attempt is ratified by the FAI as I understood on the Zoom call.

Sarik DO list a canopy for the model you refer to. Assuming the plan in RC1776 by Cyril Murfitt (I assume it must be, as they only list one 1:3.5 scale Jodel Robin and it's this one!). The Canopy is available under the link below, but if you wish to get confirmation, then why not ring the number on Sarik's website and ask them? https://www.sarikhobbies.com/product/robin-canopy-sheet/ I am slightly concerned by the fact that it's listed as a sheet. I hope that doesn't mean it's just sufficient clear plastic sheet to make a canopy from. But surely worth a 2 minute phonecall to check?

The fix was to use an OS 7D carb as used on the 90FSR or 1.08FSR. However they are rare and expensive these days.

I think I just said that...

There is a degree of rarity to the item in the advert. It's not just an old Laser (which I suspect may actually be a 75), but the minimal magneto conversion that is fitted is definitely rare and sought after by some. It's up to any individual as whether they want to pay the stated price to fill the gap in their collection.

Some pics... First the O&R 23 Next the Herikmer Bantam Finally the Frog 175. Great fun running them and the smell is very nostalgic.

I have several working vintage ignition engines. 3 Ohlson & Rice 23s, a Herkimer Bantam 19 and a Frog 175. I would doubt that your engine is gummed with castor unless it has been run on glow fuel with a glow plug. Not uncommon for old sparkers once the ignition bits get knackered! A modern mix for "gas" fuel is a light naptha based spirit such as Coleman's lamp fuel and SAE50 oil (used in Harley Davisons IIRC!) mixed at 3:1 ratio. I certainly get good results with that fuel. I can recommend Woody's Engines in the USA as a source for genuine ignition parts such as coils and reproduction replacement spare parts. Still run by Woody Bartelt's family and has a wide range of parts. https://www.woodysengines.com/ One thing I would say is almost a necessity is a transistor based drive circuit for the ignition coil to reduce the amount of current that flows through the ignition points. It makes for much more reliable starting and running. Search Google for TIM 6 ignition circuit. I use an older version of this design.

Dirk's model isn't a Panther. It's a McDonnell Banshee.

No we don't which was what I was getting at.

And Gas Turbine powered models?

Are you standing outside in open air when getting this reading or indoors especially in a room lit by fluorescent tubes?

Definitely not a Tiger Moth as the wings don't sweep back.

No you are wrong I'm afraid! ASP did make a 70 size four stroke. It did come later than the 65 size I seem to recall. Just Engines still list spares for it.

Southern Modelcraft use ML70 in their non-castor based fuels too.

Not sure that is quite what the letter from the BMFA Chairman says.....He does say that he has enquired about other airfields, which are presumably RAF owned, since he is ex-RAF and maintains links with the RAF.

https://www.overlander.co.uk/escs/standard/xp2-6a-brushless-speed-controller.html

I think the DLE manual suggests using a petroleum (ie mineral) based oil for break in rather than synthetic.

Enough of a signal to get on this forum???

He was actually enquiring about replacement parts for an ARTF Meteor kit, not details of the fullsize. You often ask question on this forum without any evidence of you having used the vast resources of the internet to do a bit of prior research. People on here are extremely helpful, but if you just demand info from them, it's a bit of a one-way street.