Alan Gorham_

Except its not a Tucano!

Actually it isn't a debate. There is a clear timeline where the 109 was initially manufactured by Bayerische Flugzeuge Werke and RLM system of nomenclature required the model number to be prefixed the the two letter code representing the manufacturer. Hence Bf == Bayerische Flugzeuge. The BFW company became Messerschmitt AG in 1938 and hence the manufacturer code was subsequently changed to Me.

Yes I got a confirmation immediately.

Traplet might appear to have an Australian web presence but the website is an artifact from before Traplet went into liquidation. If you visit the site a pop-up appears saying that the domain name needs registering. IE it will expire and disappear soon. Remember that Traplets plans service was continued by Sarik Hobbies as Traplet went into liquidation in 2017.

FYI remote ID does not rely on mobile phone cells. It is a short range link intended to allow either broadcast or serve the ID upon enquiry. The Spektrum SkyID referenced earlier in this thread uses Bluetooth, while some of the devices sold in France use a flavour of WiFi.

If I were you I'd visit the Ripmax website and read the Trading Update statement and discover exactly how they are trading.

Please Lord let this thread not develop into a one man campaign to have a manufacturer recall for all Force engines...

The plan is still commercially available from Sarik Hobbies. As is typical with lots of the old MA/AM plans passed down to Sarik, they have listed the plan with a photo of a Fw190a (ie an error!). However, the plan number FSP395 and the description do refer to the aircraft you are interested in. https://www.sarikhobbies.com/product/fsp395-boeing-xl-15/

But reading your original post it makes no mention of sealing the bare wood. If you painted over that then you would end up with a lead sled as the wood soaks up repeated coats of paint. It is perfectly possible to glass a small model and not add excessive weight, but it does require care and technique. Again, before you consider the paint system you wish to use, you should think about your prior experience with finishing off a wood model. Rather than leaving it open to other people to guess, why don't you tell us what experience and preferences you have in finishing models and then maybe you will then get better suggestions relating to actually painting the model... PS... Sealing the wood isn't optional!

Before worrying about paint, if you are starting from bare sanded wood, I'd think hard about how you will seal and consolidate the surface. Methods could include: tissue and dope, tissue and WBPU, glass cloth and epoxy resin, glass cloth and WBPU, brown paper and PVA, silver coloured iron-on film that is then keyed ready for paint, or iron-on fabric eg Oratex. If you don't use anything at all, then prepare to be disappointed in any paint finish you put on..

I had for many years a Flair Cub which had the 40 four stroke secured by wood screws into Beech bearers. It was feasibly the only way the engine could have been secured due the design and build sequence of the cowl. Pilot drilling the holes into the bearers with the right size drill that left enough meat for the screws to cut their own thread was the key and it worked well for many years.

It's a Great Lakes Sport Trainer. I dimly remember Gordon Whitehead who has designed and built models of several aerobatic bipes did one.

The Pete Neate DH2 plan is still available commercially from Sarik Hobbies. https://www.sarikhobbies.com/product/d-h-2-model-aircraft-plan-rc1245/ Note that Sarik do not accept postage stamps as payment for plans.

Yes indeed you are correct. The only reason I started to leave out the crosslinker was that several very well respected scale modellers on the now defunct RCMF forum showed that good results were possible without the crosslinker. Some of my models painted in WBC are now approaching 15 years old and there has been no deterioration of the paint finish. YMMV. I am perfectly happy to not use it.

You must have a funny sense of smell as Tamiya acrylics smell very strongly of spirit to me. Good paints, but very different in characteristics to those under discussion here

Really the crosslinker use isn't critical. It's hardly a hassle to put a few drops in, nor to leave them out if you don't need fuel resistance. In any case the later formulas didn't use a crosslinker at all. It's interesting how many people have reported issues with having to thin the paint to get through an airbrush. As I've said, I always put it through a spraygun which has a much bigger nozzle. Phil Clark used to include an info sheet with every tin that recommend a spraygun or an HVLP gun due to the high pigment nature of the paint. Is this a classic case of rtfm?

This paint is nowhere comparable to Tamiya acrylic. It's definitely not a solvent based acrylic. If you haven't actually used it or seen it then I'm afraid you are just guessing at its properties. I've used it for over 20 years in its original formulation and so am offering real world feedback. One thing I did forget to say is that when I paint electric models or gliders with WBC then I don't add the few drops of crosslinker that the original formula had. There is a misconception that the crosslinker was a catalyst, but it isn't, it just helps the paint to become more fuel resistant.

I think the labelling is standard for any kind of paint/glue/solvent sold in the USA. It really is very benign stuff to use. Because the pigment is dense, if you spray it through a reasonably large nozzle on your gun, then there are no clouds of spray vapour that sometimes occur with thinner, solvent based paint. It is a joy to thin with water and wash up with water, but I will confess that I do give the gun one last wash out with celly thinners before putting it away to clear out any last remnants of WBC.

This thread is posted in the Scale and Semi Scale kits section of the forum, so the implication is that the original poster is interested in building from a kit and not from a plan though...

Of course the Balsacraft Grumman Bearcat is still available from SLEC. Not bad value at today's prices! https://www.slecuk.com/grumman-bearcat

And have you ever painted with the paints under discussion in this thread?

This thread is about WarbirdColors brand paints though...

So, not painted using WarbirdColors then? Pretty sure Warbirds paint isn't polyurethane.

All masked. I can't do freehand camo very well.

As I said, I don't use an airbrush to paint large areas. It would take too long to get good coverage anyway, but the high pigment content of Warbirds is better suited to a spraygun.