Alan Gorham_

Absolutely not. It's the individual's responsibility and not the club officials.

Sarik offer the old Complete a Pac Skyraider which I guess was designed for an old .61 2 stroke. Should be amply powered by an 80 4 stroke. they also offer cowls and canopies, but as it's an old design I guess you might have to noodle out any required retract fitting. https://www.sarikhobbies.com/product/douglas-skyraider-2/

But then it sounds like the manual YOU refer to in your original post (CG 75mm back you quoted) is NOT the correct manual for the model you have. It would perhaps help others to answer your query on where the CG should be if you post a photo of your actual model so that we can locate the correct manual with the correct CG position or else we are all guessing!

The OP states they have the manual and it gives CG as 75mm from LE of wing at root. Denis Watkins also posted a screen shot of a manual showing the same thing. It looks to be taken from the manual of the Seagull model with the part number SEA-199N as per the attachment. I wonder if the OP actually has this model as they seem to have bought it used (references to servos already fitted..). Either it's not the model in the manual or something else is amiss... 7645719.pdf

The OP says his model is a 300L...

It's pretty easy to tell as the 300S is single seat and the 300L is two seat in tandem.

Is it possible that one of you is talking about the Extra 300S and the other about the 300L? Both variants have been sold by Seagull.

NOTAM is "notice to Airmen" (politically incorrect pronoun notwithstanding). For the purposes of the Air Navigation Order model pilots are also airmen - so we have always been individually responsible for checking any NOTAMs before flight. It's not up to your committee, just as it isn't up to the committee to range check your model or ensure the failsafe is set correctly before flying. Think about it...some flyers aren't in clubs so they are on their own. Also, if you think electronic conspicuity for models isn't on the horizon in the UK, then you might be in for an unpleasant surprise if/when it becomes technically simple/cheap...

Andy obviously has accidentally omitted the word "not", as you point out. The statement is contradictory to the previous one about operator's responsibility for flight safety otherwise.

Great result Chris and Byron! Totally captures the classic lines and the water handling in the video looked good.

The simplest way to free off and dismantle an engine that is gummed up with castor oil is to warm it in the oven as the hardened castor will soften and screws and bolts will move out easily. I'd not let any kind of impact driver near the fastenings on a model engine.

It's because he can't get any balsa to make new parts at the moment.

Tx switches are commonly just soldered to a small daughter PCB that is just bigger than the switch footprint. A cable harness then link the switch PCB to the main board. No need to heatsink such a PCB.

Mike once diagnosed and replaced an output driver logic buffer chip in my Hitec Tx. The fault was caused by me momentarily plugging the Tx battery pack in reverse polarity. His labour and parts charges were reasonable and cheaper than a replacement 2nd hand Tx. The repair has been perfect for the last 9 years, so I'd recommend him.

You don't have to throw money at Lipos. Just measure the battery voltage as two posters have suggested. I'd rather check the voltage before throwing money at changing bearings.

35c rated batteries are rather low for an EDF application which I am assuming a "Viper" is? It's likely you killed the packs and their internal resistance is on the way up, leading to the loss of performance. As above, if you check the pack voltages at high throttle settings, you will see the voltage collapsing if the packs are damaged/old.

J Perkins are the Hitec distributors. It's entirely possible that they farm out servicing and repair work to Mike at model radio workshop rather than doing it in-house.

Pretty sure OS won't have used a BA thread!

That's exactly what I would have done too - I have done it on several occasions in fact. But it's easy to say that with hindsight.

Surely it is perfectly possible to balance the Limbo dancer with a 3s pack and the rest of the weight made up from ballast to equal the weight of a 4s pack? You just then need to choose a suitable motor and prop combination to suit the 3s voltage. You could always retain an Rx Nimh battery pack as useful ballast.

There was a thread about about foam cutters recently. IiRC Billkits and Cloud Models are some of the last chaps standing. You may find making your own slightly more frustrating unless you have existing stocks of balsa or veneer!

I was obviously thinking about "Bring me the head of Alfredo Garcia" while typing. My mistake!

I would think that your best way of getting more information would be to buy a used copy of the January 2002 RCM&E, as you will get the build article. My first port of call to buy old magazines is "Magazine Exchange" who list the January 2002 issue of RCM&E, but currently do not have it for sale. They do have a contents list for the magazine, which lists the designer of the model as Alfredo Dotti. https://www.magazineexchange.co.uk/cw/rcm-e-magazine-january-2002-issue.html

Totally understood Andy. There's a fair few reports for you to get through if there's one from every club. Will enjoy reading them once done. Thanks.

@Simon Vaitkevicius 1 Are all the reports from individual clubs going to be published? I realise that will mean a lot of work, but it would be lovely to see them all in one place. I can see that one report from North Leeds Model Flying Club has been posted here: https://100.bmfa.org/map