Trevor Crook

Indeed, worth checking. It's only 10 minute's work to cut out correct replacements if they are wrong, but worth knowing about in advance! I'd held off starting this model in the hope that Sarik would produce a wood pack, but gave up after a few months had passed. In fact, I've found cutting out all the parts quite satisfying (and much cheaper of course). It doesn't say whether the full pack comes with a cockpit moulding, that was the trickiest part of the build so far and I would have gladly paid for one. I'm a fair way through the first wing panel now, I'll post some pics when I've built as far as the modification for flaps.

I've used Plastikote spray paints and lacquers on several models, with great success. They don't attack foam, but as I only fly electric models I have no idea if they are fuel proof- I suspect not.

Yes, I've downloaded that successfully thanks Peter.

No problem Peter, it's not as if the plan cost me anything! As I said above, just flagged it to help others. All is going well otherwise.

No, if I slot the spar in, the front of the ribs sit back from the line of the l.e. and the rear of the ribs overhang the t.e. The spar slots are too far forward by differing amounts in just these 3 ribs. It only took 10 minutes to cut some new ribs and I cut the spar slots by putting the ribs over the part constructed wing. Not a huge deal, but I thought I would flag it up for anyone else doing the build.

Possible drawing error alert! I don't think I've done anything wrong, but the spar slots in ribs 7, 8 and 9 seem mis-aligned

Yes, I can imagine that would be strong Peter. One little discovery I made along the way is that UHU Por will clean off of acetate by gently rubbing with a rag damped with meths. Meths is quite a mild cleaner an doesn't attack the acetate. On another aspect, I only noticed a few days ago that the pictures of your model, and those of the full size, show a small fairing at the bottom of the fin l.e. This isn't on the plan. No matter, the fairing on the prototype looks like it was added, ie it isn't blended in, so it will be easy enough for me to add once the tail feathers are glued to the fus.

I've now tackled the bit I was dreading - canopy glazing. I used birch ply for the three hoops, as lite ply seemed a bit fragile. I also let in 1/16x1/4 ply strips running horizontally where the horizontal scale frame runs. Finally, I faced the front of the front hoop and rear of the back one with 1/8 balsa, then shaped the edge to match the angle of the acetate screens, for extra glue area. I made paper templates, then glued on the acetate pieces with UHU Por, with a few screws to hold the bottom in. External framing was added with insulation tape. I've nearly finished cutting out the ribs, so wing construction will start soon.

Thanks Peter. Just got the cockpit to do, then I'll start on the wing. I've decided to give myself some more work by fitting flaps, as one of the photos I found online shows them deployed. I know it won't really need them, but it will add a bit more interest to the flying experience. That photo also shows the checkerboard fin, so I'll have to replicate that for authenticity! The checkers seem to have been taken off when it got to the museum.

Just thought I would show the progress on mine so far. Supposed to be a winter project, but I started early! Haven't started the wing yet, it will take me through the winter. I have a 4s setup ready to put in it, my 4s 2200s have similar storage to a 3s 3000, so if I prop it right performance and duration should be fine. The motor is a bit long to fit in the plan cowl, so I moved the firewall back (and resized it accordingly) and made the cowl longer. I'll post any significant progress over the coming months. Is anyone else building one?

I've got the 56" Tucano, built from a part kit bought at a club sale some years ago. A very good flier with with my 4s 3000 leccy setup. I get about 7 minutes duration, which is OK for me. Its a bit nose heavy, which eliminates accidental tip stalls, and it lands a treat with the flaps. I've got an album of pictures, but no idea how to attach them now the website has changed! I also had the piston Provost back in the day, 4 stroke powered. It flew OK, but was a bit tip stally so I sold it before the inevitable happened!

Thanks Matty, I did glance at the screen adjustment instructions for the NX, but didn't read it properly! Didn't realise it could be permanently on, but don't know how long the battery would last. I think I'll leave it be for now, I can set the audio to tell me most of what I need, and hit a button if I need to see the screen.

Peter, the AR410 rx's I've got give at least as much range on a ground test as the standard receivers. They also have basic telemetry that feeds back signal strength, fades etc. I would hesitate to use them on a larger model as there is generally more lumps of metal, batteries etc. for the antennae to "hide" behind. That's why I like the way Spektrum give the option of satellite receivers, or those with one long antenna to give good diversity. One small downside of the NX8 compared with my old DX8 is the high resolution colour screen on the NX dims after about 30s to save power, so is difficult to see if you glance down while flying. You can bring it back to life by hitting one of the buttons, and I set up appropriate voice announcements so I don't really need to look at the screen. The battery on the NX6 and 8 is a single cell 2000mAh lithium ion, which runs it for at least 4 or 5 hours. The NX10 uses a 2 cell setup. Can't think of anything else to say, but please ask if you want to know anything more specific, and I'll do my best to answer. The NX6 and 8 run off a single 18650 size 2000mAh lithium ion battery, which runs it for

Peter, I have had a DX8 Gen1 for some years now, and it has performed faultlessly, along with about a dozen assorted recievers. It's an early one, so works with DSM2 as well as DSMX. As said by others, later sets are DSMX only. I wanted to do some training, so this year I bought an NX8 to take advantage of the wireless trainer which the DX8 doesn't have. I also like the idea of voice annunciation to report telemetry, confirm switch operation etc. So far, it has done everything I wanted and I am very pleased with it. The wireless trainer was easy to set up, using my DX8 as the student tranny. I've installed a couple of updates from the Spektrum website with no issues. I did it via my PC and USB cable, I haven't bothered setting up the wi-fi in the tx for updates. I haven't used any of the stored model templates as I don't have any of the bnf models in there. The NX8 has two antennae (one internal) which should give excellent signal coverage. Another Spektrum feature I like is Modelmatch, which makes it virtually impossible to fly with the wrong model memory selected. Regarding price, it's reasonable value for the features you get, although in my opinion the styling doesn't make it look like a £300 plus transmitter. I consider Spektrum receivers to be reasonably priced, for small simple models the 4-channel antennaless ones have full range and only cost about £25. I use satellite receivers for bigger models though. In summary, I am a long term satisfied Spektrum user, and think the NX8 is a great bit of kit, hope this helps.

Yes, it seems terribly wasteful to throw away items that are repairable because it's not cost effective. Even worse is having to junk a perfectly good p.c. because Microsoft have stopped supporting the O.S.

I still think those tools are good value. We bought one for my father in law 2 Chrismases ago, it was £16.99 and is still working fine. Whilst I agree with Robert that spares should be made available, as the item was so cheap I would be pragmatic after 4 years and put up with using an alternative charging method if the tool itself still works.

Hi Robert. Is this the charger you are after? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254877155042

The important thing is you have found an explanation - we all make slip ups occasionally! It should cruise around very nicely on half throttle now.

Maurice, it looks like you've found the answer. The 7-8 minute duration that I get is in relatively calm conditions- I get no pleasure from fighting a strong wind with a slow flying biplane, if it's windy I take something else. The duration thing is quite subjective. Even when I used to fly i.c. I used to land after 7 or 8 minutes, just get bored I suppose! These days I typically take 3 models to a flying session for variety/backup.

Strange, mine flies for a comfortable 7-8 minutes on a 3s 4000 pack. I can't remember the exact spec of the motor, but I think it's around 900kV and pulls around 500W with an 11x7, which gives plenty of performance, and scale flying on about half throttle. It would be worth trying a 3s pack with your existing setup. I can't understand how your model appears to be pulling so much current that the batteries puff and discharge so quickly - they barely get warm with my setup.

I do the same with clear heatshrink, Brian. I have a couple of the antennaless AR410s, they are excellent. Much easier to bind withe a button, too.

HK don't seem to have much in the way of LiPos of that size at the moment. Rapid RC seem out of stock too. Overland do a 2200 3s 25c pack fitted with an XT60 for £16.99 if that's any use, although their website doesn't seem to indicate if they have stock.

Yes, many years ago I was the other side of the counter (part time) in the R/C business. Most customers were the usual decent modelling folk, but there were always a few who were, let's say, a challenge! It certainly affected how I approach a retailer when I have an issue.

Yep, used KLM to order online my Spektrum NX8 a couple of months ago, arrived within 2 days post free. So far I haven't experienced any "false stock" issues with various hobby suppliers, but if you are buying a pricey item and want it quickly, making a phone call first seems sound advice that I will follow next time.

Being lazy I've been waiting to see if Sarik are producing laser cut parts. Doesn't look like that's happening so I've just made copies of all the ribs and formers and started sticking them to wood! I got some orangey-yellow film from HK that looks just the right colour from studying pictures of the museum example.