WOETC (Rob)

I've built 3 DFs now (2x original size and 1 scaled up to 1.5 times) and glueing the upper longerons to the tub first is exactly what I did for each of them. Maybe its my "downunder" brain but it didnt occur to me to build them as separate units and then marry them up. Its the way to go as I didnt have any issues. Once the glue had dried, I glued ply doublers across the longeron to tub joint (on the inside) and then turned the assembly upside down so I could draw the longerons together over the plan in the normal way. BTW, I've put a cheap HK sound unit in the big one and its pretty cool. Cheers, Rob

Well, here they are Sorry about the shadow Cheers, Rob

Andrew, sorry about the mystery but it was quite late here and I'd locked up the workshop/hangar for the night when I read your post. As you've probably gathered, I made my nose detachable. It's held in place with small (6mm dia x 1mm thick) rare earth magnets (such as those specified by Lindsay to hold the bottom hatch in place).. These are available very cheaply on eBay (I think I paid about AU$7 for 100). Firstly, I made the nose/grill frame from 6mm balsa - slightly oversize. I then glued a number of the magnets to each corner and top centre of FC. Once dry, I pressed the balsa frame hard against the magnets in order to create impressions in the balsa at each magnet location. I then used a sharpened 6mm brass tube to cut blind holes just over 2mm deep (put a piece of masking tape on the tube at the correct depth). In most cases the core of balsa came out with the tube but you may have to dig them out a bit with a modelling knife. A second magnet is then glued into the holes (I generally wipe a face of the magnet on a piece of sandpaper and use medium CA glue and have never had one come off of any hatches I've made). Make sure you get the magnet polarity correct!!!!!!!! The magnets glued to FC act as dowels to key the nose ring exactly. Magnets are so strong that you need to prize the nose of carefully so as not to snap the balsa. I then sanded the nose ring to the correct profile whilst in place, glued some 3mm sq battens to support the grill flush with the rear and glued the grill in place (with a suitable cutout for the prop hub) with dabs of silicone. Sometime ago I spotted the grill material (300mmx300mm sheets perforated aluminium ) in the craft section of our local $2 shop (would that be a "£" shop over there?) so I bouht about a dozen packs. Hope its all clear. As you can see below, when finished you'd never know it wasn't a permanent fixture. Cheers, Rob

Thanks Lindsay - I maidened the large one last Sunday by the way. Plenty of power in the E-Flite Power 46 - able to cruise around nicely on about 1/3 throttle. Needed to add a heap of right aileron trim so I only flew it once. Tracked the problem down to 2deg of unintended wash in (I presume that's the opposite to wash out) on the right wing. I'd say I caused this when I was tightening up the SolarTex. Managed to twist it out so hope to give it a good wring out this weekend. Andrew - I definitely wanted to put a grill in but how to do so puzzled me for a long time until one day out of the blue I had an epiphany. It's all very simple and photos will reveal all. But for now its very late here in Sydney so will have to wait till the morning, wherupon I will reveal all. Just a clue, if you haven't already glued the nose block to FC, don't. Cheers, Rob

OK Andrew, I used PVC tubing of about 4.5mm dia on my original DF and 6mm on the larger 1.5 scale one. this type of tubing should by available from your LHS (at least it is here in Oz). Some time ago I also picked up a set of K&S bending springs (these are from the people that do all the brass and ali tubing in the hobby stores). Select the one that best fits inside your PVC tubing Gently heat the area you want to bend (careful, it doesn't take much). While still warm, quickly bend a smooth right angle and hold until it cools. It takes a bit of practice to avoid distorting around the bend but whilst still soft (or heat lightly again if necessary) you can normally roll any rough spots out between your fore-finger and thumb (gloves needed maybe)? In any case, bent pipes aren't always perfectly formed in the real world). Cut another piece long enough for the 2nd cylinder and using a round file profile the end so as it will butt up against the main pipe. Select another piece of tube (or dowel, brass, ali or whatever) that is a close internal fit and cut off a small length. This will provide a stud to strengthen the joint between the short section and the main pipe. Drill a pilot into the main pipe and then open it out to the diameter of the joining stud. A dab of epoxy and voila. repeat for as many cylinders as you require. A lick of paint - I used a mix of Humbrol gunmetal and copper and didn't stir them too much. My 1) original and 2) scaled up models. Still have some details to complete on the larger one - a hinge along the top of the litho-plate cowl, cut the axle stubs off, apply some colour to the prop (I use a broad brown permanent marker and find that drawing long strokes from hub to tip does a good rendition of woodgrain - see the 2nd to last photo). Hope this helps. Cheers, Rob