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Mike T

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Everything posted by Mike T

  1. Thanks NEIL! (Gawd knows where I got 'Ian' from - maybe the 'i' in 'iGull' fooled my synapses! ) Good old eBay, eh? Glad to hear you'll hopefully be back up and running soon. I can wait - given that I've done nothing with the parts I've bought off you so far! I'm surprised at the balsa shortage, though. I thought that supply issues had been largely resolved - SLEC and Balsa Cabin had plenty of all sizes at Weston Park, but I didn't buy any so can't speak to the quality. Judging by the parts I've received so far, I assume you are particular about what you feed into your machine?
  2. Is that certain Murat? If not I'll try the form PatMc linked
  3. I've been trying to get on Ian Gillies' ebay shop for the past few weeks, but it all seems dead. I've just tried contacting him via Ebay and got an error message. Does anyone know if he's packed it all in? Say it ain't so!
  4. Thanks John & Geoff If I'd planned it properly, I could have lined up the red flashes on the wing root and fus. a bit better This is my 3rd - the first 2 had foam wings and were quieter! The U/c was originally bought for another model, but it suits the Funfly so well that it's served on all three. It's starting to de-laminate now, but I can't find a matching replacement anywhere, so I will probably end up doing a DIY job using the original as a form.
  5. LOL! The reviews of the Amazon switches are mostly by Railway bods who've used them to control their points!
  6. My favourite 'hack' (a description which does it a dis-service). I think the updated wingtips are ugly - and the canopy has always been, so I did some mods...
  7. In the absence of a proper description, I suspect the 'momentary' switch from T9 is a single action - like a trainer switch. They don't look too pretty but there are these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mini-Momentary-Toggle-Switch-Miniature/dp/B00WZDJF9M
  8. Thanks, Rich - good to know!
  9. Question for @Richard Harrisif I may? I've enlarged my Panther plan by a modest 15% to make it easier for the fus. to take a .52 FS plus associated tankage. The structure will be as per original (no increase in section dimensions etc.) apart from subbing 1/8 birch ply for some sheet parts at the front for engine and u/c mounting. The question is, do I need to increase the blade chord or thickness, or can I get away with the original plan dimensions, albeit 10-15% longer?
  10. Helicopters leave me cold, but I do like me an autogyro. Go, as they say, figure. I don't get hung up on i.c vs. electric - my most frequently flown models are a WOT4 Foam-e (my 4th) and a Precedent/SLEC Funfly (3rd). And I can't agree that J60s are either 'meh' or limited in performance. Mine is over 20 years old, has an FS40 surpass up front and it loops, rolls, stall turns and flies inverted with ease. The rolling circle is a bit shabby, but that's probably me... The only planes I've felt really 'meh' about were both H9 ARTFs - a 1/4-scale Cub and a 1/3-scale Pitts. The Pitts was sold on and the Cub is a hangar queen which needs to go - no serious offer refused, pm me for pics and details
  11. I've just been meandering around YouTube on the telly, when this video popped up under recommendations and I re-discovered this thread! What progress please, Rich? I hope negotiations for a mag. plan are well underway!
  12. Anyone remember the old RCMF forum? Whenever issues like this cropped up, the answer was always "everything's fine here, the problem must be at your end!" PS - this post appeared almost instantaneously, so everything's fine here - the problem must be your end...
  13. Ken Willard 'CAVU' (enlarged) - 1986(ish) KK (Flair kit) Junior 60 - 2000(ish) DB 1/4 scale Pup - April 2006 As for the rest, well - 'all flesh is grass...'
  14. Ah! But what about the chips? Did you grow your own Maris Pipers? @Don Fry - got your message. Model Hobby Trade Federation. Equivalent to the Masons. They may not even exist anymore (I didn't check...)
  15. Further to Simon's point, the only perceivable benefit from UK purchases are QC and warranty support. With respect to all vendors, I suspect that none actually does any QC - the customer does that and any failures rely on the 'warranty support'... I suspect most below par packs are chucked or relegated to 'light duties'. There used to be a vendor in the UK who actually did sell incredibly cheap LiPo's and other electronics - Giant Cod*. An established UK model chain bought him out, renamed the business and shortly after closed it down. Such is the attitude of UK shops to competition from outside the MHTF cartel. BTW LHF - I don't know what device you used to post your 'justification' query, but I can pretty much guarantee it was made in China... * a vestige remains, in the form of rclife.co.uk
  16. Never been a fan of buying anything just to keep it in the box. That way lies madness. TBH if you don't pile your average well-made engine in, the typical usage most club flyers give them means they practically last forever.* Back to the particular engine - IIRC the really expensive bit was the ign. conversion, so the combination of nil/low running plus scarcity probably accounts for the ambitious asking price. And if you don't ask, you don't get... *assuming you run it properly
  17. Having read the previous two posts, I have to ask: At what point in the future does become
  18. Remove some of the fus. cross-members in the vicinity of the u/c. This should give you a bit of flex in the lower fus. sides and allow you to put the formers up inside the fus. at an angle then twist them into place. Goop it all up, re-install the cross-members and the job's a good 'un.
  19. Every plane I have of high value (or that I value highly) is still on 35MHz JR or Futaba gear. While this is primarily an instance of 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it', I also just have higher confidence in Japanese-branded radio gear. I use 2.4GHz FrSky modules and rxs for my less 'invested' aircraft.
  20. I'd buy one again tomorrow, Martin - if only Mason's could be persuaded to make and sell them! (Can't get that lovely Solartex blue, either... )
  21. Here's my Kestrel. Modified top decking to single cockpit type, evoking a '30's style racer. An oversize pilot helps it look 'compact'. Alas, it is no more. Aiming for a fast low pass for a cameraman in the 'outfield' and silhouetted in the late afternoon sun, I misjudged the distance I was out and dropped down on the wrong side of our boundary hedge. At full chat, the fus bored through while the wings hung up in the hawthorn! Much hilarity ensued...
  22. As an addendum, before binding with TCW, hold the parts together with small twists of same and do a quick 'tack solder'. Remove twists, file/clean up joints and then you can put the binding on neatly without the wires wobbling all over the place. Then slather flux and do the proper solder job.
  23. Put the bulkhead in first, then finagle the main u/c wire into position. Surgery may be required (followed by post-op reconstruction). Use thick copper wire (e.g. the earth wire from 5mm T&E) to bind in place using the holes you've drilled - twist it tight at the rear of the bulkhead. This is likely to be time consuming and frustrating. Epoxy up when done, then install the rear u/c wire. Bend a new one to fit if necessary. Bind and solder to the front legs 'in situ'. I got a hank of 24 or 26 swg tinned copper wire from ebay for this kind of thing. As usual with solder, make sure its all bright and clean before binding. When bound, I paint some plumbers flux on it (white stuff in a yellow tub) and then solder with a big, hot iron. Wire brush and wash off when done.
  24. This may seem a bit radical, but how about: https://aspenfuel.co.uk/contact/
  25. @Dickw - yes that works for me as well! And I note John and Andy's comments re Firefox...
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