Mike T

Nice. Reminds me of a GA Monospar

I don't own a Laser (never will...), that's why I qualified with an 'if' 🙂 Still, it would be an easier method for most other engines - except that the manufacturers of most other engines sensibly cast or engraved their engines capacities on them...

If you can remove the backplate, measuring the crank throw will give you your stroke and if you can get calipers on the piston skirt at BDC, that'll give you your bore. Pi x (bore/2)² x stroke gives you your swept volume.

Isn't it just! I'm going to knick that! 🙂 One question about the rubber band arrangements though. How effective are they in keeping the spoilers closed? From what I can see of the geometry, it seems as if they would exert very little or nor force at all to keep the spoiler closed. I think I'd have aligned the eyelets vertically, then rigged some monofil through them, attached to a horizontally tensioned band.

Our previous site had a tall hawthorn hedge at the western end. Landing in the late afternoons, the backdrop of a setting sun played havoc with depth perception. On more than one occasion, I've left a wing in the top of the hedge while the fuselage made it back to the field. 😁

I last bought it nearly 20 years ago from Pegasus Models in Norwich - and they were the only people who carried it then. It's joined the ranks of 'unobtainium' following events to which no blame can be attributed... Re alternatives, I understand 'Diacov' can be obtained with and without backing adhesive from several sources, including Sarik. No doubt someone with first hand experience will be along soon to confirm or correct suitability! 🙂

Not in my experience.

Hmm. I have an Aviation Design 1/5.5 scale Spitfire which I've been working on, on and off, for about 17 years. According to the designer, it's a quick build kit...

In Praise of Twins: (Extracted from my contribution of 21/12/23 and edited to make the bullet points more pointy...) My spec: Sleek, simple twins are best because they have less complicated airframes (e.g. Mossie 'in', Black Widow 'out') capitalise on the widespread availability of (what I call) the 'standard' sport electric set up: 11 x 5-8" prop. 35XX 900-1200kv motors, 40/60 A ESCs and 2200-3000 3S or 4S LiPos (x2) Pretty much everybody must have this kind of set up in their stash - at the lower end of the ranges I mention, it's the standard set up in the Wot 4 foam-e. (I've got several 🙂 ) No u/c. With the above gear a model can be sized large enough to have some 'presence' but is still easy to hand launch (either self or helper) and can belly land without incident. OR conversely - big enough to add retracts if you really want them If you're looking for attractive prototypes that are popular, yet not already done to death, then a practicable twin is the way to go. Top of my leaderboard: Whirlwind Beaufighter (or fort) (something like the old Flair kit) Mosquito (in 3rd 'cos it's already been 'Nijhuised' in a couple of sizes) Wildcards: Hudson Petlyakov PE2

Slow now

I'd use 3mm studding epoxied into 4mm carbon tube with 3mm clevises. I would not use those turned alloy sockets unless the threaded part was made separately from steel and the socket tapped to take it. If the socket and thread is machined 'all in one' then the threaded end will bend and/or snap. (T-shirt, etc.)

Four servicemen were undergoing a psych evaluation. They were all asked "What would you do if you found a scorpion in your tent?" Sailor: "I'd stamp on it" Soldier: "I'd crush it with my boot" Marine: "I'd rip off its sting and then eat it" Airman "I'd call room service and ask them what a tent is doing in my room..."

Well, it depends on your perspective, I suppose! 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿 So - about this Wooden Spoon. Can I assume it will be come from either Ireland's or Scotland's extensive collection? Neither would miss one... 😈

This is a real shame. Best wishes for the future, Jon. Was any attempt made to sell the business as a going concern?

These are excellent. It seems to have undergone a bit of re-design with the power and speed control re-located to the top,which is a small but worthwhile improvement.

Ida thunk that if you're holding the plane to push it against the starter, then you are restraining it! Or does your Club insist that 'planes must be kept on a leash at all times'. 😁. The JE-type geared starter is just fine and as the weather is so crepe, I'm going to pop out to the workshop and adapt mine for LiPo operation!

Nope. I started a thread on this topic in July last year (23)! Plus ca change...

True, but the attachments have such cryptic descriptions that it's likely most people will ignore them! It's a couple of seconds work to edit the documents' 'suggested' names to something meaningful.

Well that'll learn me! The little voice in my head told me not to poke, but would I listen? 😄 Sorry for your loss Eric and I'm glad that this kind of activity brings some solace. Yes, of course the advice of knowledgeable friends should generally be valued above that of some blokes on a forum. Yet here we are... 😉

Looks good! I may pop in for a chinwag 🙂

The first coupe of posts conjured up an image (for me) of a floaty sport/glider type, but I can see that the Artizan looks a bit more than that! 🤨 All the models mentioned have manufacturer/designer recommendations associated with them, so it begs the question - why the question? Is google no longer our friend?

Overweight for a 48" 'sedate' model I'd say. Useful ballast in a wind, but I'd max at 1800.

Off the top of my head I'd say 1000 to 1300. 800 might be good. 1800 probably a bit too much. 2200 is right out...

Getting the Championship decider out of the way early! 😉

Ooh, err! Best of luck with the repairs! 🤞