Mike T

Three shows over one weekend. Some serious banging of heads together required. Kudos to Southern Modelcraft, Al's Hobbies and Inwood for going to the 'established' date at Much Marcle, when the other venues would have been more convenient for them.

I've used a variation on the talc theme, which I heard about years ago. Mix a paste of meths and talc and 'paint' this into/over the oil affected areas. Leave it a week. The meths evaporates and as it does so it draws the oil into the talc. Scape out the goo and repeat as necessary, finally swabbing out with neat meths and kitchen paper. It works (though not as well as replacing the affected wood) but isn't a quick fix. PS - to get covering to stick it needs to be sealed with something penetrating, like thinned dope and sanding sealer. Balsaloc it for belt and braces.

Drop shipping. Aliexpress run their own DS operation in the UK (somewhere...) AFAIC HK are still a busted flush, until they can prove unequivocally to the contrary. In the meantime, I'll keep an eye on all you guinea-pigs 🙂

Superb! And it will look even better in the paint.

Vergering on the obscene...

I'm in the UK. Quote: "E10 is pretty much ubiquitous in the UK now". Capische?

I was happy with the price I paid - it's what was available at the time. E10 is pretty much ubiquitous in the UK now, for (supposedly) environmental reasons. I suppose they do things differently in foreign parts... 🙂

I like the sound of the Popham show (I went there once 20+ years ago for a full-size 'fly-in') and wish it well. However, the Much Marcle show is well-established in the calendar and it's annoying when dates coincide and split the attendance of visitors and trade alike. I was very tee'd off a couple of years ago when the organisers of Weston Park 'dumped' an additional show on MM's dates, impacting the visitors/trade accordingly. I made a point of going to MM and buying from the traders who stayed loyal.

When I dabbed the white highlights in his corneas, I was suddenly confronted with a 1000 yd stare. Quite disconcerting - I actually turned away! 😁

It's actually the (white) RB-45 controller I have, which has inputs/outputs for trike u/c plus brakes and nosewheel steering. No differential timing, no gear door inputs/outputs.

The last service kit I bought was from Amazon - about £13 and the diaphragms/seals were upgraded to 'E10 proof'.

As above - try garden machinery/chainsaw repairers in your area - they always seem to have odds and ends of carbs lying around so they may have what you want (although in my experience, they won't give it away!)

What leccy said. A 3D-printer capable friend found and printed off a head for me which I grafted on to an existing body (and old AH Designs pilot whose latex hands and head had perished 😥). The head turned out to be female, so I performed some gender-reassignment surgery (blunted the nose, broadened the chin, added a regulation moustache with 'milliput') then painted 'him' up with acrylics and added a helmet made from some brown leatherette I'd got to do cockpit coamings. The goggles came off the old AH pilot. I think he looks like the archetypal n-n-n-n 19 year old...

Maybe the prop is slipping at full throttle?

I got the ER-40 units and the 200 controller only. It was expensive enough without adding on 'luxuries'! 😄. Mine is far from flying (the units are still in the box, though the controller and peripherals are all plumbed-in).

Just take a sabbatical, Ray. Don't dispose of anything yet. Knowing roughly where you are, there are at least two clubs not more than 30 minutes from you, I'd guess. Maybe drop in on them in a month or two and see if there are a few 'kindred spirits'?

Just a footnote: The carb conversion went fine - run taper and 2nd 1/4 BSF taps down the carb spigot and job done: No pics of it running, sorry, but as predicted it ran as normal at full throttle. Lowering the throttle knocked a few '00 rpm off and that was it. Sub-piston induction (over)rules OK! Oh well! Whatever I build will end up 2-channel...

As a general rule, the moulded characters on a prop (usually the diameter x pitch, e.g. 6 x 4) face forwards, regardless of whether it's a 'pusher' or a 'puller' (or 'tractor'). Is it just screwed on and relying on the motor rotation to keep it there? That might explain why it spun off if you hit it.

I bought the 40 series 95° units with 10mm trunnion bores for my Aviation Design (83") Spitfire. They are 'Rolls-Royce' units for sure and you need to buy the bespoke controller to operate them. I intend to machine my own scale(ish) oleos for them 😱

I'll have to sit tight until they come up with a DSM2/X or ACCST version...

What protocol?

Swann-Morton 20-series blades in a No 4 handle. Stanley and/or snap-off blades for the heavy stuff. Japanese pull-saw (24+ tpi) for liteply and cross-cuts. Permagrit block for bringing down to size, used on its side with a bench hook. Always start with the elevators and/or rudder to get your hand and eye in. By the time you've finished everything else, you'll look at them again and decide you could have done better! 🙂

Hope you're right! 🤞 Will review tomorrow...

I was hoping to make this, but my partner in crime has bailed on me citing the wind and weather forecast 😞 . Hope to make the next one 🤞

Absolutely! Mach weiter so!