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Tim Campling

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  1. Cheers Cymaz. I can't get near it 'till the weekend but I've squirted a bit of fuel into the carb to 'wet' it.
  2. Thanks for all the input guys. I did think about soaking in fuel, I'll check all the above and try squirting a bit of fuel up the chute.
  3. Thanks Tom, is that easy enough, I presume there is a rebuild kit available. Is this sort of problem common and if so what's the prevention?
  4. Hi all, I've finally succumbed and bought my first petrol ic, a DLE 60 twin. Bought from a mate but unused originally from Steve Webbs. It's all plumbed in and live but I can't start it. The issue seems to be no fuel into the carb. If I blow down the feed pipe its like blowing against a bung regardless of throttle/choke position. I've checked the low and high speed needles are at factory. A small squirt of fuel into the pot creates a pop so I know there's a spark. I feel the carb is just not sucking fuel in but am I missing something, what am I doing wrong?
  5. Me!!! It's been nearly a whole year since last time.
  6. That's mighty kind of you. Since my offer of 2.67 million USD didn't turn up I had to cancel the 1/4 scale Spitty, MZ 18, and the Moki radial for the big Jug. Can't wait!!
  7. I agree Martin. The Laser is easily my best engine. It sounds gorgeous, starts like a dream is reasonably economical and yes it does fly the Spit well. However, I just think this model could use a bit more power. Now if Laser made a reasonably priced 35/40cc petrol, I'd be one of the first in the queue!
  8. Hi Peter the flap horn technique I used has worked very well, so I can recommend that. I didn't alter the firewall or surrounding area at all except to shim it for a bit of right and down thrust. Since then, I have undone this as it is not needed. One area I did strengthen is where the rudder hinges fit into the fin. Mine only had a soft piece of balsa behind the glass and didn't look strong enough to me. I know the SC engines and they are OK, I would just be wary of the power, especially if you fly off grass as I do. Make sure you are well up to flying speed before you rotate. She will tip stall to the left (aided by torque effect) if you are not fast enough. Use plenty of right rudder to control this. The Laser 150 will fly mine well, great sound, scale like speeds. What I miss is the ability to pull big loops and Immelmanns. Just not enough power. Oh, unless you mean the 2 stroke SC?
  9. Hi Peter and Tony only just spotted this. For my doors I used light ply which I scored inside at the places I wanted the bends. Then used steam to 'roll' the ply to the shape of the wing. I initially cut it oversized to the hole so that the roll didn't make it too small then cut to fit. I used silicon to stick the door to the oleo which allows the door to spring off if it gets caught on grass. I'm not sure where to find it but I remember Danny Fenton showing how to do the same with Lith plate. Peter, I know what you mean about the tail but persevere and don't use the supplied pull/pull cable. I quickly found out that the YT kit is not for the feint hearted! For the price I would have hoped for better hardware but, the scale outline is fantastic and and I love the way mine looks and flys. I would never have time to build what I wanted myself so this was the next best thing. It's not ARTF but a great base for a custom finish. What engine are you going to use? Tim
  10. The elite retracts in my 109 seem ok. However the best units I have are by Lado in France. They are not cheap at £200 a pair, plus legs but they are ace. All electric, very strong and great service from Christophe.
  11. Well that'll teach me! Having flown my 109 a few times, nervous and concentrating each time, I flew yesterday and felt nice and relaxed about it. Too relaxed it would seem as I ploughed into the long grass before the runway tearing out one retract. Doh!
  12. Congratulations Mark, good to hear.
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