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Michael Wright

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Everything posted by Michael Wright

  1. I am having trouble cancelling my subscription. I was directed by phone to send an e-mail but I am still having the mag delivered. I don't want to go into great detail here as I feel an error has been made. My question is ' is there an easy way to cancel, and if not why not. Edited By Michael Wright on 13/10/2020 22:03:39
  2. Thanks for the replies, Simon, I have spent what feels like hours getting the mechanical geometry as close as possible to perfect, I could not belive how long it took! so I am happy there. Frank, I think my problem lies within your answer, I will look again today when 'The Strife' lets me escape and hide in my shed! I will report back with my findings.
  3. Hi, I have what I feel to be an odd one here, I have read the article by Andy Ellison on the use of snap flaps. I have set the wing up correctly in my Spektrum dx9, done the relevant suggested programming and although I get the ailerons going down together , the right one drops a little more than the left. Has anybody come across this? Can anybody explain why it is happening and a possible cure? All advice welcome!
  4. Hi, I have just had a less than perfect landing with my HobbyKing Voltiguer,....yes I know , ..a bad approach often leads to a bad landing!....and the live hinge has split on the right side of the elevator. I am thinking of repairing it in the following way as the split is so clean. UHU Por for the hinge it'self and following this with a length of 'Blenderm' tape on both sides of the hinge. I used this method on the rudder of my 'Wargo Yak' when it failed on the building board. I throw this Yak around like mad and the repair has stayed put for a whole season with no sign of failing. I would like your views on this please. regards Mike
  5. Thanks for the replies. It seems that I am not alone in this. It is interesting that we are all suffering more away from the close up zone. We also conducted tests with people on the boundary fence and had the same result, the plane looks closer than it is in reality. A lot of we problem is having to land in fields that are a little small for the size of plane we fly here. Regards Mike
  6. Hi everybody, first off I am not a 'newbie' flyer, I have been flying for many years in many disciplines...trainers, wot4's, warbirds,gliders,EDF's, and 3D. My question is this, how common is poor depth of field placement, ie 'am I over the boundary hedge line yet'? hitting trees when I could have sworn that my plane was between me and the tree by a good distance? Just interested in the experience of others. regards Mike
  7. Thanks for the replies everybody. Soren, I will be going the route you mentioned, by the way I programed my DX9 as per your video and it is BRILLIANT !! thanks again for your advice! kind regards Mike
  8. Hi, looking for more advice please! I have now got my Multiplex Heron up and running and enjoying great thermal flights. I am starting to think that a vario would be nice but I have no idea what to get. The set up I have is a Spektrum DX9 (black edition) and a Lemon 10 channel rx. What would you suggest? kind regards Mike
  9. Hi Speedster, sometimes I could just kick myself in the ass! I was trying to do it from the camber menu and quite rightly I should have been in the camber presets....all sorted and working now thanks to your advice! Cheers! Mike
  10. Well, thanks to peoples help and advice here and with further advice from John Lee I am slowly getting the programing for my Multiplex Heron sorted out. My current problem is trying to get my DX9 to add a little reflex in the speed flight mode and camber in the thermal flight mode. Everything I try is not working, so .please any help would again gladly received! Kind regards Mike
  11. Thanks everybody for the replies, ...yes am using a Sektrum DX9. I think that I would prefer crow on the throttle stick so I will use the suggestions of John Lee Also I think all replies are valid and have helped me think this through, thanks once again to everybody for replying! kind regards Mike
  12. Hi, I am an experienced power flyer and have been given a 'Multiplex Heron' as a gift. My intention is to set it up with flaps so that I can set up 'crow' ,camber, reflex etc , I will be using a 'Lemon' 10 channel RX and I have realized I do not know what goes where when plugging in separate ailerons and separate flaps. (I would like to use separate flaps so that in certain flight modes I can combine them to achieve full wing length ailerons) Any help and advice would be much appreciated! Thanks Mike
  13. Hi, I am looking for an Precision Aerobatics X , I don't seem to be able to find one, are they no longer made?
  14. With my experience of bad flap servos and very poor quality links, and the thing I find really telling: the other crashes, on maidens, with video on youtube to back it up all suggesting servo/links failure. I think that is the answer! Too many planes doing the same thing from the same company!
  15. It is interesting! I went over from Futaba to Sektrum because I could take advantage of BNF aircraft and I have had plenty over the years with not one radio related crash (it's trees with me,....they are plane magnets see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1BC3yYF399g&t=3s   I am flying the edf! Having said that ,as you say, with a little digging we can see that maybe all is not well in their camp. I have a long standing flying mate who has had constant problems with a DX6i. when he got himself a new DX6 all his problems vanished!
  16. Hi everybody, ....just decided to do a quick search on FMS P51D Mustang crashes especially on maiden flights. I searched for two reasons, one, when I am interested in getting a new plane then a visit to 'Youtube' is mandatory. It soon became apparent that I was noticing , to me at least, that a lot seemed to be lost on maiden flights. The aircraft would appear behaving normally for a while, then all hell would break loose! The second reason to search is when constructing my FMS P51 D the flap servos failed on the building board and had to be replaced and the control surface to servo links (at the control surface end) broke on the rudder and the elevator. Now I have been modeling for many years and was able to rule out 'Mr Fat Fingers' and replaced the offending links and went on to a very successful maiden. I have not flown it since, but am now thinking to replace all of the links as I do not think they are up to snuff. Do you think this may be part of the problem?
  17. So,...we are making progress! Tried every thing that has been advised here so far, with no joy. On another forum across the pond it was suggested that the retracts on this model ( and one or two others from the same company) were temperature sensitive. Now, it's darn cold in the man cave so the Meteor was brought indoors for an hour or two to warm up. The result is that they are now working....ish, but well enough. By this I mean that the two main body legs are deployed by the 'gear' switch, but the only way I have found to make the nose wheel deploy is to assign it to the flap switch. to raise the gear....ALL THREE LEGS COME UP BY FLICKING THE'GEAR' SWITCH!!! I must state at this point that this is the first model I have had with retracts so all this might be normal, if it is not any more advice you can offer re operation of the retracts by just the 'gear' switch will be warmly welcomed! Kind regards Mike
  18. Hi, Simon. yes, that was the first thing I checked, I even swapped out the triple 'Y' lead for another, and back again with the same result all round. Ian, I will try this tomorrow and let you know how I get on. Thank you. Kind regards Mike
  19. Hi, can anybody please give me some advice on the retracts for the Dynam Meteor v2(retracts) please. The situation is that it is a tricycle system but only one leg is going up and down(port side),nose wheel will not go up or down, though the steering left and right is working and the starboard side is not going up or down. They are connected by a triple 'Y' lead plugged into the 'gear' slot on the rx which is a Spektrum AR6210 and the TX is a Spektrum DX6i Any help on how to rectify this problem will be much appreciated! Kind regards Mike
  20. A friend came by yesterday with an un-built kit of a "Dingbat"....I think it may be a late 1980's design made from thin corrigated plastic sheet like that used in house 'For sale' signs. Looking for basic info such as engine size as it is not mentioned in the instructions. Plus anybodys experiences of the model. Regards Mike
  21. Thanks every body! that has given me a direction to go, Robotbirds will probably get an order soon! Regards Mike
  22. Hi, need some advice please, I've come across a 'Hyperion YAK 55 SP' recently, (38.6" span , suggested motor is a HP-Z3007-26) and I would like to put a brushless set up into it. Has anybody done this or what motor, speed controller, battery would you recommend? kind regards Mike
  23. Thanks GrahamWh, and BEB, will phone him to try this later this morning, Cheers Mike Wright
  24. Nick, a friend of mine is having problems with his F4 Corsair. To be precise, when the throttle stick on his Spektrum DX6I is at the bottom, (low ) the motor does not turn...this is good,...the problem is that full revs on the motor is reached by the time the stick is in its center position, moving the stick from the center to full (up) there is no change in motor responce. I thought that it may be a 'radio' problem, but it does not happen with the other two planes bound to his transmitter, they throttle in the way you would expect....leading me to think we need to look at the speed controller. Any insights you have would be most welcome. The plane is Dynam   FMS F4U-4 Corsair V3 1400 Series ARTF Kind regards Mike Wright
  25. Hi David, I have flown the Carbon Z a good few times now and noted the pitch oscillation on each flight when above 3/4 throttle. Further reading of the rx (9AR635) user guide suggests that I may be in the wrong flight mode. In preparation to change flight modes I decided to restore the AS3X gains back to 'factory configuration' Upon following the instructions in the user guide to archive this, I find that that my red, green, and blue LED's continue to flash constantly, and at no time become solid as suggested. Have you experienced this? King regards Mike
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