Chris Bott - Moderator

There are a number of good glassing videos on the YouTube channel of our own @Danny Fenton For example:-

I think a bi-directional one would do, Brian? If memory serves me correctly, you'd just need to set the offset voltage to suit, probably to half supply volts? A quick eBay search found this in the UK (and plenty offered from China). https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CJMCU-CJMCU-758-ACS758LCB-050B-PFF-T-Linear-Current-Sensor-Hall-Current-Module-/163353797118?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

Hi Brian. The article was published in the May 2019 edition. Note: I've sent you a PM too. Chris

Interesting.. I tried the image below and got an error message saying "the link could not be embedded because only https URLs are allowed." Then I tried again but added an s after http

..and in Firefox 93.2.0 on Android. (This is loading more activity at bottom of latest posts)

Load more activity is working quickly for me using chrome on Android.

Martin I think the issue of inserting image using it's URL is often caused by the website that hosts the image not allowing it. I've just failed when trying this option using urls from two different sites and finally had success with a third site:-

Hopefully not too late to add my name? Cheers Chris

Ron I believe these are raw stick outputs recorded in the Tx and are therefore no reflection at all on the RF link or anything in the model. I'd be looking at gimbals and gimbal wires etc. Maybe Tx calibration.

I find the Ender 3 magnetic flexible build plate better for adhesion than a glass one. It's best kept scrupulously clean with IPA. No touching / leaving even the slightest greasy finger prints. No hairspray, no glues or tapes. Leveling is very important too. I replaced mine after about 18 months. PS There is a self leveling (a bit of a misnomer) 'add on' available but fitting it is far from trivial as it requires an Ender 3 software change. Software is yet another hobby all in it's self and getting that wrong can render the machine inoperable.

Excellent video Peter. Worth the wait, I'd say.

I used Cura for a very long time and then tried Prusaslicer just out of curiousity and because they added a printer profile specifically for my Ender 3 pro. I've never gone back. I found the profile almost spot on, I think I just needed to increase print temperature a bit. What you'll find with any slicer software is that there are 1001 parameters that can be adjusted to get the print quality you want. It can be quite a task with lots of failed prints and head scratching untill all the important parameters are right for your machine. A baseline setup for your printer model is always a useful starting point and a good thing to go back to when things start going wrong.

I think this video is well worth a watch. Especially the bed levelling part. https://youtu.be/dQ0q9zLygTY

I've had mine a year or two but do seem to remember having to get the microswitch lower than it would obviously go, before the nozzle would go near the bed.

Hi Erfolg You'll have to obtain a (or draw and generate your own) .STL file of an object. Then import it into a slicer program that's set up specifically for your printer. Here you can change dozens of print parameters such as nozzle temperature to suit the filament you're using. Often needing to experiment and tweak parameters to get a print you're happy with. Next, save the sliced object onto the SD card as a .gcode file. Place the SD card into the printer and print from there. To download ready made .STL files, have a look at thingiverse.com For slicing software I can heartily recommend prusaslicer for use with the ender 3 as it has a ready made "profile" for that printer. Download from https://www.prusa3d.com/prusaslicer/ For tutorials I'd suggest spending plenty of time on YouTube. Chris