Jump to content

Chris Bott - Moderator

Members
  • Posts

    8,522
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4

Everything posted by Chris Bott - Moderator

  1. Like the article or not, his point is valid - that if glitches or loss of control is in any way possible by the closeness of a phone to the Tx, and, mitigating against it is as simple as having your phone in your back pocket rather than the front, then why wouldn't you? (A metre away would be far better but hey..) I'm sure there's been more than one loss of model over the years this way and expect that there was usually no explanation ever found. Who remembers putting a mobile phone next to a hifi amp and getting a horrid noise from the speakers as a call comes in?
  2. There are a number of good glassing videos on the YouTube channel of our own @Danny Fenton For example:-
  3. I think a bi-directional one would do, Brian? If memory serves me correctly, you'd just need to set the offset voltage to suit, probably to half supply volts? A quick eBay search found this in the UK (and plenty offered from China). https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CJMCU-CJMCU-758-ACS758LCB-050B-PFF-T-Linear-Current-Sensor-Hall-Current-Module-/163353797118?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0
  4. Hi Brian. The article was published in the May 2019 edition. Note: I've sent you a PM too. Chris
  5. Interesting.. I tried the image below and got an error message saying "the link could not be embedded because only https URLs are allowed." Then I tried again but added an s after http
  6. ..and in Firefox 93.2.0 on Android. (This is loading more activity at bottom of latest posts)
  7. Load more activity is working quickly for me using chrome on Android.
  8. Martin I think the issue of inserting image using it's URL is often caused by the website that hosts the image not allowing it. I've just failed when trying this option using urls from two different sites and finally had success with a third site:-
  9. Ron I believe these are raw stick outputs recorded in the Tx and are therefore no reflection at all on the RF link or anything in the model. I'd be looking at gimbals and gimbal wires etc. Maybe Tx calibration.
  10. I find the Ender 3 magnetic flexible build plate better for adhesion than a glass one. It's best kept scrupulously clean with IPA. No touching / leaving even the slightest greasy finger prints. No hairspray, no glues or tapes. Leveling is very important too. I replaced mine after about 18 months. PS There is a self leveling (a bit of a misnomer) 'add on' available but fitting it is far from trivial as it requires an Ender 3 software change. Software is yet another hobby all in it's self and getting that wrong can render the machine inoperable.
  11. I used Cura for a very long time and then tried Prusaslicer just out of curiousity and because they added a printer profile specifically for my Ender 3 pro. I've never gone back. I found the profile almost spot on, I think I just needed to increase print temperature a bit. What you'll find with any slicer software is that there are 1001 parameters that can be adjusted to get the print quality you want. It can be quite a task with lots of failed prints and head scratching untill all the important parameters are right for your machine. A baseline setup for your printer model is always a useful starting point and a good thing to go back to when things start going wrong.
  12. I think this video is well worth a watch. Especially the bed levelling part. https://youtu.be/dQ0q9zLygTY
  13. I've had mine a year or two but do seem to remember having to get the microswitch lower than it would obviously go, before the nozzle would go near the bed.
  14. Hi Erfolg You'll have to obtain a (or draw and generate your own) .STL file of an object. Then import it into a slicer program that's set up specifically for your printer. Here you can change dozens of print parameters such as nozzle temperature to suit the filament you're using. Often needing to experiment and tweak parameters to get a print you're happy with. Next, save the sliced object onto the SD card as a .gcode file. Place the SD card into the printer and print from there. To download ready made .STL files, have a look at thingiverse.com For slicing software I can heartily recommend prusaslicer for use with the ender 3 as it has a ready made "profile" for that printer. Download from https://www.prusa3d.com/prusaslicer/ For tutorials I'd suggest spending plenty of time on YouTube. Chris
  15. Many thanks Mike. Its suddenly quite low on my priority list but this gives me something to look at when I get back to it.
  16. I believe that an electric motor should be running for a failsafe test, certainly with some makes of radio, because one of the failsafe options is for the receiver to stop sending pulses on loss of signal. I have ESCs which, in this scenario, will carry on driving the motor at whatever speed they were running when pulses disappeared. So rather than identify which combinations of RX and ESC fall into this trap, it's much easier to test every setup. Restrain model, open the throttle a little then switch off the Tx. For me, only then do I have confidence that the complete setup will do as I expect.
  17. On my Android phone I use an app called Lit Photo to shrink file sizes. I'm sure there are many alternatives too.
  18. Lovely session last night. Such a shame that there was no Fury Maiden but it was the right decision. Here's a few seconds of video, turn up your sound. VID_20210423_185925.mp4
  19. 4S LiFeP04 sounds ideal for this application, Don. I've used 4S A123 flight packs to start small cars with flat batteries. Voltages are spot on. How about something like this, there are plenty of different makes/sizes show up from a quick web search. Self contained in a nice case and designed to be charged from a car battery charger etc. This is just a random example:- https://www.tayna.co.uk/jump-packs/noco/noco-gb20/
  20. Haha, spookily my first one is in a WotsWot and I've had the bottom wing off numerous times in the last couple of days. Mainly due to telemetry issues but the last time 'cos I hadn't mounted the stab firmly enough ?.
  21. Beware that the Archer/ACCESS stabilisers appear to have a very slightly different self check procedure. Handbook(leaflet) says, for this step, "Different from the SXR/R9 Stab OTA/RB series". So is this different? For these, self check is still initiated with a few switches of Ch12. Stab goes into 8-9 seconds of checking it's attitude and centres, servos won't move during this period but you shouldn't move the sticks Blue LED stays steady ON. Then there's a similar period with Blue LED flashing where you need to hit the gimbal extremes on highest rates for A,E &R. Finally the surfaces do the waggle dance to signify self check complete. PS It's not ideal if you can't see the blue LED, which is likely in the majority of models. You just have to guess the timings.
  22. Thanks Bob. I have an FrSky S.Port 150A current sensor plugged in and that was discovered straight away. So the S.Port on the Rx is working fine. It's just the homebrew ones that are an issue at present. Prob best if I ask on their own forum.
  23. Resurrecting an old thread, I have a question for other sensor builders and an update on the openXsensor software. 1). Has anyone has success with any openXsensor based telemetry with FrSky Archer / Access receivers? I'm really struggling with one unit working (but sometimes not) and 4 others that don't work at all. 2). I've downloaded the latest version of openXsensor, to find that it now includes a 'configurator' program that really simplifies the setting up. If you're still interested then this looks well worth investigating.
×
×
  • Create New...