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stuey

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  1. Hi everyone. I need to get some suitable colour matched paint for my FMS Hawk after some nose damage. I tried to get a match at a Homebase recently, but they could not scan the colour on the ventral fin I took along because it is painted on foam (???) and the colour card shade I found that looked to be close ended up all over the tin shelf and floor around the mixing machine twice due to a problem... Has anyone else had better luck than me?
  2. Hi everyone. I have successfully maidened my Hunter now, so now time to finish the scheme. I have covered it in the red and white livery of the RAF Halton gate guard. Can anyone suggest a source to get some decals made, the registration and roundels etc please? Cheers
  3. I converted my F-16 many years ago to a Wemotec Minifan and a Plettenberg brushed motor which flew better on round cells. I keep meaning to get it back in the air with lipos. I would like to try it with the current setup but I've not been able to find a 60a lipo cut off compatible esc. I could just carefully set a timer I suppose, not that I fly to a cut off BTW!
  4. I have been using super-phatic glue on my Hunters flock hinges, gives you working time.
  5. If you want to fit a catapult hook, a good position to start is 2/3 of the distance back from the nose to the cg. For example if the tip of the nose to the cg is 60cm, fit the hook 40cm back from the nose. This helps pull the model forward, you don't want to zoom upwards like a hi-start. This is from my own experience and info gained from RC Groups EDF forums over time.
  6. If you have a smaller diameter exhaust, you end up with less static thrust put higher efflux speed. A bigger diameter gives more static thrust, but lower efflux speed. This is what I understand to be correct for older lower blade count fans, I think higher blade counts do need a slightly bigger exit. I thought the Provost was supposed to be a 4s setup BTW? I tried powering up my Hunter yesterday before covering and final fit out, it had just below 1:1 thrust ratio on a 45% charged 25c 3s pack. Not hooked it up to the watt meter yet though. FMS fan from 4-max.
  7. Thanks for your replies guys. I have seen the notch in the front of the wing on another build, so I have cut a section out already. I thought it was more to do with getting the pack in through the hatch, rather than its position. I have blue foam so I will make a spacer to locate the pack. I might also look at some cooling inlets near the nose too. Cheers
  8. I am nearing the end of my build, and have a question. The outline of the 3S 2200 lipo on the plan is much smaller than any of the standard 2200 packs I have, and I am getting concerned about making the cg work. Can anyone let me know what you are using and was the cg an issue? I am thinking the pack will be too big and far forward. Cheers
  9. Thanks for the reply Pete. I worked out that you are supposed to put notches in the stringers at the rear so they fit F9 properly. The confusion was caused by the plan referring to the stringers as spars! The same for the shallow slots on F6. I have my acetate for the thrust tube now so I can crack on Cheers
  10. Hi chaps. I have just started my build with the CNC kit. A little head scratcher I have come across. Where the 5mm stringers fit into the rear former F9, they need to be thinned down to fit flush with the outer edge of the former. I can't find where on the plan you start thinning then down after leaving F6? Not mentioned in the build article either unless I missed it. Cheers
  11. Hi everyone. I am considering the Sabre from the mini jet selection at the moment. So can we say that a 3s 2200 pack is OK with sufficient cheater inlets? I have plenty to use rather than buy some smaller packs. Cheers
  12. That would be great, thanks. I will try and find the dimensions for your lipo and use that as a guide.
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