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Tools you can make yourself


kc
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Posted by kc on 02/01/2012 13:39:23:
No, you have not hijacked the thread , just brought all the info back to life a year after I posted all the photos which nobody seemed to notice!
 
I do think that constantly quoting the other mans comments makes all such threads less readable though. ( Moderators can you do anything? )
 
 
It is easy on a forum when the posts have a number, but it can get very confusing when you don't know what an answer is to, it is not always obvious
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Posted by Steve W-O on 02/01/2012 13:42:32:

It is easy on a forum when the posts have a number, but it can get very confusing when you don't know what an answer is to, it is not always obvious
 
Steve - but you can delete irrelevant parts of quoted posts or just reply by using the poster's name! I'm with kc on this one. It's especially bad when the quote includes photos and long strings of prior quotes. Just delete them from the quote that you are replying to, we've already seen the pics if we got this far!

[rant off/]
 
back(ish) on track - I've been using the same SLEC trimming tool for about 15 years, maybe I should replace it now? The cheap Chinese hobby knife kits sold in Aldi, Lidl et al are good for trimming film, very sharp when new and the kits include a sharpening stone.

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Posted by Bob Cotsford on 02/01/2012 14:10:56:
Posted by Steve W-O on 02/01/2012 13:42:32:

It is easy on a forum when the posts have a number, but it can get very confusing when you don't know what an answer is to, it is not always obvious
 
Steve - but you can delete irrelevant parts of quoted posts

 
 
 
If you look back at my posts, you will see I often do that, but when the quote is short, I often don't
I'm put off using names when I see @someone !
 
 
I bought one of those trimming tools, but I don't find it easy to use, I need a handle, hence the lolly stick
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I have a way of cutting spar slots in wing ribs when all clamped or held together with a dowel rod through the lot (or long pins from either side) and a piece of LE & TE held in their respective places for accuracy .
Use pieces of broken hacksaw blades ( Why broken I hear you ask ?) strapped together at each end with masking tape.Either these or a mixture of junior hacksaw blades as well can be laminated to get the perfect slotting tool . To get the correct depth you only have to put a lengthwise piece of masking tape on as well ( or do it by eye ) Of course,this doesn't apply to you rich people who can afford pre-cut / lasered components .
Myron YO13 recycling broken misused tools dept
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Sorry Myron! I thought you were referring to the tool. I illustrated this tool previously

But you perhaps meant this way of cutting slots ( with the tool above instead of the razor saw )

And your extra bit was a piece of spar or LE inserted to locate nicely.
 
Its worth saying that if you use junior hacksaw blades that the pins can be just pressed out ( on the Neil Eclipse ones which are top quality. I dont use the poor quality imported ones )
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I'm going to have a go at making a LE sanding tool when I get time to spend on the Hi Fly.
 
Use a round file of approx the correct radius on a scrap of wood to create a concave slope, stick some coarse glass paper on the inside of the curve and viola, initial sanding block.
 
Sanding is my least favorite job - I just want to cover it damn it!
 
Another method I have seen for slotting ribs is to take a spare piece of the spar and attach some paper, mark the depth and simply sand to the depth.
 
Olly
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An old RCM magazine had a tip for a LE sanding tool. They suggest pieces of PVC plumbing pipe ( or any tube) of various diameters cut down the middle to half round then lined with glasspaper. The offcut is stuck behind the first piece( concentricly ) to thicken and stiffen creating a bit of a handle. Use PVC pipe adhesive which is also good for ABS cowls I think.
 
If you hate sanding to shape then buy just 1 Permagrit tool....the wedge block coarse 1 side fine other ..... You will find the dust is much larger  and less messy while it only takes a few strokes to remove lots of material. So different to glasspaper!   Expensive but worth it.  Even better than the old Sandvik Sandplates which is unobtainable now but Proops may still sell some 1.5 inch x 9 inch sheets of the similar stuff which can be used to make your own sanders.

Edited By kc on 03/01/2012 17:55:46

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  • 7 months later...

I use a piece of studding with a wingnut fitted for removing and replacing electric motors which are behind firewalls. Undo one mounting screw, screw in the studding, then remove the other screw and you can push the motor back into the fuselage to work on or replace.

To replace the motor, push the studding through the firewall, connect the studding to the motor while in the fuselage then pull it up against the firewall. Line up the other screw hole and tighten the wingnut. This holds the motor in place with the empty hole lined up. Screw in one motor retaining screw and tighten it. When you remove the studding the other hole is already lined up.

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Dremmel Holder

 

Using an old thermal / carry mug..

Cut the plastic off the bottom, including the bottom of the 'cup' part, leaving the plastic inner, as not to expose the sharp top edge of the metal part.. Et voila - a Dremmel 'holster', that can be hung up, or off the side of the bench.. Bits can be left in (as they just poke out the bottom) especially useful when using delicate cutting / grinding discs, which can break if left on the bench..

 

Useful 07 Dremmel Holster 1

.

Useful 08 Dremmel Holster 2

 

Luv

Chrisie.. xx

Edited By Cyclicscooby on 13/08/2012 15:52:13

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  • 9 months later...

I kept meaning to come back to this. I had some sanding to do a while ago to get a rounded shape on a nose which was thwen blended into the fuselage of a model, I got some old crd tubes from the fabric shop when I went with SWMBO to carry her bags, these are thick wall various diameter and upto about 8 feet long. I cut them in twain down the centre and then cut to just over the length I needed to sand, fitted a spare cupboard handle in the center, with c/s screws and heads below the surface. I then cyano'd glass/sand paper into the middle, coarse on one tool, medium then fine.

the sanding was done quickly and with minimum of fuss.

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  • 2 weeks later...

here,s a tip thats useful find pringle cartons cut the top half down to about 1" cut off the bottom base glue it to the topcutoff piece & it makes a handy pin container & with its clear plastic top its easy to see whats in the container .
I used several of these for screws -etc + they dont break when dropped from bench to floor .

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  • 3 weeks later...

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