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Building my new Fournier RF-4


Peter Miller
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Well I thought that I would do a blog on my new model. Just have to hope it flies after all this.
 
The model will be a 1/6th scale Fournier RF-4 with a span on 74" and an SC V 30 for power. It will be similar to my RF-7 but even more to scale.
 
So here are the first few pictures.
 
Fuselage sides with doublers and triangular stock in  corners
 

This fuselage is joined at the rear as the sides are straight there.
 

Then the front formers are added while pulling in the sides over the plan.

Glue to turtle deck sheets to the sides and leave them to dry.

Wet the outside and apply heat while bending them over. trim and piun down. Note use of map pins.

The fully shaped fuselage, the triangular wood allows for a lot of shaping of the underside.
 

First stage of building the cowl.

Next stage in building the cowl. It is now ready to be shaped up.

Starting on the wing. All lower sheet and capstrips pinned down

Ribs, spars and leading edge added
The wing is wedged up with washout wedges (Red arrows) and then to top sheet is added. Note cloths pegs at spar and map pis on leading edge.

Edited By Peter Miller on 11/11/2010 19:16:41

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I expect it will be a pull out plan but that is up to the editor.
 
Tim
 
I am experimenting with 3 degrees [positive and about 3 degrees washout. The tips are only 4" wide. I shall also be using differential on the ailerons which are 50% chord at the tip.
 
I will be posting a couple of pictures shortly.
 
I have to do fairings for this one, like yours.
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All sheet and capstrips added to one wing

Tail parts cut out. Note my Great Planes sanding block. Shapes perfect V s fo the hinges and perfectly round edges on 1/4 and 1/2" sheet.

Joining the wings. This is done with the second wing still pinnin=ed down. It is not unpinned until all shet and cap strips have been added. THis ensures no possibility of warps creeping in.

The centre section being joined. Note that the rear portion of R-1 is not fitted to the second wing until this stage.
 
On wings with less span I normally add the front part of R-1 and leading edge sheet at this stage.
 
In passing building boards a 48" X 12" Melamine covered chipboard with cork tiles glued down. I have two which means I can work on one wing and then change boards to work on the second while the first dries.
 
 
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Not a lot done today. I went flying this afternoon. Great, sunny and flat calm but chilly.
 
I did take a couple of pictures of the airframe pinned together.
Complete airframe just needs wing fairings. In this state it weighs 1 lb. 8 oz.
 
I can live with that.
 
 
 
 
 

Edited By Peter Miller on 16/11/2010 18:32:07

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Posted by Peter Miller on 16/11/2010 18:31:31:
Not a lot done today. I went flying this afternoon. Great, sunny and flat calm but chilly.

 Same here, Peter!  An excellent afternoon - far too nice to spend it over a smouldering building board........
 
The Fournier looks great.  I assume you use a CAD programme  for design, prior to getting the parts cut?  Just asking, like.
 
tim
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Daniel.
Yes, careful wood selection and only using the minimum sizes.
 
Tim.
 
I draw all my plans on an AO size drawing board. I do use Compufoil to design the wings but then tape them down and trace them as part of the plan.
 
I was interested to hear the Red Bull designer on About Anglia last night saying that he also draws his cars out half size on a drawing board and that he didn't use CAD as he like the action of drawing with a  pencil. Amen to that! I have to see the model full size on the drawing board.
 
Stephen.
 
IT all depends on whether RCM&E  will have them cut out. I don't get all mine cut, only the ones with lots of ribs but the magazine often does have them cut anyway.
 
The Fournier will most likely be cut due to all those ribs. The cutting program will have to be corrected as I have found several errors in my drawing. The advantages of building form the actual plan that I send in.
 
The RCMW plans all seem t be made as CNC cut kits. I am pretty sure Swizzle Stick is already one and I believe the V-Witt will be. They have their own cutting machine.

Edited By Peter Miller on 17/11/2010 08:09:46

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Today I spent a lot of sweat starting to make the cockpit canopy.
 
First take a big block of pine. I had to laminate mine.

Then shape it with a power plane (£12 from Aldi a few years ago!)

Then shape up with the good old Surform.

And while we have it in the workmate make a deep slot in the bottom. A future posting will show why that is important.

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