David Ashby - Moderator Posted June 16, 2011 Share Posted June 16, 2011 Just for info, the canopy is now on sale here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john martin 7 Posted June 19, 2011 Share Posted June 19, 2011 Hi could you tell me if there is a CNC kit for this model . John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted June 19, 2011 Author Share Posted June 19, 2011 SLEC cut a kit for me but they had not priced it when I last spoke to them. IT is cut to MY plan and so there could be slight variations betwen that and the one in the magazine. Because of the obvious interest in this plan I imagine that My Hobbystore will arrange for a kit to be available in the future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon B Posted June 19, 2011 Share Posted June 19, 2011 The WW Fournier now comes with ailerons, so I imagine is more aerobatic, although yours looks much beefier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted June 20, 2011 Author Share Posted June 20, 2011 Yes, there is a LOT of difference between the West Wings one and mine. The West Wings model needs an .049, mine needs a .30 four stroke or .25 two stoke. It just depends on what you are looking for as they are really very different. The West Wings model could almsot be classed as a park flyer being very light and quite a lot smaller. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Harrison Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 As a new 'from Plan' Builder, can anyone confirm that, apart from the Rudder & Elevator being Soft Grade Balsa, the rest of the build, apart from Liteply & Wing Spars, on the 'Free Plan', could be from Medium Grade wood? The reason for asking is that I have no stock of wood so I am starting completely from scratch. Going to consider making the model for Electric Power, to maximise air time, so any extra information, i.e Motor & Prop, for use with either 2s or 3s 2200mah Li-pos would be appreciated. How about programming the Ailerons as Flaps or for Crow Braking? Thanks Ron Edited By Ron Harrison on 20/06/2011 10:02:35 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted June 20, 2011 Author Share Posted June 20, 2011 Spars should be very hard, the rest can be medium. The rolled sheet for the tiurtle deck needs to be soft and bendable across the grain. Leading edge sheet meduim. the 1/8" sheet leading edge and leading edge capstrip can be soft. So can the 1/16" sheet across the bottom of the fuselage. Wing tips and cowl soft sheet. Under no circumstance do you program the ailerons as flaps. You will get a king size tip stall. You could add airbrakes or spoillers at the point shown. Don't ask me how, I didn't bother. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon B Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 I think i'll give SLEC a call for the CNC parts soon. a 30 size Fournier does indeed look more to my taste than the wimpier WW version Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Harrison Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 Thanks for the information Peter. The Spoilerons was only a thought that you have now put out to grass. Thanks for that also. Simon B - The WW Fournier is not that bad. Only 14" less Wingspan but it flies a treat on a Leccy Setup and stays aloft almost as long as you want it to. I built the original kit, with the mods for Ailerons. Dropped a box and squashed the wings so bought a Wing Kit. There was no problem as the basic Fuz. design was virtually the same! Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrik Gertsson Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 I just got my July number of RCM&E. I wouldreallylike to build the Fournier FR-4 BUT The draving i got has only Sheet 1 OF 2 printed on both sides............Am i the only one without the wing section of the drawing? /Patrik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrik Gertsson Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 Sorry - found out that a correct drawing will come with the august issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted June 21, 2011 Author Share Posted June 21, 2011 You will get the complete plan in the next issue. look on the Home page and you will see what is happening. There is also a thread all about it. This includes a link to a drawing of Former 2 drawing so you can start building the fuselage while waiting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quadra21 Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 Peter, I've got the correct plans now. Emailed as suggested and within four days Mr Postman had pushed them through my letter box. Not wishing to go down the IC route do you or any other readers have any ideas as to a potential electric set up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted June 23, 2011 Author Share Posted June 23, 2011 This thread should cover what you need to know. I know nothing about electric power This will help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Bontoft Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 The washout wedges look a bit long, Should they be lined up with the thick end flush to the leading edge?Edited By David Ashby - RCME Admin on 07/11/2011 16:10:32 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Bontoft Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 Should the wing washout wedges have the thick end lined up with the l/e, because they look a bit long on the your current Fournir drawing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted June 24, 2011 Author Share Posted June 24, 2011 Washout wedges have the wide end to the trailing edge. Washout is a reduction of the angle of incidence. The length does not matter, the angle does, so long as the flat part of the underside of the wing is resting on the wedges from the main spar back to the TE it will be right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Chaddock Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 SteveNot quite sure what you are referring to. A picture would help. Washout is a 'twist' built into a wing so that its tip has less of an angle to the airflow than the root.This means that with the wedge at the wing tip its thick end should be flush with the trailing edge. If you do it the wrong way it will have 'wash in' and be extremely difficult, if not impossible, to fly. Edited By David Ashby - RCME Admin on 07/11/2011 16:10:49 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taill dragger (2) Posted July 13, 2011 Share Posted July 13, 2011 Duh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted July 13, 2011 Author Share Posted July 13, 2011 Sorry. I can't answer that one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taill dragger (2) Posted July 13, 2011 Share Posted July 13, 2011 The plan was spot on and i will be building soon ,this is a must have .The last comment was in resp onse to those who think some of us are thick lol Berpow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Ashby - Moderator Posted July 25, 2011 Share Posted July 25, 2011 The CNC and wood packs are now available at the plans service. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Harrison Posted August 7, 2011 Share Posted August 7, 2011 My Free Plan Fournier is coming along a treat however, not having access to bending technology, where can I get the Wire Undercarraige from? I could, at a pinch, create something from Wire but, Steerable Noselegs, of which I have a couple, are not long enough where it attaches to the Bulkhead. The Spring Area is the 'Stumbling Block' otherwise I could possible fabricate from an old Trainer Main U/C Leg Suggestions please, and not on a Postcard thanks! Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted August 7, 2011 Author Share Posted August 7, 2011 I used a J.Perkins Straight nose leg. Find someone with a good vice and a hammer and you should be able to do it. Don't worry if it does not bend back. It may not be scale but it will make take offs much easier with less tendacy to tip on its nose on less than perfect ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator Posted August 8, 2011 Share Posted August 8, 2011 Just on the main wheel topic I did wonder if you'd looked into a retractable main wheel Peter. I found this & wondered if it might be suitable....I'm sure the model would take the extra weight..... The RF4 is on my to do list but I will need some time & a nice 5cc 4 stroke first! I quite fancied a retractable wheel on mine!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.