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Making Transfers


Phil May
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Hi Guys
Yet again I'm after some help.
I wish to make a couple of stickers to go on my Renegade I'm in the process of assembling.
I want to make a couple of our club logo.
I have an ink jet printer, a PC and you guys.
Any ideas, again
Thanks
Phil
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If you do a search here on decals or transfers, you'll get some ideas, Phil. I bought some clear inkjet water-slide decal paper from craftycomputerpaper.co.uk., created the design and printed it off. I then gave it about 3-4 thin coats of clear spray acrylic varnish, which stops the ink bleeding, and then applied it as directed, finishing off with a thin spray of varnish to seal the edges.
 
Pete
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I did the same as Pete B.
 
results can be mixed. for the cost of the ink and paper you might price up getting some made for you.
 
the more you buy the cheeper the unit price but if it is the club logo you use you may be able so sell some on to club mates. (just an idea)
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If the logo is a simple, single color job it can be cut with a plotter from solartrim. The tricky bit is getting the artwork into Illustrator. But thats not too bad
 
As well as the method pete mentions using decal paper you can also print it straight on to clear vinyl.
 
I used a sheet of large clear vinyl address labels. This gave me a sheet of club logos to apply as reqd and share with club members.
 
Cheers
Danny
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I am in the process of trying to make transfers/decals.
 
We bought some decal paper from a shop in Leeds. We then could not find it, and so I bought some from CraftyComputerPaper as mentioned above. My first attempt failed. I used the UV proof spray varnish as supplied by the same company. When I put them in water the ink just flowed away.
 
My second attempt is downstairs now, with a lot more varnish coating them. I will try them in water tomorrow, other tasks permitting.
 
Yesterday I found my original purchase. This is a different brand, and claims that you do not need to varnish them before you apply them. They say that you should protect them with varnish after application.
 
I will report back.
 
Plummet
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  • 2 weeks later...
I found that the gloss clear spray varnish from Wilkinsons is ideal for this job, at less than four quid a can it is also far cheaper,it is Wilkinsons own brand 340 grm (12.0 oz) 'Multi-surface Enamel Quick Dry paint' but be wrned it does not like foam, use a clear coat of water based varnish or something to seal the surface and provide a barrier first.

Edited By Terence Lynock on 09/02/2011 20:39:22

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I used to make water slide transfers by drawing and paining the design on the sticky side of what we used to call "licky-sticky" paper which used to be available in a range of sizes and colours.
Coloured dope or enamel for the design after first giving the sticky side a coat of clear dope. When fullly dry use in the normal way for a water slide transfer.
Now I would use a colour printer and waterproof the design before immersion in water.
HTH
Malcolm
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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi,
I can endorse the CraftyComputerPaper transfers qualities. I've made decals for four of my planes recently and it works well. I copy images of the decal I want in to a Word document and can then enlarge or reduce it to suit the scale I need. It also allows you to place the images to maximise the useable space. The paper comes in white or clear backing and inkjet or laser compatible to suit the background and printer type and is simply printed upon in my case with an inkjet printer. When the ink is dry it is given a couple of very light coats of clear to seal the ink (Too much too soon and the ink runs) before using two or three heavier coats to build up the decal. I also use the humbrol decalfix to assist in applying the decal but it is not really necessary if applied carefully. Finally it is sealed with a coat of clear varnish/ laquer.

Adrian

Edited By Ady Hayward on 24/02/2011 19:28:15

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  • 2 weeks later...
I endorse much of what has already been said. Crafty ComputerPaper waterslide and dry application decal paper is superb and they are very helpful if you ring for advice. I search the internet for suitable images to download and have been able to produce some very good ones using the PC and inkjet printer. I like to remove the foreign aircraft registration numbers on ARTFs and replace them with British, but use one of the online suppliers to do this - service and cost are very good, in my experience.
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I found with the decal paper that like Matt said dampen the backing paper rather than immerse it, as it seems like the adhesive disappears into the water and the adhesion is poor. I also put a blob of water on the area I am applying the decal to, which in my experience helps to stop any dry patches under the decal when dry.
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  • 9 years later...

Can I resurrect this thread as want to make up several custom graphics for a solatex covered model and suspect the advice back in 2011 may be improved upon given the new types of vinyl now available given the popularity of car wrapping.

As for the original poster I have a laser printer but also a laser cutter which I assume can be used in a similar manner to a Vinyl Cutter.

So what do I need to buy to get started in making water slide or possibly heat transfers that I could apply with a covering iron.

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  • 1 year later...

KC, this is the graphic I tried to cut on my laser cutter but there must be an intermittent connection as the cut was not very clean so I gave up.  The registration letters and rear tail number worked perfectly though.

 

I use Inkscape to copy in and scale any graphic or picture found on the net, then use an inbuilt tool in Inkscape to convert to a cutter compatible file.

 

What scale is your Sparrowhawk?  About to do some engine runs on my Seagull version of the model, weather permitting.

hawk-24009_1280 (1).jpg

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CCF170322_0006.pdfThanks KC. Good suggestion. I don't know if it is the same graphic. I visited Old Warden back in 2016. Can't remember the Hawk Major.

The colours on the plan state "light brown bird black detail gold beak & name".

However, the main difficulty is that I live in Tasmania. It'll be awhile before I visit again.

 

Andy, I'm using the Dennis Bryant plan  which states the scale as  2 1/4"  =  1 foot.  About 1/5th scale.

Copy of the plan sketch below ....I hope. CCF170322_0006.pdf

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