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007's 'Little Nellie' MK II


Richard Harris
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Little Nellie Resurrected

It's been a while since this thread last updated, so here goes.

For my winter project I wanted to build a Little Nellie, but after spending days scouring the interweb for plans, drawings, top, side and front photos from which I could build a model to no avail. I even contacted the Shuttleworth Collection but they were charging the entrants fee (which I was more than happy to pay) with the additional fee of a supervised photo session for £65.00 ph plus VAT. That was a tad too much for a pensioner. So instead I bought a cheep 1:24 Airfix kit from which I could calculate a 1/4 sized model.

I came across Rich's build thread and videos and contacted Rich to check he was happy for me to add my build. In case anyone want to use my info, please be warned, I no expert in build or design, however I'm good at crashing! and look forward to any helpful feedback during the build. Here goes....airfix model.jpg

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Following Rich's build I started with the crutch. Its made up of 12mm aluminium rod, drilled with 10mm hole to take the 10mm carbon tubing. A friend at my club arranged for the Tig welding which was very handy. 

As a guide, most of my photos are taken on the cutting mat. For scale/dimensions the squares are 10mm

 

tig 1.jpgtig 2.jpgtig 3.jpg

 

The servo mount is made from 1.6mm fibre glass sheet. Can you spot the misaligned hole in the servo mount?

tig and servo mount.jpg

 

Edited By Disciple of Autogyros on 22/10/2020 14:34:33

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Today, I've been working on the mast head.

mast 1.jpg

mast 2.jpg

The universal joint (from e-bay) has an 11mm outer with a 5mm hole at one end and a 4mm hole at the other. The 5mm end has a bolt attached which was then epoxied through the aluminium sleeve (made from the 12 mm ali bar) into the 10mm carbon mast tube. The mast tube is 330 mm long. I may shorten this later in the build though.

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Mike,

Watching with interestsmile d

If you need any info just ask, I still have mine though she more of a hanger queen of late embarrassed

I still plan on drawing something for the mag up in the future, a bit more builder friendly though maybe next year.

If any of the mods see this could you move into the autogyro section please?

20201024_155659.jpg

Rich

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I had to make a change to the tig welded section of the undercarriage as the angle was too high so rather than start all over, I epoxied half of a universal joint inside each side of the crutch so it acts like a hinge point with some Ali rod, which will be inserted within the undercarriage carbon tubing. I'll be able to reduce the angle of the undercarriage struts and fix in place when fitting the suspension arms.

frame 1.jpg

frame 2.jpgframe 3.jpg

frame 4.jpg

frame 5.jpg

 

Edited By Disciple of Autogyros on 26/10/2020 18:11:16

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The engine/suspension mounting plate is made from 1.6 mm GF. It's bolted to the carbon mast. To prevent the crushing effect on the CF tube when bolts are tightened, I inserted 8mm (approx) wooden dowel inside the CF tube at the point where bolts go through. The engine stand-off's are made from 6mm Ali tube and the engine mount is made from 1.6mm GF.

mm2.jpg

mm3.jpg

mm1.jpg

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The rotor head plate for the blades is 1.6mm GF. I made a guess at the measurements for this. It's 50mm wide and 174mm long. The pilot holes for the blade bolts are 60mm from the centre. The flanged bearings has 11mm flange, 8mm o/s dia and 4mm i/s dia. The bearing plates are 1.6mm GF.

Rich,

Question, do you think this is about right?

head 1.jpg

 

I also added a 3mm ply spacer for both baring plates. One can be seen below

head 2.jpg

head 3.jpg

Trial fitting all the bits, it seems to work ok. The bearing spindle is made from 4mm silver steel. I think I'm going to need a longer one though.

head 4.jpg

head 5.jpg

Edited By Disciple of Autogyros on 29/10/2020 16:27:52

Edited By Disciple of Autogyros on 29/10/2020 16:52:39

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Hi Rich,

Thanks for the video and reply. I saw a DVD about Ken Wallis, he had a remarkable life, was very lucky through the war years and a very clever man. It must have been a fantastic experience meeting and talking the man.

Re my question, I just wanted to know if I was on the right track with the rota head dimensions as compared to your Little Nellie. I've not made a "two blader" before so it's a bit guess workish.

Cheers Mike

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Mike,

Sorry for the delay in replying, I will measure my blades later but they are sized for my models mass and CG/ thrust line. I remember testing several different sizes and having to trim them back, the biggest problem with Nellie at this size is you are limited to their length as they get very close to the ground when rolling on take off (if the dimensions of Nellie are kept to exact scale).

The longer the blade the larger the tolerance between CG and Thrust line you can get away with (within reason), so its a bit of balancing act. With a horizontal tail plane fitted this tolerance is not so tight as it acts as a damper, but for me it doesn't quite lock right.

Tim,

I think (but I will check) I didn't use motor offset, if that's right I don't remember why!

Rich

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Hi Rich (and Tim)

No worries, I've not done any blade work as I've plenty to get on with. Like you I'd prefer not to have a tail plane but unlike you I don't have your skill and capability to fly tailless, so I may add a tail to help with stability.

I did a comparison with the 1:24 scale Airfix kit for some initial guidance. Converting the measurements to 1/4 size I get a blade length (tip to bolt hole) of 670 mm and width 44 mm, the width does seem a bit narrow though? That would give a rotor diameter of 1438 mm (or 56.5 inches). I have no idea how much this is going to weigh at this point so I think I'll leave the blades for now but your wisdom would be welcomed.

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I trial fitted all the main frame components but it's made me have a re-think on the position of the servos. As they now are, there will be some interference between the motor mount front plate and the servo rods to the head Tee bar.

frame 6.jpg

frame 7.jpg

frame 8.jpg

I've incorporated a kind of suspension to the rear wheels by inserting some silicon fuel pipe (as a dampener) inside the upper carbon tube with the lower carbon rod acting as a kind of ram. It might work!

sus 1.jpg

sus 2.jpg

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Tim,

Autogyros don't need a mast that's tilted back, the only reason I have done this on my designs is that it makes them easier to set the rearward tilt going 90 degrees to the mast which is around 5 degrees for 3 blades. It also helps achieving a good CG without the need for a ridiculously long nose, personally I think it looks better tilted back but would spoil Nellie.

Rich

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  • 2 weeks later...

The pod/ fuselage has been a bit of a challenge, as I don't have enough suitable foam to carve it from, so I used balsa planks over a some formers. The end result is not great but I can live with it, and it's light enough. I still need to rub it down a bit prior to painting.

pod 1.jpg

pod 2.jpg

pod 5.jpg

I carved the nose cone from the last of my pink foam stock. I think I'll have just enough to carve the fuel tank and rotor head cover. The gaps in the balsa planking was filled using a mixture of Talc and non shrinking dope mixed into a paste. The resulting filler is easy to work with and when cured easy to rub down to a very smooth finish and smells great (bonus), I then glassed it, but as yet I've not completed the pre painting prep.

pod 8.jpg

pod 9.jpg

Glassing isn't one of my strengths, so it needs some rubbing. I may be able to live with it though. We'll see.

pod10.jpg

pod 11.jpg

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