Richard Harris Posted July 13, 2011 Author Share Posted July 13, 2011 Andy, Yep feeling 80% better now thanks. Yes, gone with the standard head set up on this one as I wanted to keep the fuselage width narrow. I would have had to fatten up the fuselage to get the 2 servos in with control arms for the load share head. I did draw it that way but it just didn't look correct. Any one who thinks we are talking bananas, load share is basically set up in an elevon mix. It is a stronger set up to the head but you need the room to get the throw using longer servo arms. When using a 3 bladed head more roll throw is needed with clarke Y aerofoil blades (the more lift the blades create the lesser amount is needed). Put a 2 bladed head on and the tilt needed left and right is reduced by at least half , but it is a lot trickier to set up. I have had a change of plan today, I think I will electrify it which means my cowl is too long. So I will machine up some motor spacers to make the difference up. Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Harris Posted July 14, 2011 Author Share Posted July 14, 2011 Made up the spacers first thing and have roughly mounted the motor I think I may well have enough room to fit the ESC inside the cowl somewhere which will be a bonus. Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lima Hotel Foxtrot Posted July 14, 2011 Share Posted July 14, 2011 Richard, that is a fantastic looking aircraft. It looks like it's sprung straight from the pages of Dan Dare! Very well done that man. Maybe try and get a plan in the mag...? It would make a nice change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foamie Dave Posted July 14, 2011 Share Posted July 14, 2011 Yep, cracking looking model mate..a bit R3-ish which cant be bad !! I second / third the plan idea, definitely something a bit different . Great work mister ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Harris Posted July 14, 2011 Author Share Posted July 14, 2011 Cheers gents, but I cannot remember Dan Dare too young!..lol Made a bit of a boo boo, what I thought I purchased from the LMS was M3 x 3mm ball joints. Turns out the M3 is infact M4, so I have had to 'adapt' my rods to suit by silver soldering M4 cap heads onto each end of the 3mm welding push rod wire that I have used. Looks like they are some kind of model car steering ball joints, so should be more than up to the job (probably better). I also got the wood to make up the wheel spats so will do this in the morning before work (the foam and liquid wings ones I made keep cracking due to a few unforeseen landings!). Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Harris Posted July 14, 2011 Author Share Posted July 14, 2011 Quick Google search and now I am on the same wave length Lima! Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hooper Posted July 14, 2011 Share Posted July 14, 2011 Richard, Having seen all your models fly so convincingly at the Walsall bash, I really do feel that you've hit upon the ideal design recipe for workable autogyros, and that you really should get some plans together for publication. tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken anderson. Posted July 15, 2011 Share Posted July 15, 2011 rich-i'm with tim on the putting a plan or two in the mag after seeing your 'little nellie and webbit twist' etc flying at the green acre's do.............. think i might put it to young asher's to send round a posse to get you........... ken anderson ne...1. rich harris/fan club........HTP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Harris Posted July 15, 2011 Author Share Posted July 15, 2011 Sorry gents, I was a bit camera happy this morning! A bit boring but just a few photos of the spats I have made this morning. Centre laminate is 25mm thick soft balsa with the 2 outers 6mm thick and a 3mm ply mount. These had 3mm captive nuts added first before gluing into position and are mounted on a separate hole in the UC. Then 'hell for leather' rubbing down outside before 'her down stairs' hung out the washing! And the Panther with its 'Paws' fitted roughly One final photo of the head and its control rods, only loosely fitted Next up will be the fitting of the rudder servo and its snake, then get the fits of my hatches better and rub it all down ready for covering, I job I hate doing! plus I have no idea of a colour scheme. Rich Edited By Richard Harris on 15/07/2011 11:54:29 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BILL PETTIT Posted July 15, 2011 Share Posted July 15, 2011 A Fan Club, That sounds good I'll head up the over seas chapter. But fellas we need the main person of interest to contribute to the cause with a blue print or two don't you think? Rich she looks long slender and fast. Ready for time trials on the salt flats for a worlds land speed record. Covering those side rails will take away from her beauty so you need to add some pin-stripping down the side to keep it slim and trim. You are coming into your own with this one everyone will want one parked in their stable.Must have PLANS !! Chapter President US division. Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Elliot Posted July 15, 2011 Share Posted July 15, 2011 Hi Rich Thats coming along really nicely. I know you were questioning the size of the rudder but it looks spot on in proportion now more parts are added. Those wheel spats set it off very well. Bill I see what you mean ...it looks like its going fast standing still !! CheersRich Edited By Richard Elliot on 15/07/2011 21:28:45Edited By Richard Elliot on 15/07/2011 21:29:08 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Harris Posted July 15, 2011 Author Share Posted July 15, 2011 Bill, I see what you mean about pin stripes..hmmmm. I am thinking kind of Gee Bee racer style? maybe even, dare I say it ORANGE! Rich, If you look at the arc at the top of the fuselage then at the bottom they flow through to the rudder. Where they intersect was about 50mm further back than where I shortened the rudder. But it still looks long! saying that it is growing on me, it will be easy enough to make a couple of extra rudders outlines up out of card just to see if alters things. But you know me , I worry to much about minor things! Wont get much done this weekend, its my sons 10th birthday tomorrow...10!! that crept up a bit quick! Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BILL PETTIT Posted July 16, 2011 Share Posted July 16, 2011 Rich: Orange would be nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Nash Posted July 16, 2011 Share Posted July 16, 2011 Hi Rich How about this for a colour scheme? AndyEdited By Andy Nash on 16/07/2011 22:28:26 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Harris Posted July 16, 2011 Author Share Posted July 16, 2011 Hi Andy, Yes that's what I was thinking of, something along those lines. Will make a start on the covering hopefully tomorrow, then I can make the blades once I have a good idea of its AUW. Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gyrocopter Posted July 17, 2011 Share Posted July 17, 2011 Hi Rich, I was starting to think that progress was slow and then I found page two! looking good and although I see what you say about the length it just looks so racey, I can see this doing some serious pylon racing. I know this started out as a messy glow engine project but I'm sure it will be much better with electrickery. No nasty exhausts poking out to spoil its streamline looks. How is the weight distribution to achieve the hang angle? Good luck with my pet hate... covering. Chas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Harris Posted July 17, 2011 Author Share Posted July 17, 2011 Chas, Glad you feel the same way about covering! the weight distribution at the moment seems to be ok. Maybe a touch too nose heavy but I have still to install the tailwheel and rudder servo. I can hopefully move things about inside once completed. Made a start on covering the fuselage this morning, also covered the wheel spats. I am trying LietTex this time, seems to shrink and stick really well, kind of like solarfilm but not as temperature sensitive to burning holes.. Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Harris Posted July 19, 2011 Author Share Posted July 19, 2011 Added a bit of green trim to try and break up the orange, will also add some kind of decal just not sure yet. I now have a good indication of the final weight and will start to make up the blades blanks later on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Harris Posted July 19, 2011 Author Share Posted July 19, 2011 This is the bit I enjoy doing, making the blades! The LE is hardwood, in this case a piece of 6mmx20mm pine (I have not used this before). This is epoxied to medium hard 6mm balsa sheet (when the balsa was bought I tried to get 2 sheets about the same weight and grain), I just use packing tape to hold every thing in place whilst the glue goes off. The blanks are then cut out and sanded so they are all the same shape A clarke Y aerofoil is used on autogyro blades so this is drawn onto one of the ends, wedges will be sanded out first off. I draw lines right down the length of the blades as sanding reference marks as I remove the wood. That's as far as I have got right now,I will attack them later on with the sander, I hope I am not going on too much! Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BILL PETTIT Posted July 19, 2011 Share Posted July 19, 2011 Rich: You never ramble on too much because I for one learn something new with every one of you builds. THANKS RICH !!! Love the look you know how I feel about ORANGE. Regards Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Harris Posted July 19, 2011 Author Share Posted July 19, 2011 Wedges of wood have been removed Then the aerofoil section was sanded in These will be sanded smooth as I balance them. The cordwise balance was found first by sticking a pin each end of the blade (parallel) of which it was marked on the root of the blade. This is the position the mounting bolt will be centred on for its mount, its final position will be a marked from the tip inwards after the reinforcing plates have been added. Then the length way balance point found by balancing each blade on a piece of triangle section balsa, its position marked on to each blade. These are generally all different but it is best to get them to match each other as close a possible. As I finish sanding I will sand small amounts off the 2 blades with their CG closest to the root and match them up with no 1 blade shown below. When I have done this I will add the root strengtheners top and bottom of the blade and go though the same process again. It seems a bit long winded but a set of balanced blades is a good thing, it reduces vibration which reduce the load on servos and the spindle shaft/bearings. Just like on a fixed wing, the wing is one of the most important components. Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Harris Posted July 20, 2011 Author Share Posted July 20, 2011 I have added the reinforcements to the root of the blades, the bottom is 2mm birch ply and the top is 1.6mm GF sheet. The mounting holes have been drilled on the cord wise CG position. Just need to balance then together and I can then cover them. Next up will be to make a triangular GF plate to mount them too. Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Harris Posted July 21, 2011 Author Share Posted July 21, 2011 I have installed the free wheeling gearbox on top of the Gimbal, this one is an Irvine 05. I am always on the look out for these gearboxes, astro, master airscrew etc. If anyone does have one kicking around in a draw I would be very interested. On one of my smaller models I used a burnt out out runner motor, removed the outer casing and the armature magnets and windings. This seems to work equally well and the magnets do come in handy for hatches etc. I will fit the flapping plate later on and the blades. Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben B Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 Brilliant idea to use a burnt out out-runner, they have nicely ball-raced shafts and good mounting points. Good thinking! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Nash Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 Rich That is peach, or is it an orange! lol You know what I'm saying very nice! That hang-angle might be fun to achieve. But then the rotor bearing could be moved back perhaps. Good bit of planning I see. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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