Ruston Posted November 18, 2011 Share Posted November 18, 2011 A bit more progress, control tubes installed: Steerable tail wheel assembly: Top and bottom rear decking fitted and shaped: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SA Allan Posted December 9, 2011 Share Posted December 9, 2011 Any more progress Ruston ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 Posted by SA Allan on 09/12/2011 04:59:35: Any more progress Ruston ? No more progress on the plane but instead some progress on a pilot:(click on the photo if it displays distorted) This is an Aces of Iron figure from the States and is very nicely sculpted; as you can see there is plenty of detail. At 1/7th scale, he'll be a little large for my FW190 but just right if you are building the 60 inch wingspan version. I have painted him using Vallejo acrylics.Edited By Ruston on 13/12/2011 19:52:57 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shane Sunday Posted December 26, 2011 Share Posted December 26, 2011 Sorry for the late reply. I think If you plan then cut using tissue you can't go far wrong. I use a soft brush to appy Poly C and with a medium to heavy weight tissue I lay the tissue and brush the Poly C on. Keep a sharp knife and scissors handy for any additional trimming you might need to do. Complex curves just need to be thought through. Sometimes I'll lay the tissue over the area as this will help me decide where I need to cut. Also keep in mind that even if your tissue overlaps an area and looks messy it can always be sanded smooth later. I keep a hair dryer handy when using Poly C and use it on medium heat and flow to dry in between coats. You are not trying to fill a weave so 4 to 5 coats should do it. I've found that Poly C gets harder over time. I've been surprised how hard it has been after a week and then again after two weeks. I think someone said it's like the industrial floor wax they use on gymnasiums. Dunno if this is true but it makes sense. The build is looking fantastic by the way. That pilot looks great too. keep them coming. Hope this helps Shane Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted December 26, 2011 Share Posted December 26, 2011 Hi Ruston, make sure you heed the warnings of sealing the balsa before using the PolyC it is water based and will warp the sheeted areas for sure. Two or three coats of sanding sealer should do it. Looking great btw Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 Thanks to Shane and Danny for your replies, I think I'll practice the PolyC application on some scraps of balsa first before commiting to the model. I've made a start on the wings and have one just about ready to be sheeted: I've made a couple of minor deviations from the plan. As I will not be installing flaps, I have repositioned the rear most spar so that it runs parallel to the main spar rather than parallel to the TE. This has the advantage that I will now get the sheeting to join over the spar rather than having an unsupported butt joint. This photo shows the spar layout: I have also moved the aileron servo mount slightly foward so that it is also supported by the main spar: There is a bit of trimming and sanding to do, then on with the sheeting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucksboy Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 Ive just received my mouldings and have a query, the battery/gun hatch is supposed to fit under the cowl. However, even off the plane they dont fit together that well,, when trial fitted they dont fit at all. The cowl is round and the gun hatch is angular, do i just force them to fit?I'll post photos later to explain more easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucksboy Posted January 7, 2012 Share Posted January 7, 2012 Here's the photo I promised, the round cowl is to the left and the gun covers to the right. They have not yet been accurately cut down in the photo but they don't fit any better when trimmed. The centre bit between to two troughs is easy but the high angular bits to the left and right seem to be a problem. This is my first build from plan, I've always gone for pre cut ribs before. I need to re shape the area in front of the canopy. I sanded it to a round section before receiving the canopy. The blue snake is for the elevator, I'll use pull pull wires for the rudder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted January 10, 2012 Share Posted January 10, 2012 Hi Bucksboy, your build is looking good. Based on the photos in the RCM&E article (page 14), it looks as though the fit of the cowl and hatch does leave a slight gap. It looks as though the hatch is intended to sit lower relative to the cowl than you have them aligned in your photo? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucksboy Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 Ruston, Thanks for that, my first reaction was to agree and move the the cross member under the cowl down. But, there's always a but, the position of the cross member is fixed as it sits on the stringers. I think some good old fashioned 'bodging' is required. Luckily the part is not structural, its a battery hatch and the batteries will be restrained with velcro and more. I'll think on for a bit before I tackle this area, I'm nearly done with the wings so there is still lots to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glyn R Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 Just getting sorted for a Tony N FW190. Planning to use a Turnigy 4260 500kv motor with a Turnigy 80 amp ESC.This motor is rated at 1475 watts so power should be Ok. I notice on the plan Tony recommends 2X4000 mah 3s. I thought about a single 6s it looks to me as though it would fit in quite nicely. Anybody see why I should use 2X3s instaed of 1X6s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glyn R Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 Posted by Danny Fenton on 26/12/2011 11:22:25:Hi Ruston, make sure you heed the warnings of sealing the balsa before using the PolyC it is water based and will warp the sheeted areas for sure. Two or three coats of sanding sealer should do it. Looking great btw Cheers Danny I have used Skincrylic on veneered foam wings for glassing, Caused all sorts of warps in the veneer. I glassed a fuse with the same material results were great easy to use and gave a great finish for paint. I would be happy using Skincrylic or Poly-C on fully skinned built up wings. Danny is right though the sheeting can warp if you dont seal it first.Edited By Glyn R on 13/01/2012 18:21:38Edited By Glyn R on 13/01/2012 18:22:48 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucksboy Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 I'm skinning the underside of the wings today. Then its time for the wing fillet. Slowly but surely.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Donnison Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 Hi all I have just received the FW 190 plan and CNC pack and am ready to start the build. I though I would start with the tailplane first. Building notes on the the plan suggest building directly on the plan - however, only one half of the tailplane is printed. Checking Tony's build photos, I see that his plan has the whole tailplane printed. Any one else found this problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ron dudson 1 Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 Hi PHIL,my plan has complete tail plane printed all be it one half is dotted.regards RON Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucksboy Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 I think that there is a difference between the free plan that came with the magazine and the one you can purchase from Tony Nijhuis Designs. Due to space and money limitations the free plan is more economical with the quality of paper and layout etc. For the first time ever I've tried to build this model completely from the free plan and cut every part myself. Luckily I bought two copies of the magazine, the constant checking, folding and unfolding was too much for the first copy and it disintegrated (despite the Selotape!). I hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Donnison Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 Thanks for the replies Ron and Bucksboy. Any photos of your builds by the way? Unfortunately my plan has no dotted other tailplane half. I bought the plan from My Hobby Store, together with the CNC pack. I have just ordered the magazine as a back issue, so maybe the free plan is the better one! My plan came on 4 sheets. Here is the tailplane part, on the edge of the paper. Am I missing something? Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ron dudson 1 Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 Hi phil yes you are missing something,i bought mine from TONY ,on his plan being twice the sheet size he shows complete tail plane,On your above view regards RON. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucksboy Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 Phil, Your plan looks identical to my free plan but printed on better paper. Build over the plan but cut the spars to the full width. Then move the unbuilt half over the plan to complete. I must admit that I'd have thought the bought copy would be a bit better. Photos to come soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Donnison Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 Well, I received my back issue RCME special today with the free 190 plans. The plan I paid £22.50 for from My Hobby Store is exactly the same, but on better paper and printed on one side only. It seems that the plan supplied by Tony for £20 is more detailed. The tailplane is one example, I assume there are many others. Here is a screenprint of a photo from Tony's build photos showing the whole tailplane drawing. I will buy the full plan from Tony as I need as much building help as possible, but I really think that I have been short changed by My Hobby Store. I wonder if Tony knows about the difference? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Donnison Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 I have been in touch with Tony and have ordered a set of his plans. It seems that MHS prefer to print on smaller sheets of paper. Completely understandable for the magazine issue, but just plain mean for the £22.50 plan. In future, I will order everything directly from Tony as I would like to get them as he drew them - I think MHS should make it clear that the plan that they charge for is no different to the free one and is not the same as the one available from the designer. Not a good start to my winter build! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucksboy Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 My 190 is coming on nicely and I've decided this will be my first real electric. Tony shows the Li Po batteries but I've read about the A123 batteries. These can be built in and charged in the plane. The trouble is I know very little about them. I was going to buy the recommended set up to ensure everything worked well. However, I think its worth looking at these A123 batteries before I spend my money. Is there anyone out there who could recommend what I need? I assume the motor and ESC remain the same? Its headed to weigh in at 8 1/2 lbs in total. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucksboy Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 Well, the wing fixings are done so its on with the flaps. I've built the flaps from lite ply with balsa ribs. These are now hinged onto the wing temporarily. Next will be shaping the leading edge and fairing everything in. Once done I'll cover it all with fibre glass. I've already covered the flaps with glass and then it will be operated by a servo under a cover that can be seen in the wing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucksboy Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 Well, I've taken a gamble and bought a cheap pair of electric retracts for £10.50 each from E Bay. First impressions seem good but only time will tell if they keep going. They don't come with legs so I've bought a 5 mm piano wire to make my own. The wheel wells will be opened up as will where they fix into the ply I've built into the wing. Hopefully I'll get around to glassing soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garry G Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 Is there a component list for all the CNC parts so I can work out how much has to be cut out by hand? The wood list on the RCM&E free plan seems to indicate that there's a lot of extra work to do here. What do I need 18 sheets of 75mm x 2.4mm(3/32" balsa for? Garry G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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