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Mam'selle.......


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Hi Pete, err..... I do go on a bit, but will try not to reach RCGroup levels

Anyway the little PAW .8 arrived

 
Lovely little thing, and perfect for what I want. The case is pitted and the backplate marked, where somebody used the wrong tool at some stage. This means the collectors didn't bump the price up, and it also means it has gone from a modeller that ran it to another that will run it.
I am assured it ran a couple of tankfuls through before it was shipped to me. It certainly has great compression and the bearings feel lovely and smooth but not loose.
I have some D1000 on the way to give it energy.
 
Not as nice looking as a shiny new Turnigy...... but nearly
 
Cheers
Danny
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Posted by Danny Fenton on 10/11/2011 12:47:22:
 
Not as nice looking as a shiny new Turnigy...... but nearly
 
It will smell better when its running..............
 
Can recommend the Southern Modelcraft diesel too Danny......much cheaper than the Model Technics stuff.....remember to keep the lid on the fuel tin as much as you can too.....the ether will evaporate in a trice if you let it!!!!
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Hi Steve, a burnt leccy motor really doesn't smell nice I have to agree with you on that one. Diesels sound and smell lovely on the otherhand
 
Can anybody advise on a suitable fuel tank that will withstand diesel? I don't want to mess around with making a tin one, is there anything comercially available? I seem to remember Diesel ate silicone tubing and you need neoprene???

I have spent a while studying the plans, and think I have it sorted in my head. There are a c few nice techniques used so should be interesting. I will try and clear the board in the next few days and get building.

Cheers
Danny
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Danny I used this tank in my Mini Tyro.....it is a bit different to the one actually shown in the picture as it has black plastic screw on top with holes for the pipes.
 
You can use tygon tubing but its a bit bulky & stiff (oo-er Vicar)...particularly for the clunk tube in such a small tank. Silicone is a no-no cos it swells up (Vicar)...
 
I used this rubber tubing & its been fine....no holes or perishing.......
 
Another tip I would share with you is to get a small syringe for pumping the fuel into the engine...I use a 10ml syringe with a blunt needle (the sort you can use to refill printer ink cartridges) & this works great in sucking up the fuel & squirting it in the tank & also for that all important exhaust port prime......
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LOL I had heard of it but hadn't looked it up. I have now and it sounds a bit of fun. Though I dare say a few will take it seriously
Here are the rules for those that are interested, perhaps we could twist it slightly for Greenacres, to be an RC event, penalties for any seconds over or under the set flight duration?

I just want to be part of that Saturday evening chaos, to me it epitomises the British Nationals. (That and the hallowed scale line)
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A 2 oz tank for a small diesel is huge . check out the flitehook website for small syringe type tanks which will let you calibrate how much fuel to put in for a reasonable flight time
 
flitehook are here www.flitehook.net

Edited By John Laird on 11/11/2011 22:36:13

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Danny,
not sure how long a small diesel will run on 2 ozs but its going to be long. The Dart 0.5ccs runs for about 1/2 min on the bottom 1/8th of its tank and on free flight thats more than enough for my mature leggies. At the end of a 2oz tank run, the model is going to be covered in oily exhaust unless you can pipe the exhaust away.
 
I forgot you were going RC on this - I intend to fly my debutante ( about to start it ) rc assist and unless I get some thermals, I doubt if I will fly it more than about 5 mins - my span of attention for small models
 
Ask John Hook how long he thinks the paw will run on his syringe type tanks - I would think the larger one would be more than adequate
 
john
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Danny,
 
From my miniscule experience of watching the free flighters at the Nats and Old Warden, they measure their engine runs in seconds, not minutes.
 
I'd suggest building an RC-friendly tank inside the fuselage, and maybe a calibrated freeflight tank fitted nearby. All you'd need to do then is to swop the fuel line from one tank to the other. Or you could get really posh and fit a tee-piece and switching tap....
 
tim
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Hi John and Tim, I think I will probably have had enough after just a few minutes tbh. So I think I will use something simple and calibrated under the cowl.
 
Chris Bott sent me this photo and it may be about right....
 

The syringe rubber is fitted but a hole is drilled for air to replace the sucked up fuel

Thanks for the advice chaps, really appreciate it

Cheers
Danny
 

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Danny,
 
I've got some FF and CL tanks hanging around in the shed PM me and I'll pop em in the post.
 
 
I used to fly with a chap who flew his Mam'selle on a mills .75 and with the motor running rich on a backed off comp screw would circle for a long time on 1/4 of the 3oz tank fitted to the mills. I think he used a KK 7x3 prop.
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Danny,
Re tank size for your PAW .80. I have the same engine on a power pod with a 7 x 6 nylon prop. The tank is about 10cc capacity and gives a power run of over six minutes - more than enough to take a six foot span glider up to a very good height.
 
With C/L models, I used to use a mustard tin tank, about 50cc, and got up to fifteen minutes with a PAW 2.49 and a bit more with an ED Super Fury of 1.5 cc capacity.
 
Malcolm
 
Edited for typos

Edited By Malcolm Fisher on 12/11/2011 21:38:48

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Thought I had better get cracking before Tim has a go at me

All the parts layed out ready, considering this is a part kit it contains a great many bits. Even the centre section sheeting is included
 
I selected a delicous piece of 3/16 for stripping into spars and another nearly as delicous piece of 1/4 from my scrap bin for the leading and trailing edge stock.
 
Don't know if you have ever seen one of these, you dial the angle and sand the joint. Even I can get accurate joints with this
 
Centre section clamped with the smallest I have
 
And there we have the centre section done
 
And we seem to now have a wing panel....

Playing with my new lens.....
 
The leading edge is supposed to be split into two and curved then glued, a cunning idea but it was a bit stiff. I cut into 4 and the curve was easy peesy.

I propped up the wing so that the dihedral brace was flat on the board

see flat
 
 
This time I slit the leading edge into thirds, I think this was the optimum and worked nicely.
 
I will use this trick again
 
Included in the CNC kit is this handy dihedral gauge, and rib steady, accurately cut to 90 degrees. A lovely touch.
 
And all but for a bit of sanding we have the wing.
 
I must just say that I have never used a cnc cut kit, and never one from Falcon, it is superb and the fit is absolutely lovely. A few pieces need a tickle removing here and there, but on the whole I was extremely impressed
 
Tally ho! ooops wrong thread......
 
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Excellent build Danny....looking really good......I particularly like the Miter Sander....methinks I will look for one of those.....
 
The split LE to enable bending is a great idea too.....consider it "nicked" & stored in the old grey matter.....
 
I know what you mean about a CNC kit...they really are good aren't they? I had to keep reminding myself it was actually balsa wood I was assembling not aircraft grade aluminium....
 
Just going back to the tank size I find my 2 oz tank gives me just over 10 minutes flying time in the Mini Tyro (1cc diesel)......this doesn't include starting & walking from the "starting bench" to a point on the edge of the field where I can chuck the thing.....
 
Worth remembering that it might be a 2 oz bottle but by the time you've assembled it with filling/vent tubes plus a clunk & feed line then all this gubbins (technical term) reduces the overall fuel capacity of the tank....
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Thanks Steve, I assumed you "old hands" would have seen the split leading edge trick. Not my idea, it was on the plan

I have used a laser cut kit before, but somehow this is nicer to use, the joints are cleaner. Perhaps the laser charred edges are a little iritating on the eye

I think I am looking at 1oz tank at the most, as I will be knocking the power back. Its a very good point, I was not thinking about the tubing and pipework, it will as you say alter the fuel capacity. I am still concerned that the PAW .8 is physically too big for the model, but even with light radio gear it may still benefit from the power, comments?

The mitre came from the States, Phils Hobbies and only took a week I was well impressed! $23 plus $11 postage. You could make one fairly easily tbh but I am lazy
 
Cheers
Danny
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I think it will be fine Danny....37" & 14 oz all up weight (with R/C) should be a good match...especially if you have an elevator to control the rate of ascent....0.8cc isn't a lot after all. My MT is 32", weighs 15oz & has a 1cc diesel.....my old version has a 1.5cc Sabre in it & that was fine too. The recommended motor for the original MT was a 0.5cc Dart & it was designed for rudder only with an Elmic escapment!!!
 
Obviously its up to you regarding the fuel tank but just remember you don't have to fill it to the brim every time.....with your syringe you can control how much goes in......perhaps do some fuel economy tests on the engine & see how long a 1oz tank will last.....
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