Lee Damms Posted November 27, 2011 Share Posted November 27, 2011 Great job Andy, I'm looking forward to a photo of the finished aircraft prior to covering. Forgot to mention last post really like your idea of doing leading edges, is this something you've been doing for a long time.? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Green Posted November 30, 2011 Author Share Posted November 30, 2011 Hi Lee This is my preferred method of doing leading edges, unless the designer has a better way. Funny thing I didn't much like the method shown on the Enigma kit,and did them this way to. On with the build - work has gotten in the way, and its got cold. Rear sheeting to tie in with the rib capping. I did not read the plan properly and started sheeting the bottom of the wing, and it was too late before I realised that only the top was to be sheeted This will make my wing 1/16 deeper that required, but hey ho. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bandit Posted November 30, 2011 Share Posted November 30, 2011 Hi Andy, Looking very good, TBH I would and will sheet the top and bottom of the wing purely because it makes good sense. Cheers, Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Green Posted December 11, 2011 Author Share Posted December 11, 2011 Thats it, Too cold to work in the workshop now. I have the wings nearly done. There wont be much progress now, not until it gets warmer. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Green Posted December 14, 2011 Author Share Posted December 14, 2011 Looking at the wing to fuselage joining now, the first thing I do is fix the wing in the correct position. With the fuselage clamped in my Great Mate I can jiggle things around to get it right even the incidence. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Green Posted January 10, 2012 Author Share Posted January 10, 2012 Back to building - I have made a 1/8 sub rib from light ply giving a total of 1/4 lite ply to mount the servo, which is fixed with 4 standard screws. The servo extension lead with heat shrink to hold the plug / socket together, the wires are pulled through using the string which I installed before LE sheeting. I have used extra wide capping stips to further strengthen the mount, and on the bottom, to provide the servo exit. Currently there is no provision to easily replace the servo, but in all honestly how often have most of us had to change a servo, and it will be an easy matter to remove a panel of covering to get it them. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Green Posted January 10, 2012 Author Share Posted January 10, 2012 The last thing to figure out is the wing bolt mount in the fuselage. I thought I could use the existing framework and just strengthen it, but there is nowhere on the wing where I can put the bolt where they will line up with a suitable place on the fuselage. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Billings Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 Hi Andy, any progress, looking to see how you are going to bolt the wing as that is the way I want to go. Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Green Posted January 23, 2012 Author Share Posted January 23, 2012 Hi Tony. Not much progress at all the last week, just out of hospital (See Here) But have had plenty of time to think about it. The problem is how to tie the cross piece that takes the captive nuts, to the rest of the fuselage. If I was doing it again I's make sure there was a former at the same place, but I'm too far past that now. I have some ideas on how to do this but wont know for sure until I get on with it. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Billings Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 Hi Andy, just read that post, I hope you are well on the mend mate, good luck and don't rush it, I was a year off work with my bypass and was going stir crazy, but it was the right thing to do, back at work and fighting fit as they say. Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Green Posted February 7, 2012 Author Share Posted February 7, 2012 Had a go in the shed yesterday, not so cold as it has been, and the heater was able to take the sting out the cold. I've been thinking about how to join the wings to the fuselage since coming out of hospital, and this is my solution: As I've said before, had I thought about this sooner I'd have moved the fuselage former forward a bit do I could join into the fuselage at that point. But I am where I am. I have already fitted compression blocks in the wing, so the wing bolts will have to line up with these. To strengthen up the fuselage in this area I have fitted a 1/8 light ply floor which will also take the rudder & throttle servos & switch, and tied the top into this area with 1/4 sheet behind the cabin. You can just see in this picture where I have slotted the fueslage side to take the 1/8 Ply & 1/8 lite Ply wing mounting plate. This mounting plate will take the 2 captive nuts for the wing bolts. Wing plate in position. Its gone cold again, so this is it until it's a tad warmer. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Green Posted February 12, 2012 Author Share Posted February 12, 2012 Managed to get some shed time today, got the Tufnol engine mount made, with 1.5 degrees of right thrust, some triangle filets to tie in the wing plate to the fuselage sides, and the throttle snake. The throttle snake was harder than it needed to be as I forgot to do it during the build, and had to struggle with the nose complete. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Billings Posted February 14, 2012 Share Posted February 14, 2012 Hi Andy, I like that wing plate idea of yours, I will copy that when I finaly get to start my build, just got to work out how to access the beast of a battery I have for mine. Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Green Posted February 14, 2012 Author Share Posted February 14, 2012 Thanks Tony. If I was doing it again I'd move the former position forward so I could tie the plate into the former rather than have to build the extra strength elsewhere. I didn't have a photo yesterday, but here's the motor on the Tufnol mount. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Green Posted February 15, 2012 Author Share Posted February 15, 2012 With the engine mounted on its Tufnol base, the next thing to address is how to fix it to the bearers, it will not be posible to get nuts on the bottom, nor hold the screw from below, and the thought of self tapper is not a good one in my opinion. I'm using an old control line trick where the screws are hidden behind cowl cheeks on a profile model and soldered a piece of piano wire across the screw heads, this will let me tighten the nuts without a problem. I'm using an old control line trick where the screws are hidden behind cowl cheeks on a profile model and soldered a piece of piano wire across the screw heads, this will let me tighten the nuts without a problem. There is still some shaping & sanding to do on the nose block. Don't forget there are hi res photos on my website Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Etheridge 1 Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 Andy, As othesr have suggested it's good to see real craftsmanship going into your Super 60 and the other Super 60 build. The Super 60 I acquired and rebuilt last year was an absolute nightmare and quite frankly it was difficult getting any satisfaction out of rectifying poor workmanship. I have yet to sort out the wings so as I have mentioned elsewhere I am borrowing my Junior 60 wings for now to fly the Super 60. I introduced two snake tubes either side of the fuel tank so I can fit various engine types and had options of an Enya SS40,Merco 29 and PAW 29. Most of my engine experience in the past has been with diesels and I still have problems with running some of my 2 stroke glow motors consistently. I was therefore looking forward to using the PAW but was put off by an article that suggested it would produce a fair measure of vibration. However I have a bearer plate constructed for it and may well try it out in the future. The PAW you have shown in your photographs looks bigger than a 29 -is it a 40? Regards, MJE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Green Posted February 15, 2012 Author Share Posted February 15, 2012 Hi Mike, and thank you for your kind comments. The engine is a PAW 29, I'll be looking to be running it on a 13*6 Wood prop, (as wide a blade as I can find), to dampen it down. I like the idea of running 2 throttle cables, as most if not all glows engines I have seen have the throttle on the other side. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bandit Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 Andy, How did you get those in with the bottom nose sheeting and triangle stock inplace. Or were they already in before the sheeing was fitted. Cheers, Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Green Posted February 15, 2012 Author Share Posted February 15, 2012 The bottom of the bearers are open, so I just pushed them up from the inside, The trouble is I couldn't to that with the engine in place. They have to come out for fuel proofing, its not a difficult job. Had some time today so I'll update later on. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Green Posted February 16, 2012 Author Share Posted February 16, 2012 Holes bored to take the wing mounting 'Hard points' I have to be honest here, I drilled the wing mounting holes in the wrong place, this is my recovery. With the wing jigged up and clamped onto the fuselage I drilled through the hard points to the plate, and fitted the captive nuts. I don't rely on the spikes to hold them in, I use epoxy as well. This Heath Robinson contraption you see is a way to tighten the nut and pull it into the plate. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Green Posted February 16, 2012 Author Share Posted February 16, 2012 I couldn't resist in putting it all together. It just needs a final sand, and make the ailerons. The final sand will have to wait until I get outdoors. It can get a bit messy. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Billings Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 Coming together very nicely Andy. Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 What a great idea for the engine mount bolts on the bearers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Green Posted February 22, 2012 Author Share Posted February 22, 2012 Some scrap wood to make the hinge points stronger. Both of these are now ready for covering. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Djay Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 Hi Andy. a pic of mine I built last year from The BB kit, with ailerons. I made mine with a bolt on wing as well and fixed tail. it is powered by a 26 year old os48 fs and flies lovely. Covered in Solartex. Darryl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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