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Matador


Lee Damms
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Sharky rudder elevator only Steve, oh I seem to recollect have hair like that sometime ago. lol The Matador is going to be my first electric build, according to what I've seen on the net the Matador should come in around 21 onces fitted out. I asked BRC Hobbies if their emax 2822 combo (145w) would be ok on 3s lipo and they recommended a APC-E 8x4 prop.
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9g servos will be fine & yes you could obviously fit them in the rear if required.....
 
A couple of points to bear in mind....Solartex is heavy & you will have more covering behind the CofG than in front....which will push the CofG back....might Litespan be a better material
 
A leccy motor is a lot lighter than a 1.5cc diesel so you will probably need to think about fitting the Lipo pretty far forward too to get the CofG right.....check as soon as you can.....
 
Here's my electric Mini Super...this is Solartex covered & has just over 250watts up front off a 2200 3S Lipo through a 9x6 prop & flies very nicely, with enough oomph to fly into a bit of a headwind......overall weight is a few oz under 3lbs
 

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I had a similar idea in mind, and having got hold of the kit have yet to start the build. Going for an electric set up so am interested as to how yours works out. My original (40 years ago)Matador also ran on a 1.5 diesel with single channel control on the rudder. When you fit your motor make sure you work out where the thrustlines need to be. The original model (and plans?) set the model up for free flight and I followed this with my single channel set up originally. Very good for flying in tight circles one way and just about straight the other !!!. Once the thrust was altered it flew OK till it had a coming together with some hay bales about the size of a bungalow.
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just had a further thought, based on some of the earlier comments. If the front end is lighter with electric motor then putting servos at the rear end wouldn.t help. I think a standard side by side servo set up feeding the back end with either pushrods or snakes to rudder and elevator, coupled with the battery and ESC quite far forward should give the right C of G. Access from the top or through a removable balsa floor on the bottom might be the best way as it would allow some movement to position the battery in the right place. In terms of covering I think something as light as possible would help depending on powerplant selected. My original one was tissue and dope covered with no additional colour on the wings, but the fuse was colour doped. Dont know what the weight was but it it sailed away well with the 1.5 up front.

Edited By Paul Hartley on 17/11/2011 17:37:54

Edited By Paul Hartley on 17/11/2011 17:38:48

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Hi Lee, looks like a good start. I hope to start mine soon so will be joining you.
 
I'm all electric these days so just to be awkward I hope to go diesel with mine, to get as close as I can to my first RC model which must have been sometime around 1975.
The Matador nose is short but the cabin is huge, so I think my two servos will be with the receiver and battery at the front of the cabin. We'll see once it's all built.
 
Keep going and you might get me started
 
Chris
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Hi guys, thanks for all the feedback. Definately looks like litespan for the covering. The idea of servos at the rear came from the attached photo of an electrified Matador with a emax2812 motor installed and I think a 3s 2000mah batt pack. Reckon I'll have to see what the balance is like later I may do a little extra sheeting at the front.
 

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Hi Lee,
 
Nice one. Two 9 gram servo's side by side will be just fine. my Quiver which is the same size as the Matador uses a ply tray with the servo's and RX mounted on it. Closed loop for the rudder and mini snake for the elevator. I fit the 2S 1500 lipo in a formed battery box on the under side, with the esc under the motor which is a cheapo blue wonder.
 
When the Super 60's finished I'm doing the Matador, but using a 1.5 diesel.
 
Cheers,
 
Chris.
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Hi there Steve, Sharky's now been moved was getting too comfortable. Done a bit more to the Matador. The battery box takes my 3s 1300mah lipo easy with enough room to move about to adjust CG and if extra weight is need up front I can get a 2000mah in. Removable cowl to do next I think.


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Hi Erfolg thanks for the interest, yes the top of the cowl will be held on by magnets I've checked that I can get my sticky mitts in far easier than trying via the body. I've got the framework of the cowl done and as soon as its sheeted I'll upload the photo, I believe someone on here said magnets were available from Maplin.
Lee
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Lee,
That's coming along nicely
 
Regarding magnets, I have used them from the casing of a burnt out outrunner in the past. Really strong and makes you feel that little bit better that it is being re used in some way.
 
Sharky looks nice too! I remember my old man having one with a cox 049 fitted with single channel radio. Was the first model he ever let me launch! the rubber motor snapped whilst in the air and it flew off. Found later in the day in a field full of cows!
The same thing happened with a bigger model, think it was called Rohma or something like that, but that was never to be seen again.
 
Don't get falling down that loft hatch!
 
 
Rich
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The only daft questions are the ones you don't ask Lee.....
 
To answer your question...no they won't affect the motor....these magnets are very strong in the immediate vicinity but the "range" of their field (if I can put it like that) is quite small.
 
I find 6 or 8mm dia x 1 or 2mm thick are good for hatches etc. Obviously depends on the size & weight of the hatch or cowl. Make sure you get the two magnets as close to each other as possible (see above!!).....& make sure you secure them well....they really can take some pulling to get them apart......
 
Suggest you do a couple of test mock ups before risking your cowl/model!!!
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