Chris Bott - Moderator Posted February 15, 2012 Author Share Posted February 15, 2012 Myron I have some UHU Hart, that smells and acts just how I rmember old fashioend balsa cement. I beleive that Humbrol still make a balsa cement too, but I haven't tried that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bandit Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 Hi Chris, Myron, Ambroid and UHU Hart are the best balsa cements still a avialable, and the stuff that sells for Humbrol is just too expensive. the other stuff just doesn't seem to work properly. The other thing with Ambroid and Hart is they can be thinned with Acetone, and 50 / 50 mixed with balsa dust to a paste makes a brilliant balsa coloured filler. Cheers, Chris.Edited By Big Bandit on 15/02/2012 20:53:14 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myron Beaumont Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 I'll search for your suggestions ! One important point - Does it stick to your fingers so that you can sit and chew it off --OOh Memories !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted February 15, 2012 Author Share Posted February 15, 2012 Thanks Chris Just for interest I just found this on 'tinterweb:- Just don't blame me if it's rubbish.. If you have never made up any home brew Balsa Cement then give it a try,you will need some offcuts of acetate sheet or even perspex broken ito granules with a lump hammer ( now you must have one of those in you kit for knocking in your pins ) obtain some acetone from a drug stores or chemists and fill up a glass jar with the liquid,now submerge the granules or offcuts and leave overnight,in the morning you will have a really useful old fashioned type balsa cement. In wartime this trick was popular,apply with a brush and if it hardens add more acetone. I am not sure if it works with modern acrylic sheet,you will need to experiment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bandit Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 Hi Myron, Yes you can chew it of your fingers, but don't let the missus catch you doing it . Hi Chris, yes it does work, the only problem is getting hold of Acetone these days, our village chemist would let me have 1/2 litre bottles of the stuff a year back, now he can only sell 200ml at a time. Funnily enough I'm picking up a gallon can tomorrow .Thinning Ambroid or hart is very good for double glueing and you not only use less cement, and using a needle point bottle it goes just where you want it, and the joints are much stronger.Cheers,Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted February 15, 2012 Author Share Posted February 15, 2012 A gallon? Chris how much balsa cement do you thin? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bandit Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 It'll just keep me going for a while, it's from a mate who see's a man about a dog . It's also really good at disolving cured Cyano , I keep a small bottle to drop the used pippet ends in when they clog, five minutes and they come out as good a new. Taking it to an extreme you could use cyano to build the same model over and over again . Cheers, Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Etheridge 1 Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 Chris, My Matador is definitely flawed with a wing warp and tail warp and the tailplane fixed at the wrong angle of incidence. Don't forget I rescued it from a dustbin over 30 years ago. When I contacted my nephew Nigel who is now 49 and works for Airbus Industries, about his old Matador he was most amused that it no longer flies. He reminded me that I always encouraged him to build accurately in his youth and suggested I should have left the plane in the dustbin as at that time he was fed up with repairing it! Nigel became a very efficient aeromodeller at most aspects of the hobby and flew control line F2E and F2D for a number of years at the Nationals. I had no intention of putting you off your project and will be only too pleased to hear of your success. I just can't believe we have had so much hard luck with the Matador but it seems to have been self inflicted. That said I did have the Matador's small brother with a Mills .75 that flew well, I can't remember it's name?. Regards,Mike Edited By Chris Bott on 23/02/2012 22:26:17 Edited By Steve Hargreaves - Moderator on 14/03/2012 15:42:08 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim C Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 Acetone, loads of suppliers on Ebay £6 ish a litre Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 I recall that my Matty had a fully sheeted fuselage (1/16" balsa) to cope with the rigours of RC flying. This was recommended by the old sage who helped me build it. As an inexperienced 14 year old I do remember being over enthusiastic with the sanding paper & it was probably considerably less than 1/16" in places... Dope & talcum powder was the filler of choice for me back in the day....mind you I just use these ready mixed "Lite" fillers from Polycell & the like nowadays....(cringes in anticipation of another KK Handbook beating....) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve W-O Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 Posted by Chris Bott on 15/02/2012 20:44:11: Thanks Chris Just for interest I just found this on 'tinterweb:- Just don't blame me if it's rubbish.. If you have never made up any home brew Balsa Cement then give it a try,you will need some offcuts of acetate sheet or even perspex broken ito granules with a lump hammer ( now you must have one of those in you kit for knocking in your pins ) obtain some acetone from a drug stores or chemists and fill up a glass jar with the liquid,now submerge the granules or offcuts and leave overnight,in the morning you will have a really useful old fashioned type balsa cement. In wartime this trick was popular,apply with a brush and if it hardens add more acetone. I am not sure if it works with modern acrylic sheet,you will need to experiment. I seem to remember using trichlorethylene. Used to be considered safe to self administer for pain relief. There was also another heavy chlorine solvent used for degalzing/lifting rollers/blankets on offset printing machines that worked well to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 For those of you wondering what has happened to Mike Etheridges posts regarding his Matador I moved them to a new thread.....see here..... Mike has a new battery & is preparing for his first sortie...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted March 30, 2012 Author Share Posted March 30, 2012 I think I said this build would be intermittent, but I have to actually do some now and again if it's ever going to get done. I've been faffing around trying to decide if I'd actually rather have it electric. (yes I know, but there's far more flying hours available at our club if it's electric...) Anyway, after a couple of false starts here's the result, well a start. It's still going through a bit of a design process but I think I can see where it's going now. Hope you like the solution? Of course, it's staying Diesel Or is it? Still cant decide Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bandit Posted March 30, 2012 Share Posted March 30, 2012 Great stuff Chris, Would it be possible to fashion the front end so that different power modules could be used. Cheers, Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted March 30, 2012 Author Share Posted March 30, 2012 Yep that's the idea Next job is to pick a way of fastening them in that will give me the quickest or most convenient way of changing them. I think I'm probably going to build up the tail next to get some idea of what's needed for the C/G in both configs. At the moment a LiPo pushes neatly into the tank space. I just hope that remains the case. Actually, I just need to make the two power pods weigh the same don't I - doh! I'm undecided whether I can build the nose fairings onto the model and leave room to slide the pods in, or whether each pod will have it's own model nose built around it. Edited By Chris Bott - Moderator on 30/03/2012 09:47:41 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Etheridge 1 Posted March 30, 2012 Share Posted March 30, 2012 Chris, When I first added the radio and the geared motor to my Matador the Cof G was too far back. The solution was to swap the servo tray round so that the servos were in front of the Cof G location. The receiver and battery pack were also re- located in front of the Cof G position and fortunately no ballast was needed. To add a third servo for a throttle though would mean swapping the servo tray around again to get snake tube through to the throttle. As you may have noticed the Ni mH batteries are secured to the engine bearers with garden wire set through the bearers---another first? After inspecting the plane following its last flight I found I had a number of screws loose--- on the motor of course! MJE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted March 30, 2012 Author Share Posted March 30, 2012 garden wire? yes Mike that probably is a first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator Posted March 30, 2012 Share Posted March 30, 2012 I think vibration will be your biggest issue with the IC version......an overhang like that is bound to vibrate a bit IMHO. Maybe some extra support under the pod might be needed... Don't forget to factor in a small Rx battery to power the IC models radio too when working out the CoG.....& don't forget to charge it up too!!! Is that the same motor as Lee Damms is using Chris...looks like the same one....140watts or so...? About £5 from GC.... yes? Should go well with a nice slow fly 9x6 prop on it..... Is the tray behind the motor for the battery? 1500 3S Lipo or so?? Great workmanship Chris.....I can't help feeling that the diesel looks better though.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted March 30, 2012 Author Share Posted March 30, 2012 I think yes on just about all counts Steve. I actually splashed out on an Emax CF2822 from BRC so paid the heady price of about £7. A 1300mAh will be perfect I think but a 2200 will fit in if I really need the weight. For vintage performance I really can't see it needing even 100W. I am mindful of vibration but theres plenty of scope for reinforcement with extra beams or some triangles of ply. A Rx battery - yes, that's a thought. Maybe I'll use a Rx battery for both versions and disable the BEC. Will be a pain to charge it though, do the I/C types have to do this all the time?? blimey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator Posted March 30, 2012 Share Posted March 30, 2012 Posted by Chris Bott - Moderator on 30/03/2012 15:34:33: A Rx battery - yes, that's a thought. Maybe I'll use a Rx battery for both versions and disable the BEC. Will be a pain to charge it though, do the I/C types have to do this all the time?? blimey Thats an idea Chris.....wish I'd thought of using it for both....just remember to disable the BEC won't you.... Yes we IC types do have to remember to charge the Rx battery too but think of the advantages...its one more thing you can blame when the model crashes.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bandit Posted March 30, 2012 Share Posted March 30, 2012 I might have to start my Matty after all, having opened the box for the Bandit kit, there's no plan . And that's after spending last weekend cleaning out the shed ready to start building again and re varnishing the building board this morning. I've just ordered another plan on line and emailed Colin Buckle to see if I can get it for next weekend. Cheers, Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted March 30, 2012 Author Share Posted March 30, 2012 Cool, see how much Matty you cen get done before it comes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted May 6, 2012 Author Share Posted May 6, 2012 Didn't get out to fly today due to circumstances and the opportunity to do things oudoors at home. But another couple of small steps forward... Edited By Chris Bott - Moderator on 06/05/2012 16:14:44 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bandit Posted May 6, 2012 Share Posted May 6, 2012 Hi Chris, Your a lot further forward than I thought, and the wings don't look bad. Cheers, Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Etheridge 1 Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 Chris, I have to agree the nylon looks fine with no white blotches! This could last you up to 50 years provided you do not leave it in a shed like I did with my Junior 60. The nylon turned from red to pink and as I have said before rotted, I suppose due to UV exposure. The current JNR 60 nylon cover dates back to 1976. I think the nylon will give added strength neccessary for a radio version of the model,but I just wonder about the tailplane structure whether it will take the nylon without warping?. MJE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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