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Vic Smeed Coquette Build.


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Thank you chaps, decision made - 9g it is! Gawd bless the interweb! As I said, models of this size are outside my normal field and I'm not used to working with such small components.
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  • 2 weeks later...
Well after a short break from building over Christmas and New Year, plus a bit of time spent away working, the Coquette build is back on and I have started on the fuselage this evening. Once again, I have been very impressed by the standard and completeness of the Old School Model Aeroplane Factory kit - part of the fuselage structure includes a couple of triangular balsa gussets which I assumed would have to be made from scrap. Having done so, I discovered that they were included in the kit - very impressive I thought.
Anyway, here is the progress so far. I tried to rotate the image but it hasn't worked so you will just have to tilt your head on one side to see it clearly!
Jim
 

 
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Close of play here and this is the evening's work - two fuselage halves joined and the rear fuselage stringers fitted. I'll try and do some more tomorrow, babies etc permitting!

 
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Well another day and a bit more progress. I have fitted the motor - decided on a Hacker A20 8XL. Mainly because I had one left over from a previous model and it looked about right. I reckon a 2S LiPo around 1000Mah capacity should do the trick but I'll do some tests and see what happens.
The cowling has been strip planked - I could probably have made a single sheet to fit but needed something to keep me busy in front of the fire while SWMBO watches House Season 7.
I've included a picture taken from the back end of the fuselage to show the stringers - just because I liked it!
I also found a couple of Multiplex Nano-S servos that will be used for the rudder and elevator. Just trying to decide how best to link them up. I am thinking of a closed loop on the elevator, with the servo output arm protruding from the fuselage side and the closed loop wires running outside the fuselage to the elevator. The rudder linkage will need to be above the tailplane so I am scratching my head about how best to do it as neatly and effectively as possible. I'll think of something.
I'm out all day tomorrow but will try and start the wings on Monday.



 
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Made a bit of progress on the wings the other day but then had to stop as I realised I didn't have as much wood as I thought - I will need to pick some more up for the spars. Anyway, I got the tips made at least. They are laminated from four layers of 1/32" balsa. If you have never made wing tips this way I recommend it thoroughly - I've used it on a few models and, although a bit more fiddly than simply cutting them out of sheet, the result is very light and strong. I'm sure many of you are familiar with the method but for those who aren't it goes like this....
 
1. Cut out a template from thick cardboard, balsa, ply or something similar. I happened to have a lot of 1/4" balsa lying around so I used that. Make sure you cut the template to the INSIDE line of the tip as shown on the plan!

2. Next cut some strips of 1/32" balsa. For larger, less tightly radiussed curves you can use 1/16". Put them in water to soak for 15 minutes or so.

3. Now wrap your template in clingfilm or tape to stop it sticking to the glue you will be using for the laminations. Pin the template to the board and wrap the first of your laminations around it, holding in place with pins. One at a time, apply glue to each strip and wrap it around the previous one until you have four layers held in place with pins. Put the whole thing to one side and leave it to dry overnight.

4. The following day, gently remove the laminations from the template and there you have it - a neat, light wingtip ready to be trimmed.

The glue I use is Super Phatic from Deluxe Materials - which I use for most wood joints where possible. If you have never tried this stuff I heartily recommend it - it has the consistency of skimmed milk and so is excellent at wicking into joints and it sets in about twenty minutes to give a strong but slightly flexible joint.
Well that's all for now - I'm sure plenty of people are already familiar with laminating wing tips but I just thought I'd describe the process for the benefit of anyone who has never tried it.

Edited By Jim Newberry on 19/01/2012 13:03:47

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Well a bit more wing building took place this evening while SWMBO was out. The upper wing is now substantially complete, just a bit of sanding and covering left to do. Once I have a few of the major components of a model made, I just can't help myself piling them all together and seeing it start to take shape as a whole, hence the picture below.
I must say, having not built such a small model since I built free flighters back in the eighties, it is quite pleasing how quickly a model of this size comes together - and how easy it is to build on a spare corner of the dining table.
Not sure which bit to tackle next but I'll be sure to upload some pictures when I do.
Oh and if anyone has any tips on getting Profilm to adhere to the underneath of undercambered wings I'll be happy to hear your input - the last time I tried it I seem to remember it being less than entirely satisfactory.


 
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Looks great Jim, I am afraid I cannot help much with the undercambered wing and film sticking. The one thing you could try is sticking the covering to the ribs, working from root to tip, and sticking the film to each rib with the iron. When shrinking do not get the ribs hot by using a heat gun, just wave the iron over the gaps between the ribs. How practical that suggestion is I am not sure. I will be keen to see how it is done. I have read that this is how you attach Koverall to an undercambered wing.
 
Cheers
Danny

Edited By Danny Fenton on 23/01/2012 23:18:45

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Thanks Danny, I think I'll just go very carefully and try not to apply too much heat - I think last time my problem was trying too hard to get a good tight finish which inevitably pulled the covering away from the ribs. I have recently used Koverall for the first time on a Cirrus Moth and I imagine it would work well with undercambered wings as it sticks like porridge to one of my daughter's babygrows.
I might try using a bit of Balsaloc on the ribs first - although I am not sure whether that will actually increase the adhesion of the film.
I often find in these situations that making up a few test pieces from scrap balsa and trying a few different techniques until stumbling across one that works is a good way to go - and an entertaining way to while away a couple of hours in the evening. I'll let you know how I get on.
Jim
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  • 1 month later...

Well some of us here on the vintage build thread have recently been chastised for our lack of progress, so I thought I should update you with progress on the Coquette and proffer my excuses for the lack thereof...

Here is a picture of what will be the elevator servo and its associated mount. A while back I canvassed opinion regarding the size of servo to use and the consensus seemed to be to use 9g units. Well I found a pair of Multiplex Nano servos that looked about right and decided to use those. After a bit of fiddling I decided that the elevator servo should be fitted quite far forward in the fuselage, with the output arm hanging out in the breeze and a closed loop to the elevator. Obviously, the whole of the closed loop wires will be "air cooled" as they pass down the side of the fuselage which I can't quite decide will be either unsightly or actually quite appealing - in the same way that transparent covering and open structure looks good to some eyes, untidy to others. Anyway it should certainly be easy to install, being easy to access!

Other progress has included a bit of light shaping of the forward fuselage and building the lower wing - I haven't bothered uploading any pictures of the lower wing as it is almost identical to the upper wing but a little bit smaller!

I continue to scratch my head about how best to connect a servo to the rudder and keep things looking neat. Options at the moment include having a snake pass over the top of the tailplane to the rudder horn (don't like this as it will look a mess) or redesigning the rudder such that part of it protrudes below the tailplane and that will be the part with the control horn on it, joined to the upper part in much the same way that two part elevators are joined with a wire joiner. I don't like this option because, in my eyes, it departs from the original design to an extent that I am not happy with. I will keep chewing over the situation until a satisfactory compromise comes to me.

Well that's all for now. In the meantime I have finally finished the Typhoon that SWMBO got me for Christmas 2009 (!) and may risk a first flight tomorrow.

Night all.

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Well a little more progress has been made today. After shaping the fuselage and fitting servo mounts for both the elevator and rudder, I spent this afternoon doing some covering with blue and white Profilm. Although a bit heavier than some films, I do find that Profilm is very easy to use and not too sensitive to heat. I must admit that covering is one of my least favourite jobs, although once I get started it's not too bad. I've gone for a simple colour scheme with this one which I think is appropriate. Anyway, here is the covered fuselage, just the windscreen, undercarriage and tail skid left to fit.

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  • 9 months later...

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