scott cuppello Posted May 29, 2008 Share Posted May 29, 2008 Me neither to be truthful, but I wouldn't worry if you are fitting a Turnigy UBEC, they are superb. The problem with linear BEC's for anything over 3s/4 servo applications has already been explained, switchable are the way to go really if you are doubt, or a top quality UBEC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Helidel Posted May 29, 2008 Share Posted May 29, 2008 Timbo,On your post 02/04/08 (14.23) about a loud lo-volt alarm for the DX7 you suggested there'd be a followup, can't seem to find it can you point me in the right direction please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted May 29, 2008 Author Share Posted May 29, 2008 Is this what you are after.?if you want the detail - then message me with your email address so I can email the zip file to you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Helidel Posted May 30, 2008 Share Posted May 30, 2008 TimboThanks for the info on the DX7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted May 30, 2008 Author Share Posted May 30, 2008 Glad you got it OK....and you have heeded my advice re the charging I take it ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2Bigus Posted May 31, 2008 Share Posted May 31, 2008 Just discovered your Forum some excelent information..Perhaps you could confirm my suspicions on my latest wipe out. I had constructed a blue foam Spit', plans off an internet site I exspect you have seen, it wieghed about 1.5 lb.I used a small bell motor brushless with a 15A controller with a 2amp BEC, Esky reciever and 3, 8g servos.Now I have not flown for some time, but the flight was exceptionaly eratic untill the crash! It seemed like a radio problem but looked as though it was OK on static tests. I made up a 12v pack of 1500mah NIMH AA cells for the power supply, it was this weight I think was responsible for the wreck.Was the Bec not upto it? reading your posts it seems it may not have been. I am reluctant to try again before I get to the root of the problem. Thanks DB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted May 31, 2008 Author Share Posted May 31, 2008 Hi there and welcome aboard - most small brushless ESCs are only really happy on 2 - 3 s LiPo as a maximum for BEC purposes, and as 3s LiPo is nominal 11.1V this could well be your problem. How many cells did your pack consist of? 12V could mean nominal ( 10 cells ) or peak ( 8 cells ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2Bigus Posted May 31, 2008 Share Posted May 31, 2008 Thanks for your reply. It was a 10 cell pack of 1500 mah AA cells.thanks DB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted May 31, 2008 Author Share Posted May 31, 2008 Ah well then in that case I reckon thats the likely problem. 10 nixx cells fresh off the charger will be around 15Volts! and the small 15A ESC BEC will not like that at all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Melville Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 I liked the look of the Seagull AT-Texan reviewed in RCM&E June issue and as the guy at the shop said that my waiting for use EnErG A3615-4 1600RPM/V and JETI Advance 40 plus would be a good match the cash just flew out of my wallet. Having learnt that I was misinformed I have now bought the recommended JP C42-20 900KV and intend getting the recommended 4s battery.I have read that above 3s an OPTO type ESC should be used and accordingly was hoping to employ a yet unused JETI Advance 70 opto plus together with SBEC-5V. I have also read that when using SBEC (or separate receiver battery) the red wire on the controller receiver/throttle plug needs to be disconnected. Is this still the case when using an OPTO version of the controller which I thought is designed for such applications. The JETI OPTO I have has three wires fitted to the receiver plug red, brown and orange.Do I disconnect the red wire from the controller/receiver plug or just plug it in as it is ?I would very much appreciate some helpThank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Gwillim Posted June 8, 2008 Share Posted June 8, 2008 Hi Guy's, been reading through the thread, lots of useful info!!I had a bit of an accident with my PA Addiction last week. Had been in the air for all of 15 seconds, just flying slow circuits at about 1/4 throttle, I banked into a turn, and suddenly lost all power! The motor cut, and no power to any servo's, and all i could do was watch as it hit the floor - left wing first - and proceeded to dismantle itself in a less than graceful cartwheel! I think it could be down to the BEC of my JETI Advance 30A ESC, but wondered if anyone would agree? Or am I completely on the wrong track? I've been flying for around 2 years, and have a basic understanding of electrics, but I'm no expert!!The plane is a PA Addiction, with a Dualsky XM3536CA-8 motor, Kong Power 3S 1800mAh 11.1V pack, and APC 11 x 5.5 prop. I have been using this set up for around 4 or 5 months without incident. I have pretty much ruled out a loose connection, and don't think it was radio interference, there was no flutter or glitching at all prior to everything going dead, but full control was resumed as soon as it hit the ground!! ( about a second too late really!!!! ). Any help or suggestions would be gratefully received - I would like to re use all the innards, but I'm obviously a bit reluctant until I can identify the fault! Thanks in advance guy's James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted June 8, 2008 Author Share Posted June 8, 2008 John Melville wrote (see)I liked the look of the Seagull AT-Texan reviewed in RCM&E June issue and as the guy at the shop said that my waiting for use EnErG A3615-4 1600RPM/V and JETI Advance 40 plus would be a good match the cash just flew out of my wallet. Having learnt that I was misinformed I have now bought the recommended JP C42-20 900KV and intend getting the recommended 4s battery.I have read that above 3s an OPTO type ESC should be used and accordingly was hoping to employ a yet unused JETI Advance 70 opto plus together with SBEC-5V. I have also read that when using SBEC (or separate receiver battery) the red wire on the controller receiver/throttle plug needs to be disconnected. Is this still the case when using an OPTO version of the controller which I thought is designed for such applications. The JETI OPTO I have has three wires fitted to the receiver plug red, brown and orange.Do I disconnect the red wire from the controller/receiver plug or just plug it in as it is ?I would very much appreciate some helpThank youNo need to remove the red wire on an Opto - it will NOT be supplying a live feed to the receiver.Simply plug your UBEC into the battery socket of your receiver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted June 8, 2008 Author Share Posted June 8, 2008 James Gwillim wrote (see)Hi Guy's, been reading through the thread, lots of useful info!!I had a bit of an accident with my PA Addiction last week. Had been in the air for all of 15 seconds, just flying slow circuits at about 1/4 throttle, I banked into a turn, and suddenly lost all power! The motor cut, and no power to any servo's, and all i could do was watch as it hit the floor - left wing first - and proceeded to dismantle itself in a less than graceful cartwheel! I think it could be down to the BEC of my JETI Advance 30A ESC, but wondered if anyone would agree? Or am I completely on the wrong track? I've been flying for around 2 years, and have a basic understanding of electrics, but I'm no expert!!The plane is a PA Addiction, with a Dualsky XM3536CA-8 motor, Kong Power 3S 1800mAh 11.1V pack, and APC 11 x 5.5 prop. I have been using this set up for around 4 or 5 months without incident. I have pretty much ruled out a loose connection, and don't think it was radio interference, there was no flutter or glitching at all prior to everything going dead, but full control was resumed as soon as it hit the ground!! ( about a second too late really!!!! ). Any help or suggestions would be gratefully received - I would like to re use all the innards, but I'm obviously a bit reluctant until I can identify the fault! Thanks in advance guy's JamesDoent sound like BEC problem to me because you stated that the motor cut too - the BEC has no effect on the motor, other than if your radio is set to fail safe the throttle CLOSED COMPLETELY on brown outs.Jeti 30 should be good for at least 40 A probably before smoking, is the BEC still supplying power now ? Are you SURE the battery was charged before flight ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2Bigus Posted June 8, 2008 Share Posted June 8, 2008 I have been thinking a bit about your reply to my BEC inquiry, As I recolect the pack was not fresh off charge, I think I had checked it with a multimeter at 12.X volts. I allso wonder as I had made a couple of abortive attemps to rise off ground, the last being succesfull, the battery volts would have been arround upper 11 low 12 volts are they realy that sensitive to voltage?What actualy happens do they deliver a wildly fluctuating voltage, or create RF interference causing severe gltching, as appeared to be going on? with the model girating and my making severe corrections to try and control itThanks DB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Gwillim Posted June 8, 2008 Share Posted June 8, 2008 Thanks for the reply, yes the battery was fresh off the balance charger, about 10 minutes before flight, and control of the surfaces resumed after impact. In hind sight, about a week before, I connected the battery, swithed on the ESC, and nothing happened. When I disconnected the battery, and re-connected it, it worked fine. I'm using 3.5mm gold bullet type connectors, so I'm fairly confident there's no loose connection between battery and ESC. Could it be a fault with the ESC itself ( not the BEC specificaly )? Thanks again James. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Melville Posted June 16, 2008 Share Posted June 16, 2008 Thanks Timbo for your advice on the OPTO (above) I assume that with 4 cells and 5 servos I have no choice but to employ the OPTO with seperate receiver battery or UBEC ?Also, what is the differerence between UBEC and S-BEC ? Regards John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted June 16, 2008 Author Share Posted June 16, 2008 Hi John.... some inbult BECS will be fine with 4 cells and 5 servos - I have a cheap 12 quid job here which is good to 6s and 6 servos ! Depends on the BEC design to a large extent...although I still recommend a seperate unit for large / heavy / multiservo models. S-BEC is I think, just a sort of "trade name" bit like "sellotape" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Rigg Posted June 16, 2008 Share Posted June 16, 2008 Couldn't S-BEC stand for 'Switching BEC' which is what a UBEC is? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Melville Posted June 16, 2008 Share Posted June 16, 2008 Thanks Timbo & NickPeace of mind at last - I think I'm getting there (slowly) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Lawrence Posted August 5, 2008 Share Posted August 5, 2008 Oh dear, this electric malarky is getting to me......I am on my first electric effort with a Seagull Space Walker (the 50" version), and have bought all my electric kit from BRC and Giantcod. I have flown ic for many years, and decided to go Electric and 2.4(Futaba), so I have made a significant investment in the switch (no pun intended!).What I need to know is this....the ESC (Hobbywing 40amp) wires are all the same colour going to the motor, and are marked A, B and C. On one of the motors I have bought from Giantcod, the three wires are all the same colour(blue). On my BRC motor (A2814-8T.....1000Kv.....300w) the wires are red, yellow and black.......This is probably stupidly simple and obvious stuff, but will someone please tell me what I attach to where.Also, I am horrified to see that I have got to solder 12 leads on....they don't tell you that in the "Electric is easy" articles......the paperwork with the motors, Esc and batteries is pathetic....it seems to tell you all the things you already know, but none of the basic stuff!And, finally, does anyone have advice on the optimum prop size. I know what to attach to the front of my 40's, 60's and big 4 strokes, but I haven't a clue what is right on this set-up. (Battery, by the way, is Himodel 11.1v/2200mAh)Help....I feel I am out of my depth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myron Beaumont Posted August 5, 2008 Share Posted August 5, 2008 David Iknow the feeling BUT after about 6 months & putting my maths hat on I'm eventually getting there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Lawrence Posted August 5, 2008 Share Posted August 5, 2008 O-level maths was a very long time ago!I just feel that, having read and re-read all the "Electric is simple" articles in the mags, that I am actually being let down by the suppliers......the engine from Giantcod came with no instructions re mounting, and use and a whole pack full of tiny bits which mean nothing to me, the extension mount for the motor on the kit has no blind nuts fitted etc etc.Depressing....and expensive! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erfolg Posted August 5, 2008 Share Posted August 5, 2008 I must and will spring to the defence of Giant Cod.I personally have bought a number of items from them and have been very satisfied. Including speed controllers and motors. There is a section where the technical and support data for many items can be found ie operating instructions etc.Erfolg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Lawrence Posted August 6, 2008 Share Posted August 6, 2008 Sorry, I was not knocking anyone, least of all Giant Cod, who are clearly doing a brilliant job at bringing in amazing deals for us puntersMy concern is that they (and BRC etc) are doing a great job looking after the initiated, and us simple souls are unable to get to square 1.........show me anywhere in the mags an article that explains how ESC's/Motors/batteries have to be joined together please. Why for heavens sake are there endless types of connection?Also please explain what four rubber rings, for instance, are for in the Motor goodie bag. The paperwork does not even refer to them!...nor to the little collet bits, or whatever they are. And what the hell is a "banana" link? How are we newcomers supposed to know what this mysterious language is all about?I am beginning to suspect that the whole electric flight thing is for the insiders, and we ic folk are definitely being bamboozled by the language and numbering. I am an unhappy (and much poorer) flier.Help!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted August 6, 2008 Author Share Posted August 6, 2008 I am afraid I have to agree with you David - even though I am a leccy flier myself One of the problems ( and its not a good excuse really ) is that things change so very fast - as soon as one tries to explain the workings of the latest piece of equipment - up pops the next big thing! I think we leccy brigade do somewhat take it as read that people who are going to fly electric are either......1) Already reasonably aware of such simple things as connecting motors to batteries and esc etc OR2) Are going to just buy something thats pretty much RTF. In our defence, can I say that we try hard to answer peoples questions here on the forum, so please ask away with specific queries that you may have, and I am sure someone will be along to help. Point taken though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.