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BECS and regulator info ( beginners )


Tim Mackey
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Just discovered your Forum some excelent information..

Perhaps you could confirm my suspicions on my latest wipe out. I had constructed a blue foam Spit', plans off an internet site I exspect you have seen, it wieghed about 1.5 lb.

I used a small bell motor brushless with a 15A controller with a 2amp BEC, Esky reciever and 3, 8g servos.

Now I have not flown for some time, but the flight was exceptionaly eratic untill the crash! It seemed  like a radio problem but looked as though it was OK on static tests.

I made up a 12v pack of 1500mah NIMH AA cells for the power supply, it was this weight I think was responsible for the wreck.

Was the Bec not upto it? reading your posts it seems it may not have been. I am reluctant to try again before I get to the root of the problem. 

Thanks DB 

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Hi there and welcome aboard - most small brushless ESCs are only really happy on 2 - 3 s LiPo as a maximum for BEC purposes, and as 3s LiPo is nominal 11.1V this could well be your problem.

How many cells did your pack consist of? 12V could mean nominal ( 10 cells ) or peak ( 8 cells )

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I liked the look of the Seagull AT-Texan reviewed in RCM&E June issue and as the guy at the shop said that my waiting for use EnErG A3615-4 1600RPM/V and JETI Advance 40 plus would be a good match the cash just flew out of my wallet. Having learnt that I was misinformed I have now bought the recommended JP C42-20 900KV and intend getting the recommended 4s battery.

I have read that above 3s an OPTO type ESC should be used and accordingly was hoping to employ a yet unused JETI Advance 70 opto plus together with SBEC-5V.

I have also read that when using SBEC (or separate receiver battery) the red wire on the controller receiver/throttle plug needs to be disconnected. Is this still the case when using an OPTO version of the controller which I thought is designed for such applications. The JETI OPTO I have has three wires fitted to the receiver plug red, brown and orange.Do I disconnect the red wire from the controller/receiver plug or just plug it in as it is ?I would very much appreciate some helpThank you
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Hi Guy's, been reading through the thread, lots of useful info!!

I had a bit of an accident with my PA Addiction last week. Had been in the air for all of 15 seconds, just flying slow circuits at about 1/4 throttle, I banked into a turn, and suddenly lost all power! The motor cut, and no power to any servo's, and all i could do was watch as it hit the floor - left wing first - and proceeded to dismantle itself in a less than graceful cartwheel! I think  it could be down to the BEC of my JETI Advance 30A ESC, but wondered if anyone would agree? Or am I completely on the wrong track? I've been flying for around 2 years, and have a basic understanding of electrics, but I'm no expert!!

The plane is a PA Addiction, with a Dualsky XM3536CA-8 motor, Kong Power 3S 1800mAh 11.1V pack, and APC 11 x 5.5 prop. I have been using this set  up for around 4 or 5 months without incident. I have pretty much ruled out a loose connection, and don't think it was radio interference, there was no flutter or glitching at all prior to everything going dead, but full control was resumed as soon as it hit the ground!! ( about a second too late really!!!! ).

Any help or suggestions would be gratefully received - I would like to re use all the innards, but I'm obviously a bit reluctant until I can identify the fault!

Thanks in advance guy's

 James

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John Melville wrote (see)

I liked the look of the Seagull AT-Texan reviewed in RCM&E June issue and as the guy at the shop said that my waiting for use EnErG A3615-4 1600RPM/V and JETI Advance 40 plus would be a good match the cash just flew out of my wallet. Having learnt that I was misinformed I have now bought the recommended JP C42-20 900KV and intend getting the recommended 4s battery.

I have read that above 3s an OPTO type ESC should be used and accordingly was hoping to employ a yet unused JETI Advance 70 opto plus together with SBEC-5V.

I have also read that when using SBEC (or separate receiver battery) the red wire on the controller receiver/throttle plug needs to be disconnected. Is this still the case when using an OPTO version of the controller which I thought is designed for such applications. The JETI OPTO I have has three wires fitted to the receiver plug red, brown and orange.Do I disconnect the red wire from the controller/receiver plug or just plug it in as it is ?I would very much appreciate some helpThank you

No need to remove the red wire on an Opto  - it will NOT be supplying a live feed to the receiver.

Simply plug your UBEC into the battery socket of your receiver.

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James Gwillim wrote (see)

Hi Guy's, been reading through the thread, lots of useful info!!

I had a bit of an accident with my PA Addiction last week. Had been in the air for all of 15 seconds, just flying slow circuits at about 1/4 throttle, I banked into a turn, and suddenly lost all power! The motor cut, and no power to any servo's, and all i could do was watch as it hit the floor - left wing first - and proceeded to dismantle itself in a less than graceful cartwheel! I think  it could be down to the BEC of my JETI Advance 30A ESC, but wondered if anyone would agree? Or am I completely on the wrong track? I've been flying for around 2 years, and have a basic understanding of electrics, but I'm no expert!!

The plane is a PA Addiction, with a Dualsky XM3536CA-8 motor, Kong Power 3S 1800mAh 11.1V pack, and APC 11 x 5.5 prop. I have been using this set  up for around 4 or 5 months without incident. I have pretty much ruled out a loose connection, and don't think it was radio interference, there was no flutter or glitching at all prior to everything going dead, but full control was resumed as soon as it hit the ground!! ( about a second too late really!!!! ).

Any help or suggestions would be gratefully received - I would like to re use all the innards, but I'm obviously a bit reluctant until I can identify the fault!

Thanks in advance guy's

 James

Doent sound like BEC problem to me because you stated that the motor cut too - the BEC has no effect on the motor, other than if your radio is set to fail safe the throttle CLOSED COMPLETELY on brown outs.

Jeti 30 should be good for at least 40 A probably before smoking, is the BEC still supplying power now ?

Are you SURE the battery was charged before flight ?  

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I have been thinking a bit about your reply to my BEC inquiry, As I recolect the pack was not fresh off charge, I think I had checked it with a multimeter at 12.X volts. I allso wonder as I had made a couple of abortive attemps to rise off ground, the last being succesfull, the battery volts would have been arround upper 11 low 12 volts are they realy that sensitive to voltage?

What actualy happens do they deliver a wildly fluctuating voltage, or create RF interference causing severe gltching, as appeared to be going on? with the model girating and my making severe corrections to try and control it

Thanks DB 

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Thanks for the reply, yes the battery was fresh off the balance charger, about 10 minutes before flight, and control of the surfaces resumed after impact. In hind sight, about a week before, I connected the battery, swithed on the ESC, and nothing happened. When I disconnected the battery, and re-connected it, it worked fine. I'm using 3.5mm gold bullet type connectors, so I'm fairly confident there's no loose connection between battery and ESC. Could it be a fault with the ESC itself ( not the BEC specificaly )? Thanks again James.
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Hi John.... some inbult BECS will be fine with 4 cells and 5 servos - I have a cheap 12 quid job here which is good to 6s and 6 servos ! Depends on the BEC design to a large extent...although I still recommend a seperate unit for large / heavy / multiservo models.

S-BEC is I think, just a sort of "trade name" bit like "sellotape"

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  • 1 month later...

Oh dear, this electric malarky is getting to me......

I am on my first electric effort with a Seagull Space Walker (the 50" version), and have bought all my electric kit from BRC and Giantcod. I have flown ic for many years, and decided to go Electric and 2.4(Futaba), so I have made a significant investment in the switch (no pun intended!).

What I need to know is this....the ESC (Hobbywing 40amp) wires are all the same colour going to the motor, and are marked A, B and C.  On one of the motors I have bought from Giantcod, the three wires are all the same colour(blue). On my BRC motor (A2814-8T.....1000Kv.....300w) the wires are red, yellow and black.......This is probably stupidly simple and obvious stuff, but will someone please tell me what I attach to where.

Also, I am horrified to see that I have got to solder 12 leads on....they don't tell you that in the "Electric is easy" articles......the paperwork with the motors, Esc and batteries is pathetic....it seems to tell you all the things you already know, but none of the basic stuff!

And, finally, does anyone have advice on the optimum prop size. I know what to attach to the front of my 40's, 60's and big 4 strokes, but I haven't a clue what is right on this set-up. (Battery, by the way, is Himodel 11.1v/2200mAh)
Help....I feel I am out of my depth.

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O-level maths was a very long time ago!
I just feel that, having read and re-read all the "Electric is simple" articles in the mags, that I am actually being let down by the suppliers......the engine from Giantcod came with no instructions re mounting, and use and a whole pack full of tiny bits which mean nothing to me, the extension mount for the motor on the kit has no blind nuts fitted etc etc.

Depressing....and expensive!

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I must and will spring to the defence of Giant Cod.

I personally have bought a number of items from them and have been very satisfied. Including speed controllers and motors. There is a section where the technical and support data for many items can be found ie operating instructions etc.

Erfolg 

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Sorry, I was not knocking anyone, least of all Giant Cod, who are clearly doing a brilliant job at bringing in amazing deals for us punters

My concern is that they (and BRC etc) are doing  a great job looking after the initiated, and us simple souls are unable to get to square 1.........show me anywhere in the mags an article that explains how ESC's/Motors/batteries have to  be joined together please.

Why for heavens sake are there endless types of connection?

Also please explain what four rubber rings, for instance, are for in the Motor goodie bag. The paperwork does not even refer to them!...nor to the little collet bits, or whatever they are. And what the hell is a "banana" link?

How are we newcomers supposed to know what this mysterious language is all about?

I am beginning to suspect that the whole electric flight thing is for the insiders, and we ic folk are definitely being bamboozled by the language and numbering. I am an unhappy (and much poorer) flier.

Help!!!!

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I am afraid I have to agree with you David - even though I am a leccy flier myself

One of the problems ( and its not a good excuse really ) is that things change so very fast - as soon as one tries to explain the workings of the latest piece of equipment - up pops the next big thing! I think we leccy brigade do somewhat take it as read that people who are going to fly electric are either......

1) Already reasonably aware of such simple things as connecting motors to batteries and esc etc  OR

2) Are going to just buy something thats pretty much RTF. 

In our defence, can I say that we try hard to answer peoples questions here on the forum, so please ask away with specific queries that you may have, and I am sure someone will be along to help. Point taken though

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