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Sharkface EP


Major
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Steve,
I don't know yet to be honest. It could look great after meeting with tea bag or painted, but I like it as it is now. And of course I will paint/stick sharks mouth. Just think if I should do it as per plan, or maybe paint something gore
 
Rubber bands are taken from some vegetables, I think?? OF course before maiden I wil buy proper modelling bands. Wouldn't like to see it as well.
 
Eck & Tim,
Thanks. I really tried to do my best, however I can see mistakes in it, like too small elevator etc. Well, we still got some time before Greenracers, will build another one if needed
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The tea bag thing is a bit of a joke Tom.....don't try it for real... 'Tis just my sense of humour I'm afraid.....
 
Re:- the vegetarian rubber bands...I didn't think you would try & fly it with those but I know you are pretty new to the hobby so thought it best to mention.....
 
Mistakes...?? Mistakes??? I can see no mistakes in your model Tom.....I can see a couple of positive learning opportunities but no mistakes. You gave it a go...did your best & made a fine job.......on the next one you can put what you learned into practice.....that's what we all do....it's called being human....
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Thanks gents. Well, I don't care how it is called, as far as it doesn't affect the flight. Will try to maiden it shortly with borrowed Futaba, and if elevator will be too small - I've checked already how to make another one, better. So this will be fine. That's why I like to do something by myself - I know what to do and how to avoid any damage etc. But maiden flight first
 
Tea bag isn't stupid idea. I remember, when I was a kid I used to rub them on any piece of paper called "map" etc. Wroked well, but coffe is much better.
 
Cheers
Tom
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So a little under 10oz AUW.....should be a little rocket Tom.....
 
Well I took out the Sharkface plan for a little look last night whilst I was waiting for some fuselage sheeting to dry & before I knew what was happening I'd accidentally made a template & cut out all the wing ribs.... Then, when I wasn't looking, a ruler & a scalpel fell against some 3/16" sheet & I found I had a couple of spars..... Shortly after that some TE section fell out of the wood store...
 
So it looks like I'm building this one.....
 
In an effort to keep this traditional (NOT!!) I'm going to fit a leccy motor (the one "tested" earlier) cover it with So-Lite & fit ailerons!!!!
 
So just some general thoughts I've had.....
 
I plan to build the wing absolutely flat with no dihedral & single piece spar TE & LE.
 
My TE is 1/4" wider than the recommened as I plan to cut strip ailerons out of the TE section
 
I noticed that the fin is cut from 3/16" sheet which seems a bit chunky to me for such a small model. I guess its probably to do with the use of escapements for switching the rudder...I guess these would put more strain on the fixings when they operate than a standard servo. I intend to cut this from 3/32" sheet instead, like the tailplane.
 
Is all that downthrust really necessary? I know its a "feature" of Sharkface but do we really need it all??
 
Comments anyone??
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I hope it's gonna fly after all. And total weight will be lower additional 8gm - will try to put 5gm servos instead of 9gm. These little ones with 0.7 kg torque should do fine in it.
 
It's very nice to hear, that You made (or not) this only good choice! Just don't forget to post some photos Steve.
 
So-Lite and ailerons.... Don't make me to build one more Sharkie. I can't wait to see that one.

However Your point is quite intresting. I wanted to do the same thing - straight wings etc, but unfortunately just then spotted wing's dihedral... As it was my first build, this point was a bit problematic to me.


I cut the fin from 3.32" and even now wouldn't say it is too hard or something like that. After I doped and covered the fin, of course it gained some strenght, but it's still quite easy to bend.
 
And I don't think downthrust is really needed since we make Sharkie equipped with rudder. In my plane it might be hlepful,as rudder is so small, but otherwise - no. And now I wonder, how is it gonna fly. You apply some throttle - plane climbs. Hmmm. I've got the solution. Just place former F1 parallel to F2 and then You are able to set Your own side/down thrust. You could use mixers on Your radio either, but it might need some experimentation.
 
 
Of course I might be wrong - in that case, correct me please.
Cheers
Tom

Edited By Major on 13/02/2012 12:35:08

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Tom, I'd stick with yer 9g servos...5g ones are really for indoor shockies & the like...saving 8g isn't worth the loss in power/strength....
 
Good job you stuck with the dihedral.....otherwise it wouldn't turn!!!! Rudder equipped models need dihedral to make 'em turn properly... Conversely a wing with dihedral doesn't turn as well as a flat wing when ailerons are employed.....BEB could probably explain it for us.....
 
Be interesting to see how your flies Tom.....I know the downthrust was because of the lack of an elevator to try & keep the climb under control (rudder only in the early days)....maybe a throttle/down elevator mix might be interesting...
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You've caught me, Steve. I had in mind elevator of course - just thinking of another model and mods for it right now, that's why I messed previous post. Again apologize for my English(whipping on the back)
 
I've gone a bit artful and sent my lady to work, to earn some cash to "waste on my hobby" - if she earns enough, Sharkie flies by the end of this week, as I'm gonna buy Fuby's radio gear.
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Posted by Major on 13/02/2012 12:44:07:

 
I've gone a bit artful and sent my lady to work, to earn some cash to "waste on my hobby" - if she earns enough, Sharkie flies by the end of this week, as I'm gonna buy Fuby's radio gear.
 
Tom,
 
I do like your style, better hope your lady doesn't read your forum posts .
 
Go for it Steve, you know you want to, and I'd be interested in the aileron version. I'm sure your right about the downtrust issue, may be with elevator it wouldn't need so much built in down thrust, and if the motors on a star mount it would be relatively easy to adjust for optimum power on trim.
 
I do remember back in the dark days of the 70's doing a bike meeting at Fulbeck and sitting in the padock watching somone on the outside of the circuit with this small thing flying so fast, just left to right then the other way with a sreaming two stroke on the front. Thinking about it, it may have been a Sharky.
 
Cheers,
 
Chris.

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Of course she does read this forum. She says, that atmosphere here is very nice (which is right!) and despite she does not like planes or models - just likes to read. Of course I had a hearing, but sometimes even luck needs some help. My help is called 'Karina'.

I wonder what could be Skarky's behaviour like if I'd print plan twice or even three times bigger. To have a wingspan about 1,5m. And then add ailerons, proper elevator/rudder and of course powerfull nitro engine... And how to strenghten construction avoiding flying brick at the same time...
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Noooooooo, you poor young innocents. You know not what you are doing.
A Sharky has to be flown single channel and preferably overpowered- otherwise.....
It will not be a Sharky.
In answer to an earlier question. If you have that incidence between the wing and tailplane as shown then you will need the down thrust...and if you overpower it sensibly (!) you may just need a bit more.
Oh, and whilst I'm here, wing now built and fuz parts cut out. Now look what you've made me do!
 
Gordon
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It's just me Chris, but I'm glad anyway.
 
I don't know if have started anything, but to be honest - I like modelling, cause the tool mostly used is just imagination and maybe some cutters - doesn't matter if You paint Warhammer armies or making 1.5m span Sharky. I wonder if could be possible to gain flight characteristics simillar to Wot 4 for example.

Gordon
Good to hear we're gonna have another fish. Greenracers might gain fantastic taste . However, does Your post mean, that radio I dream of from few days (Futaba 6EX 35mHz) is not gonna be good enough to suit Sharky?? If so, I'll break all knobs, excluding throttle and rudder, take off buttons and screen and damage channel's ports on the receiver - just will not touch CH3&4... I am ready to make this sacrifice to stay by tradition's side.

Cheers
Tom
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Tom your 6EX will be fine ...all you have to do is make a bang-bang buddy box...oh look I have one in front of me, which I normally use with my 7C on 35MHz.
Do you prefer sequential or compound?
 
Gordon
(trying to remember how to upload images to a post)
 
EDIT- Hopefully sussed the images


 
 

Edited By GeeW on 13/02/2012 21:19:15

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Sequential, please
 
If You want to upload pics to Your post, first You have to upload them to Your albums or know url. Click on second icon to the right on post editor, then paste url/choose photo from Your album, and click "insert".
 
Edit:
 
Nice one!!

Edited By Major on 13/02/2012 21:20:28

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Major, Thanks.
Hmmmm it messes up the images in width!
 
The white one can be used as either a buddy box or as a stand alone 2.4 Tx , the GEM can only be used as a Tx  and they use FrSky Tx modules.

Edited By GeeW on 13/02/2012 21:36:01

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As there are a couple of build logs for the Sharky running, another one wont make much odds. I'll post up progress shot and detail shots when I get to the interesting bits if the OP doesn't mind.
I am a regular S/C flyer and have several S/C models airworthy. I must admit to usually flying compound....sorry ......a weakness of mine .
Now back to the scheduled programme and apologies for the interruption to service!
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Hello again.
 
Today I received a parcel from GC.
 
Towerpro SG90
6x4E TGS Sport Propeller
CF2812 1650KV Brushless Outrunner Motor
 
Do I need to use mount for it, or can just use holes on the back plate to fix motor to the plane?
What prop adapter should I use? I checked GC's website. but didn't find adapter for this particular motor. I've got one from my old Piper, so just could take that one with axle. Prop will fit, as I've got some hubs with it.

I've seen that people use different ESCs. Will 18A be ok?
 
Sorry for these questions, but it's a first time I install setup on my own.

Cheers
Tom
 
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Looks a good set of avionics there Tom.....
 
Yes the 18A ESC will be fine....
 
Yes you can use the rear mount....if you look closely you will see there are two grub screws clamping the motor to the mounting disc....if you unscrew these you will be able to mark & fix the disc to the front of the model. Be careful..the grub screws are made from a cheddar/edam alloy & you will round the internal hex very easily...use a good fitting hex key...
 
GC should do a suitable prop driver...I think the motor shaft is 3mm so a 3mm collet or grubscrew mounted adaptor should be fine...I would guess the prop will take a 5mm shaft....
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