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Quaker Flash build


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Well I having covered it, the C of G was spot on as is! This meant that the battery was going to have to be located right over or close to the C of G. As access is very limited, I came up with an ingenious idea - if I do say so myself. I made up a battery carrier plate that enables the battery (3s 3300mah) to be firmly secured. This has an end plate at 90° to the main carrier plate with two slots in. The battery carrier is slid into place and the end plate then locates over two screws in the bulkhead. A picture will describe this better than words so I'll put one up tonight. I hope to do the maiden on Sunday.

If all is well, I'm calling this finished.

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  • 2 months later...

Hi there! I too have just started to build one of these wonderful models. I'm a little rusty, and need a little advise. The plan only shows one side of the fuselage. How do I build the other side? I've pinned and glued one side over the plan and some of the parts fit flat on the board. Clearly the two sides are not identical.

thanks

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Robert,

The main framing of the two sides should be identical. Build one main frame over the plan and build the second over the first so they turn out the same. Make sure you use some cling film or similar to stop them from sticking to the plan or each other. Where some sheeting is added that isn't full thickness, these need to be a mirror image if you see what I mean. The way these things can trap the unwary is where you end up building two right or left sides. Once done, look at the plan (top) view and cut the centre section cross members from 1/4" square. From the front of the wing seat to the rear, the sides need to be parallel so you need to cut these very carefully. I cut them slightly oversize and then sanded them all to length together - I have a bench sander with a mitre gauge but take your time and it will be fine. These need to be glued where shown but this is the crirical bit - make sure that each and every one is absolutely vertical, that is with one fuselage side flat on the board pinned over the plan, the cross members will be vertical. Make sure you check them in both directions - top & bottom, and fore & aft.

Once these are thoroughly dry, align the other side over the first and glue to the cross members making sure that it is square all the way along both top and bottom edges or you will end up with a twisted fuselage.

I don't know what level of experience you have, I hope I'm not teaching you to suck eggs. If you need any more information or advice, either PM me or ask here.

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Hi Andy, Thanks for the assistance! you have clarified a number of issues I had. I have build a few models over the years but I think in the main they all had a blow by blow instruction guide, where as this time all I have is a box of balsa and 2 plans! I will follow your guidance to the letter!! Might I ask one other question while I'm here? As mentioned before I have so far laid out one side and have glued the vertical struts and the diagonals to the rear. Just putting together the front end around the front formers. The 1/4 square piece of balsa that runs along the bottom of the fuse doesn't seem long enough to reach the full length. Can you confirm that it runs from the tail end up to F2? with a new short length running under the engine bay? The plan isn't clear at what postition the join is? Not sure if my explaanantion is clear but hopefully you will get the gist?

Also is there a trick to bending up that length of balsa at the front end or is it just pinned and glued under tension? Sorry if these questions are rudimentry! Just don't want to make any mistakes!

thanks in advance!

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Hi Andy,

Just come across this build thread and have really enjoyed it. The photography is just brilliant and so helpful when following progress.

This model is a great 'oldie' and of proven design. You should have many hours of pleasurable flying with this model - just great for those lovely calm evenings.

Looking forward to the flying report - and some more great photo's.smiley

John.

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Thanks guys for the interest.

Robert,

The bottom longeron has to have a join in but I had mine midway between the wing trailing edge and the tailplane seat. I cut in a scarf joint (angled joint) that fell across one of the uprights. The other side was a bit further back, at the next upright down so the two were staggered. The front curve can be coaxed in by having everything really secure and going slowly with lots of pins to hold the shape. I used aliphatic to give me plenty of time to get it right. If it really won't go, make a series of saw cuts about half to three quarters through and make the curve. When it's dried, rub glue into the slots to add a bit of strength.

Andrew,

I'll get some photo's at the weekend and post them so you can see what I did.

I think the maiden will be a while. I'm a member of two clubs, one has travellers on and the access track to the other is waterlogged so no flying for a bit.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Well thanks for all the comments and for the sake of completeness I thought I would share the completed photo's taken today following which I ran the motor and did some measurements. I also took the photo's of the battery mount for Andrew 767.

Photo's first...

Quaker Flash build

Quaker Flash build

Quaker Flash build

And there you have it, it's sized to take a 3300 3s Lipo which is attached first and then the carrier fits over the two screws in the fuselage which can be given a half turn to secure if required, but since I don't plan to be doing any 3D with it, it should be fine.

Photo's of the completed model...

Quaker Flash build

Quaker Flash build

So there she is.

For the motor tests, I used a freshly charged 3300 3s Gens Ace Lipo. The plane is fitted with a 50A esc / BEC, the EMP 3542 as pictured above and an 11 x 6 E prop. I connected up my wattmeter and eased the throttle open.

Bearing in mind that the thing weighs in at about 31/2 lbs, I was expecting to get about 260 watts at 20 something amps which would give a stately 75ish watts per pound. What I actually got was 420 watts at 39 amps. That's exactly 120 watts per pound!!!

So in conclusion;

1. Thank goodness I used the 50A ESC.

2. I think I need a smaller prop.

Edited By Andy Butler on 18/11/2012 14:24:46

Edited By Andy Butler on 18/11/2012 14:25:31

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That's a really nice build, Andy, well done!thumbs up

The nose certainly looks better with your re-design and I'll do the same when I get a round tuit.

I'd be inclined to leave the prop as it is and just tootle around on part throttle, only using full if you want a power climb. There'll be bags of capacity with a 3300mAh and you should be able to use a 2200mAh and still have plenty of duration. I don't think I've ever come close to using a full pack in my Black Magic and it just hangs up there for ages......

Having the pack on the C of G makes it easy to swap, which helps and with less payload, it will float even more.

A video of the maiden, perhaps?smile

Pete

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Pete,

Definately, as soon as it dries out - the track to the field is waterlogged at the moment and even the farmer can't get there in his tractor. Might have to wait till it freezes, or dries out.

I might try a 2200 at some point, would be quite a bit lighter, and use the 3300 if it's a bit blowy.

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  • 6 years later...

Andy, I am building a Quaker myself but a little smaller then your job. Mine is from a U.S. kit manufacturer who is trying to reproduce some of the older kits,--you know, box of wood, plans, some wire,--. I am not familiar with the idea of reeds. Is it not balsa? I was planning on steamed thin balsa for the curves. I am using the same type of hinges, and as on yours they go right through the wood. I have added extra pieces of balsa strip for more support. On the gear, I thought I would also try a small spring instead of the rubber band. As for power, I am planning on an OS 15 or an HP-VT 21 4 stroke, the latter a bit heavier rather than added lead. I think Trexler or similar, wheels would look neat oldtimy -------------Bob C in Kansas.

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