Acro Wot ARTF (balsa) chat

[Tomtom39]

My electric conversion of the Acro wot ARTF has been a splendid success. It flies very well on both 3 and 4s Lipos (4000 & 5000Mah 35C) Props were 14X7 for 3S and 12X6 for 4S . I will try and upload photos of the various changes ie built battery tray up to firewall.Opened up the recess ( which I presume was for the exhaust to have some clearance from the fuselage) I spent ages building a scoop - well a couple mins to saw the end of my wife's plastic coat hanger - which fitted just right - Used Tamiya acrylic yellow - seems to match the covering rather well. I also drilled some exit holes to regulate airflow over the motor , battery and Esc using a couple of "Gaskin smoothbore/softbore tools" I did not have to add any extra weight to the front as moving the battery (and marking the tray for future ref set the C G within limits). Flight times were approx 10 mins on the 3S and 8mins on the 4S with approx 25% of battery charge left.

I have also flown an ARTF Acrowot with an Irvine 53 but preferred the handling of my Electric one

Anyone else attempted Electrifying this ye?t

[John Allen]

Here I was all set to put the Irvine .53 in, and now after all the posts I'm considering the ASP .91FS that was destined for the Harrier 90 3D. At only 10g more than the 70FS, it would make a great powerful motor for this model.

Decisions,decisions,decisions....

[Stephen Grigg]

Thanks for that David i will remember when it arrives.Im considering an SC 61 or SC 52 4 str. have both available.

[Paul Marsh]

Just been doin' a bit. Found that the rudder servo needs to be raised so the closed loop clears the elevator arm. Also gets it out of the way. Replaced all the horns, as they are diabolical and look rubbish.

Bit of a pain putting the closed loop in, as not inners to guide the wire. used sullivan inners as a exit guide and prevent wear round the hole. Not far now, cowl and final checks. Need to buy a Ali spinner, as the plastic one is a nasty white/yellow hue, looks like the RCM&E Acrowot gained a shiny spinner later on in the review...

Edited By Paul Marsh on 27/06/2012 21:12:20

[DG3]

Posted by Paul Marsh on 27/06/2012 20:53:29:

Just been doin' a bit. Found that the rudder servo needs to be raised so the closed loop clears the elevator arm. Also gets it out of the way. Replaced all the horns, as they are diabolical and look rubbish.

Bit of a pain putting the closed loop in, as not inners to guide the wire. used sullivan inners as a exit guide and prevent wear round the hole. Not far now, cowl and final checks. Need to buy a Ali spinner, as the plastic one is a nasty white/yellow hue, looks like the Rcm&e gained a shiny spinner later on in the review...

Paul, I agree about the spinner and horns. Cheap and nasty. Otherwise the kit seems well put together. Did you CA the tailplane in? Is this ok as a method? I don't fancy trying to epoxy it in as it would be messy. My plan is to CA the tailplane both sides then get epoxy in where the fin goes just to give it extra strength. Does this sound ok? Also, what is canopy glue? Would hot glue suffice?

[Paul Marsh]

I epoxied the tailplane in. Problem with ca is a bit brittle (and a clout will knock it loose) and clouds the film. A tip for using epoxy is to put masking tape after the join on the fus and tail. Smear it on, and when all aligned up, pull the tape off, leaving glue where it should be. Any spills can be mopped up using Methlated Spirits and a clean cloth.

Canopy glue is a sticky glue, when set dries clear. Reason why it's so good, as it sticks plastic much better than epoxy and very tacky - will not crack or loosen.

[Gareth Thomas]

Hi all, just maiden my acro flys perfect. Asp 80 FS swinging apc 13x8 9000 rpm. Hs 425bb all round, as for c&g fitted 6v 3300 sub c pack under tank balanced at 88mm so within tolerance. It's a bit slippery on landing just goes on and on but there was no head wind.You will not be disappointed, spoil yourself and happy flying.

[Tomtom39]

Following on from Gareth Thomas's post. I have from experience of my Wot 4 mixed in Flaperons - which I find a real benefit on calm days with little headwind or that nasty cross wind much favoured on our strip

Regarding issue on horns and clevises. I normally go about chucking out usual rubbish found in some kits. and instal Pete Tindal linkages. However in this instance I was determined to use what came with the kit and have found them to be more than adequate for the job. (although I may swap the plastic clevis for metal ones when I complete my IC Acro - using good old laser upfront!)

[Redex]

Hi Tomtom39, I am also looking at an Acro wot ARTF electric conversion and so would be really interested to see your conversion photos posted - also what motor are you using. I have a KMS 4120/05 spare which might be OK.

[Max50]

Just checked and the weights of the ASP70 FS and 80 are the same at 630grms just in-case you thought balancing out better with a bigger ASP would help.

[John Allen]

From past experience using an ASP 60FS in a Blackhorse Blade, I think the Acro will be very under powered with the same motor. You will need the 70FS at least, or in my opinion the 91FS for real fun.

I've almost decided to leave the .53 Irvine in the Wot4, and put the .91FS in the Acro. I can always get a nice Saito 1.25a for the Harrier 90 3D later in the year, or even next year, plenty of models to keep me going for now.

[chris basson]

Got my bench sorted at Last!
Had a first look @ my kit lastnite, got to say Quality seems improved over the Wot4, couldn't See any dry joints, liked that little incidence pin on wing root!
Do you guys really think control horns aren't up to the job?
Replaced closed loop on wot4 with a snake but will try the pull-pull system again as it seems to have a lot of fans, maybe I was tryin 4 too much tension

[Stephen Grigg]

Can you so some photos as you put it together Chris would be very interesting

[Mike F]

 .. Firstly may I say how good the overall quality of the kit is.

Jusr a couple of mods and ideas. I like nylon bolts to the undercarriage not the 3mm steel supplied  that will tear the fus to bits on a heavy landing or hit a rabbit hole on our grass strip .I made a 2nd plate of 4mm ply.. to fit inside with 6mm blind nute well epoxied on.A fidly job fitting as the wing mounting slot is deepand dont forget to file a slot in the centre if the plate obstructs the wing tongue. I like to pin my hinges but not mentioned.. I have not done so yet ,any comments please.

Many Idea i liked the inset wing servos for which i have mad litho plate covers the inclusion of all hardware and the gloosy step by step instructions although getting the rudder wires throug the fus is a bit fidly.I found i could  push and wriggle an 18 gauge  piano wire through from back to front, then tape and a spot of cyan to attech  the stranded wire to and then pull trhough.

What a review the RCME gives, after i had bought and completed moving surfaces and radio fitted I read that 8 ounces of lead were required in the nose and with a 70fs fitted.Surely a design fault! There is plenty of room to move the 3 rear mounted servo,s to the c of g or in front..I am waiting for an engine so do not know where the C of G will come out with the battery forward under the tank and the throttle servo just behind the tank.It is bad enough having 8 oz of lead in a scale warbird but i do not want to carry it in a sports model. Designing a light aerobatic model and then adding wieght to get the C of G forward is erm dumb.. Or did they not build a prototype.If I need to add 8 oz of lead I will grasp the bbullet and re.make control rod and move the servos.

Comments welcome it looks a great model and should fly well..

 

Having said that i had a mk1 for 2 years and last winter built the wots wot bipe last winter so looking forward to flying this,

Edited By Mike F on 28/06/2012 11:20:36

Edited By Mike F on 28/06/2012 11:24:15

[John Allen]

8oz is 226g, thats 2 whole packs of stick on lead weights, ludicrious.

Maybe a ASP 1.20FS up front would alleviate this problem

Edited By Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator on 03/07/2012 00:03:41

[Robin Kearney]

I was wondering about this nose weight issue. Is it possible that when Chris designed the Acro engines were heavier than they are today? And that a 70FS or 602S from the 80's would have helped balance it out?

Although as I wrote that I find myself thinking a early engine might be heavier but not half a pound heavier!

r.

[John Allen]

I found myself in a similar position recently when building my Blackhorse Yak54, I would have to add a whole pack of stick on weights. Instead I moved the receiver battery to where the LIPO would go if you went the electric route.

However the ASP 60FS is a bit underpowered on this model, and if I'd dumped the engine mount and gone with either my 80FS, or 91FS, the balance would have been fine, and I'd have had all that extra power too.

I note that someone else place a 6v 3300mah battery under the tank to sort the balance problem out.

[Former Member]

[This posting has been removed]

[John Allen]

I guess every model is different. I had 2 H9 SuperStick 60's, the first needed the 6v 3300mah battery under the tank, the second had the same battery behind the servo tray.

Hard to believe really.

[Josip Vrandecic -Mes]

David,I just now noticed this clip...perfect sound and Your piloting skills.... as usual...

Thanks

Jo

[Stephen Grigg]

Hopefully Galaxy will still be able to supply the model to me and Im getting good tips fromhere before the model arrives thankyou chaps

[Tomtom39]

I've just finished putting my second Acro wot Artf together , this one with a Laser 70 up front. No weights needed to get correct C G position (I have used a large Nimh battery - 4800. Had to to carry out a little bit of trimming on the former behind the firewall to fit both battery and tank. I have reinforced the former with some Carbon Cloth on a just in case basis!)

Weather pretty rubbish to test fly it.

Wife thinks I've gone bananas as I keep stroking my Laser!!!!! Anyone else out there with similar tendencies or am I the only one?

[DG3]

Anybody else have to add nose weight? Am fitting a 70fs. Considering moving servo tray but that may be too much hassle. I really don't fancy adding up to 250g lead up front. Such a waste. Pity the nose isn't slightly longer. Would rather fit a 90fs and get the benefit of the power up front.

Has anybody considered fitting a 15cc petrol (e.g. RCG)?

[Tomtom39]

Ouch! 've just helped setting up another club members Acrowot with OS 70FS up front. Needed close on 300g upfront to balance. Managed to get it down to approx 240g by epoxying them as far forward as we could ie inside cowl. This was after moving the servos forward (made up support plate for this) and putting a large Nimah battery (5000 Tornado) behind firewall/undeneath tank

He has ordered a Saito FG14 (Petrol) so will see how that works out

[Broken Prop]

Tomtom, you are not alone. Lasers have that effect on us!

Glad to hear that the 70 fits OK as I have one of those limed up for my Acrowot when it arrives. Shame about needing to visit the local church roof again tho'........

Edited By Peter Ward on 01/07/2012 10:54:59

Edited By Peter Ward on 01/07/2012 10:55:38