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SLEC Funfly Build


Aky208
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Hi all, have a question about parts W44 and W45.

Are they supposed to be the same, on my kit W45 is larger and one end of the curvature ends in a point. W44 is smaller and the curvature ends in a 'thicker' point , therefore they have a different curvature. If that makes sense !!

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I/we had a load of fun with these funflys when they first came out(1990's).....I had two of them.....one of them I didn't bother with the slight amount of dihedral and I increased the rudder width by 1/2"...it would knife edge from one side of our field to the other no problems......I had a OS 40 2st in it......happy days.... may be time to build another....

ken Anderson ne..1 ...... funfly memories dept.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi Caveman, I have another question about W66 the wing leading edge strips. I am just about to glue these into position but I am not sure about the fitting of both ends of W66 which touch the wing dowl W61.

Does each W66 have to shaped and cut at the end so that it goes around W61 the wing dowel, or does each W66 just butt up against the edge of W61. Also does the W66 part hidden under the 'canopy' also have to be shaped to the profile of the wing sheeting or is this left as is. Pic 30/31 don't quite show the front part of the wing.

Many thanks for your help. TDP

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Hi Redex, I notched the leading edges to fit round the dowel to give a sturdier job.

Where the leading edge is under the canopy I rounded it on the underside so that it fitted the fuselage correctly, and on the top side as well, with the expection of the 10mm or so above the wing dowel (it's difficult to get at easily with the sanding block there).

The top has to be shaped correctly in order to accommodate the 'canopy' side pieces F79 when you come to fit them.

It just so happens that I've been flying my Funfly this afternoon, hence my late reply.

You may recall from a previous post that I damaged a wing rib at the maiden flight. It's now fixed and re-covered.

I also have replaced the dodgy HK servos with Futaba 3003s (from Steve Webb Models, so genuine items) all round - I've much more confidence in them.

Flying this afternoon absolutely fine. With an Irvine 46 up front she's very spritely and is quite acrobatic - highly recommended. You won't be disappointed!

Crack on!

Cheers GDB

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  • 3 months later...

Hi all - taken awhile but nearly there with the SLEC electric FunFly, constructed and covered, motor/esc/LiPo mounted but not yet fully run, hopefully later in week.

But I have a question about the CofG, in so much as is there some advise as to where it should balance. The instructions state 25-30% back from leading edge but as I am not sure how to measure this, I was wondering if anybody has some practical experience e.g. X cms back from leading edge, which I can try. Also does the FunFly need to be inverted when measuring the CofG. Currently the AUW is about 2100 gms with a 4S 4500 LiPo.

Many Thanks

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OK so after my full power test - the drive train I am using is an Emax GT2826/05, EnErG Pro 60 SBEC, Dynamic 4S 4500 LiPo, 12*6 APCE prop.

Using this setup on a full power static test gives input power of 663 Watts and 46A. The current AUW of the FunFly is 2084 gms and the CofG at 7 cm back from the leading edge. Thats the easy bit, now just got to set the servo travel and then the interesting bit the maiden flight !!

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Hi Redex,

The wing chord is about 252mm (on mine!) so I've set the CoG at 65mm from the leading edge, but anything up to 75mm should be fine. I balanced mine the right way up - if it's properly balanced it will sit horizontal no problem, but upside down would be OK if that's easier.

Just out of interest, my Funfly flew really well, until disaster struck in the guise of a mid-air collision with a high-wing 0.40 flown by another club member - not his fault. His prop took off about 60% of my right wing!

A spiral dive ensued and the Funfly ended up as the proverbial lawn dart! (He landed safely with a one bladed prop and no other damage)

funfly lawn dart.jpg

So, the wing was damaged and the the nose from the wing leading edge forward was destroy.

I took it all home and put in the loft in a binbag. But, I couldn't leave it there and decided to rebuild it.

Now it's an electric twin!!

funfly twin.jpg

Flies just as well and has that excellent multi-engine sound which is a bonus!

Apologies for the square nacelles and stubby nose, but I wasn't sure is it would work and didn't want to spend too much effort on it in case it didn't work.....may revise these.

Cheers GDB

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Mine went in after a stall turn, dived into the ground spiralling along the way. Radio troubles were the cause I think, as we put the radio in a Wot 4 and I was getting situations where I had no signal! Replaced it. Shame really, it flew so well. The wing is fine and the fuselage can be repaired, so one say I will do so and maybe have a bit more powerrr!

CS

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Mine went in after a stall turn, dived into the ground spiralling along the way. Radio troubles were the cause I think, as we put the radio in a Wot 4 and I was getting situations where I had no signal! Replaced it. Shame really, it flew so well. The wing is fine and the fuselage can be repaired, so one say I will do so and maybe have a bit more powerrr!

CS

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  • 6 years later...

Hi Geoff, the SLEC Funfly isn't supplied with a drawing. A pictorial instruction book is supplied which guides you through the assembly.

Almost all the parts are pre-cut and the various pieces slot together, so a drawing isn't really necessary.

I see that you mention the wing specifically - I have a rib template I used to recreate the wing which was destroyed in a mid-air collision if that's any good to you.

GDB

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MIne certainly came with a plan of the wing structure though perhaps I hadn't lined things up correctly when I took these pictures.

fun fly 4.jpg

fun fly 6.jpg

No problem though, the model flew well for years before it met its end due to radio failure.

fun fly apres maiden..jpg

Unfortunately I gave the plan to a clubmate who never built it, then his little boy accidentally set the house on fire!

The early Fun Flys (Flies?) had a foam veneer wing.

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Thanks Caveman. I'm on my 3rd Funfly. All 3 have been salvaged ones. This one is an electric converted fuselage now completed. It had foam wings with badly deteriorated veneer so Ive purchased a wingset from Slec. Got loads of drawings but thought there was a plan, maybe it was the original precedent plans i've seen.

Anyway, thanks again. I'll lay all the bits out and peruse the drawings and sketches. Its a good lockdown project!!

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That's good. Looking at the plan I reckon you might need the instructions & drawings with the part numbers on to see which bit goes where - there's some fiddly little bits that are not obvious.

If you didn't get the instruction & photo sheet it might be worth a phone call to SLEC.

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  • 8 months later...

Hi Guys

Don't know whether anyone's still following this thread, but if so, can you help.

About to start my FunFly build, and first ic model I have done since Gods dog was a puppy.

Any handy hints I should know about in advance?

So, first question.

Ken

Back in the dark ages you posted that you didn't bother with the suggested dihedral, and enlarged the rudder.

Was this by design or just because it looked right?

I have a Limbo dancer from the same stable, and it's done me proud for many years with a flat wing.

So, your thoughts?

Jeff

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On 26/08/2014 at 23:46, Caveman said:

Flies just as well and has that excellent multi-engine sound which is a bonus!

Apologies for the square nacelles and stubby nose, but I wasn't sure is it would work and didn't want to spend too much effort on it in case it didn't work.....may revise these.

Cheers GDB

 

 

Round engine cowls.

They will look like radials and be a nice contrast to the rest of the shape.

You could even put one with a dummy prop on the fuselage and make it look like a trimotor.  :classic_smile:

There are 2 aeroplanes, which most of us either have, or have had.

The Funfly (Slec, or Precedent) and the Mini Robot.

Both provide hours of fun (both flying and repairing).

  • Like 1
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15 hours ago, Jeffrey Cottrell 2 said:

Any handy hints I should know about in advance?

 

Rustins Plastikote, when you come to need fuel proofer, I swear it is identical to the old 2 pack tufkote type proofers.

 

Logic RC tanks are good. SLEC engine mounts are good. Self tappers work fine to hold the engine on the mount (esp. at this size) but go up to T-nuts for the firewall.

 

Don't use plastic snake for throttle, go with wire pushrod or bowden cable (they don't change length with heat).

 

See various Pete Miller build threads for the easiest route to making a block cowl.

 

Most of the rest is just like building for electrics.

 

What motor are you fitting?

Edited by Nigel R
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Hi Nigel, thanks

You must be reading my mind. Having not built an ic model for 20 years or so, my first question would be about fuel proofer.

I do have a couple of sorts of epoxy resin in my goodies box, but would you think that Rustins product might be better.

SLEC website says fuel tank and engine mount are in the kit, so I'll see what I have when it arrives.

Still hoping to hear back from Ken as to why he built his without dihedral. Sounds interesting.

Work in progress

Jeff

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Ah, well, if you're already familiar with various resins then don't bother, epoxy is fuelproof and already in your skillset.

 

I can't see that a midwing aerobat will need any dihedral. I'd build it flat, too.

 

SLEC tanks are good (the square ones) - only caveat, make sure the area around the clunk fitting is clean and the rubber seal can sit flat, I have had one or two with a spot of moulding flash there.

Edited by Nigel R
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