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Reversing the Motor Shaft

Step 1 - Remove the circlip on the shaft (motor wire wire end)

Step 2 - replace circlip in groove on end of shaft

Step 3 - loosen hex grub screw holding shaft

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Step 4 - Place in vice with socket

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Step 5 - gently tighten vice to push shaft through

 

Step 6 - retighten Hex grub screw

 

Job done, time 2 mins

 

imag0073.jpg

Edited By Tim @ ModelMarkings.com on 06/12/2012 17:13:49

Edited By Tim @ ModelMarkings.com on 06/12/2012 17:14:05

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I haven't bought the motors for my Tucanao yet but I have done some re-motoring on a couple of my models.

First I replaced the brushed 600 in my old Sonata 'E' (I'd run out of 7 cell NiCads and wanted to use my 2200 3S LiPos).

I've used an NTM Prop drive 3536 1400kv with a folding 9x6 prop which draws 35 amps flatout. I haven't flown it yet but it should be more than adequate That's about 400 watts but a 10x6 could be used for a bit more without letting any smoke out

I've also converted my scratch-built Limbo dancer to elelctric. It's ended on 4S but I did fly it on 3S first and got these results.

motor is XYH3548 790 kv and it drew 32 amps for 350 watts on a 13x6.5 prop. Flew quite well on that and it weighs about the same as the Tucano.

I ended up with 12x5 prop on 4S for 35 amps 550 watts - ballistic!

I think either of these motors, the latter with a higher kv and smaller prop, should work on 3S for the Tucano. I fairly sure they're both XYH - the NTM is just badged differently. In any case I intend to use a folding prop and not have an undercarriage but take-off with a dolly.

Geoff

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Robin if the specs on the HK site are correct then their claimed 700w max power is way out a max of 40 amps on a 3s lipo will give you app 440w. (700W would require 63.6A @ 11V)

440W is prob just about right for the tuc unless you want balistic performance.

As for the ESC its max burst rating is only 55A which is ok if your not asking more than 40A from the motor although to er on the side of safety I'd look for an ESC with a burst current of about 70A and a cont current rating of 40 or more amps just in case the motor is stalled as their rating of 700W could be its stalled rating perhaps mr Mackey could advise better

You don't say what the C rating of your lipo's are but assuming a C rating of 25 the max you should ever attempt to draw from them is 55A or 55000mAh (25 X 2200mAh) so they will be fine although flight time will be limited at Full Throttle although if weight allows 2 teamed in parralell would give you a much more extended flight time

For the prop a good starting point is turnigy's smaller recomendation of 10 x 6 and have an 11 x 6 in case it needs propping up best to check this in a static test with a watt meter unless you have inflight telemetry to see a more accurate picture of what happens in flight

 

Phil

Edited By Phil Winks on 12/12/2012 22:14:19

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Thanks for the quick response guys, the LiPos I have are 35C Constant / 70C Burst according to the HK site. If they end up giving too short flight times I'm happy to buy bigger capacity, but they certainly sound like they should get me going.

It does look rather like a bigger ESC will be needed though. I notice HK have the Plush 60A and SS Series 60-70A in stock in the UK Warehouse, does anybody know why the Plush is twice the price of the SS series, is it worth it for a electric beginner?

Ta for the link to that tool Tim, I've just got it downloading now and will have a play, looks very useful!

r.

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Thanks for the advice Tim.

I placed an order for the SS version 60amp ESC last night, along with some servos and an Orange RX. I've only ever used branded Spektrum RXs in the past but given the price (under a fiver) I figured I might as well give it a go. Might put it in a cheap foamy for its first few outtings just to make sure!

r.

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Robin I take it you spotted this paragraph on the HK web site it might explain some of the price difference

 

 

Note:
This ESC is OPTO, with no BEC supplying power to your receiver. You will need an extra power source for your receiver. (such as UBEC or Rx battery pack)
If you hear the music tone repeat for more than 3 times, you may need to check your power source to the receiver.
 
 
an easy fix as a decent Ubec is quite cheap and can simply be wired in paralell with the ESC to power the Rx
 
 
 
Phil

Edited By Phil Winks on 13/12/2012 18:48:25

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Posted by Steven Buckingham on 18/11/2012 00:52:16:

There are other brands out there. Not sure about using HK personally, I'm going to invest a lot of time and emotion into this build, and call me old fashioned, but I'm thinking HiTec servos and an E-Flite (maybe even OS) motor?....

They are all made in China. I have been using Turnigy gear from 150 watt to 1500watt for three years now, including Motor, ESC and Battery. No problems and with the new UK warehouse returns shouldn't be a problem. I always test my set up with a Watt meter. questions like will this be OK with a 10X6 prop are answered in 2 minutes. No one should start electric flight without one.

Edited By Glyn R on 13/12/2012 19:45:42

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Posted by Robin Kearney on 12/12/2012 22:39:52:

Thanks for the quick response guys, the LiPos I have are 35C Constant / 70C Burst according to the HK site. If they end up giving too short flight times I'm happy to buy bigger capacity, but they certainly sound like they should get me going.

 

It does look rather like a bigger ESC will be needed though. I notice HK have the Plush 60A and SS Series 60-70A in stock in the UK Warehouse, does anybody know why the Plush is twice the price of the SS series, is it worth it for a electric beginner?

 

Ta for the link to that tool Tim, I've just got it downloading now and will have a play, looks very useful!

 

r.

 


I use Turnigy Plush ESC 60 and 80 amp in several models, I would recommend them.

Edited By Glyn R on 13/12/2012 19:50:12

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Finally got the 3536/08 1000kv motor on the test bed.

with an 11x7 MA HK clone prop

peaked 310w, settled to 295watts around 29 amps on a less than fully charged 2200 3s Turnigy battery

Prop speed around 7900rpm, slightly better than predicted, thats around 1.4kg (49oz) of calculated thrust

So with my predicted 36 OZ AUW weight , thats a thust ratio of 1.36 and 131 watts per pound, and 89kmh pitch speed

I think it might fly!!

It will take a bit more prop, but these seem pretty bang on predictions, so will stick at this.

I will run some comparatives with the AXI 2820/10 thats in my existing Tucano, thats got a APC 11x5.5e prop

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I ran the comparative power checks againt rge AXI 2820/10 in my Current Tucano, this provides a useful power baseline as this was the setup in Nigels original prototype

The AXI on an 11x5.5 APC e Prop

32Amps and 330w, I did not run a prop RPM check,

So its about 10% more than the 3536/08, given that the target weight of the New Tucano is about 10% less the Power to Weight should be pretty similar.

Not only that the AXI cost over £50 back in 2005, the 3536 now £12, how times have changed!

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Posted by Tim @ ModelMarkings.com on 15/12/2012 18:13:47:

Not only that the AXI cost over £50 back in 2005, the 3536 now £12, how times have changed!

Thats all great info Tim

however times aint changed that much, back in 2005 I was buying my 1st brushless motors and paying about the same for comparable motors to the turnigy (which I've bought for this build) and if you check this link you'll see the axi is still in the £50 bracket ,and then some at some retailers! Its a bit of a suprise to me its still in production, as I'd be suprised if its anything close to value for money

Phil

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I've opted for an XYH3542 1000kv from Giany Shark. It's slightly heavier that a 3536 but a bit of extra weight up front might be worth it. In any case, it's easier to prop down if it's too much than find you need more power and be unable to get it and contain the smoke at the same time.

I think XYH are actually the manufacturers of a lot of similarly numbered motors ostensibly from different sources. Giant Shark also include a fitting kit in the £12.04 price. I'll be using a Black Mantis 50 amp esc from the same source mainly because I already have a couple of similar 60 amp versions in other models and I have a programming card.

Not sure what LiPo pack to use. I have 2200 Mah amd 2650 mAH 3S packs as well as 4S 3600 mAh. The bigger packs are exactly the same length and width as the smaller but twice as thick ; they're obviously heavier but that might not be a disadvntage for balance.

I intend to use a folding prop of suitable size without an undercarriage. I'm crap at hand launching but I'll make a simple launching dolly to tke off on our tarmac runway and belly land on the grass. The folder will be less likely to get broken on landing.

Geoff

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Geoff As I said on my build thread that motor you've chosen is a cracker regarding hand launching I'm assured this baby is a breeze to get in the air with an under arm lob virtually pulling itself out of your hand and as the underarm method has the nose pointing skyward there's less chance of the swoop earthwards having the prop close to the ground with throttle on before your launching hand gets back on the stick

Phil

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  • 3 months later...

Anyone got a view on if a Hi-model HCS 3516-1130 from my defunct Multiplex Acromaster will do the trick? Its about 350 watts on a 3s lipo and a 12 x 6 prop. Weight is 134 grams. I'm thinking of building the Tucano without the U/C so I think 350 watts may be enough to fly it fairly well.

This motor doesn't come with a back mount option but I would prefer to have the weight being taken by a fuselage former with more support around it then hanging it out the front attached to F1. So I may order a 'firewall' back mount kit as well and then have the motor supported by an F1a 'similar to shown in Phil Winks build.

This backmount kit would then make it fairly easy for me to swap in a bigger Himax motor if I find the 3516-1130 doesn't have enough oomph.

**LINK**

Anyone got an opinion?

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Hi James s 350 watts should give you reasonable performance and a 12 inch prop will look ok in flight so I'd say go for it Mate ! I'd obviously go for ther back mount but then I'm biased that way lol

Thats a very blingy mount there by the way

Phil

Edited By Phil Winks on 31/03/2013 17:02:42

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Thanks for the response Phil. I agree a back mount looks the sensible way but I'd have to buy another motor which supports that configuration and would really like to re-use the Hi-Model one. Its been sitting in a box since the battery broke loose in the Acromaster in flight and that was the end of that particular model. Still that has provided me with a motor, ESC and a set of servo's so it wasn't all bad...

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Hi Phil, yes thats the one. I've been lurking on this forum for a few months waiting for the weather to warm up so I can start to build in the garage. Its been so cold for so long now I've decided to have a go at building in-doors - got to be careful not to let the kids get too 'helpful' with the glues or scalpels though. As I've been waiting for so long to start building I've had a good read of many of the build blogs and the general chat forum. I'm planning to use your removable wing ( v5 ) and have a copy of your download that includes an F1a which I can modify.

Edited By JAMES S on 31/03/2013 19:18:39

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Hope you find the drawings helpfull James

you will find there is possibly some shaping to do to the top of F1a as when I drew it I wasn't sure if the fuse sides need pulling in at the top at that point or if the shaping is all done with sandpaper to the outside of the fuse, prob a bit of both.

I will be starting my build proper in the next week or so (workshop insulation and heating nearing completion) so I will know more when I get there just keep an eye on my build blog.

One thing you will have to do given the different motor is adjust F1 a's position

Phil

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F1a does need tapering in at the top a bit like F3, otherwise you will have a bit of a lump in your fuselage sides like I have. I had epoxied it in before I realised so my excuse is that my plane has an engine upgrade, it might be able to prop hang on the over 400 Watts I am expecting to get from the NTM 35-42 1250KV motor!
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Posted by Phil Winks on 31/03/2013 19:37:59:

Hope you find the drawings helpfull James

Certainly will!

I will be starting my build proper in the next week or so (workshop insulation and heating nearing completion) so I will know more when I get there just keep an eye on my build blog.

Wow - heated workshop - I need one of those!!!!


Phil

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