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Tucano power system chat

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Posted by WolstonFlyer on 31/03/2013 20:03:22:
F1a does need tapering in at the top a bit like F3, otherwise you will have a bit of a lump in your fuselage sides like I have. I had epoxied it in before I realised so my excuse is that my plane has an engine upgrade, it might be able to prop hang on the over 400 Watts I am expecting to get from the NTM 35-42 1250KV motor!

thanks for the hint WolstonFlyer - by the way I've found your build blog very informative and readable, very impressed at your rate of progress for a new builder, regards james

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Posted by JAMES S on 31/03/2013 20:08:11:

Wow - heated workshop - I need one of those!!!!

Don't get too excited James s its an 8 x 6 shed

just being a carpenter I had to make it the RR version lol

the heating will be a humble 2Kw fan heater albeit with a frost stat so I can be sure my frost sensitive glues etc don't suffer without it costing the earth.

The size limits me to a 60 nch wingspan but hey not had one that big ever and 49 inch is the biggest I can fit in my van so It'll do as they say in my native south yorkshire


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I'm not building a Tucano, but have been offered one for a song at my local club. I understand that things have changed re: battery weights, c. of g. etc., but my main problem is not knowing what motor to buy for it. I also would like to get hold of a picture that shows how the wiring from the motor to the ES/C battieries/receiver goes, and is there a switch (?) to turn it off on landing!? I'm getting into e/c flight with the aircraft I'm building now as a trainer backup to my i/c craft, but felt that the Tucano was too good to miss! Thanks in advance, everyone,

Den Moran , Abertawe

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Hi Den

There's quite a lot of info in the electric beginners section on this forum. Have a good look around there.

That's ***HERE***

Alternatively, have a look at a booklet I wrote for beginners at our club. This won't fully help you choose a motopr, but it will help a lot with all the bsic principles. It has the basic wiring diagram.

That one is ***HERE*** To make best use of this, theres a button towards the lower left of the screen that will make the view "full page".

On the switch question. No, there is no switch that would take the current and at the same time be light enough. Again there are various threads on the forum already about this. We either plug the battery in and out to "arm" and "disarm" the model, or we arange the wiring so there is some form of arming plug that we plug in from outside the model.


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  • 2 months later...

Hi all from New Zealand,

I have been looking for a project like this and stumbled across this Tucano mass build.

Can anyone tell me if this combo would be suitable for the Tucano.

AXi 2820/10


11.1V 2200 mAh Lipo 3S

These have been salvaged from a previous model and have been trying to find a project for them.

Cheers all

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Couple of things Sir John, with an 11x8 I am pretty sure you will pulling more than 40 amps ( I have the same motor and pull 38amps on full throttle with a 3s and a 10x6 APC prop ) also depending how your firewall is attached it may seperate from the fus "ask me how I know that" .
I am not even sure if the 2820-10 is rated for that voltage stick with a 3s and prop accordingly and it will be a perfect setup.
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Holy smoke, nope a 4s is way too much on that prop, see my earlier post in this thread for a test on the Axi, I run a 3s and 11 x5.5 prop, it will take an 11 x 7 just, so you may get away with an 11 x 8.

If you want to use 4s, you will need to prop way down and it will be a real screamer, I would stick to a 3s, either 2 x 2200mah like Nigel of I use a 3000mah

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  • 3 months later...
Hi John

Similar to the answers above from Tim and Tony. If you want to run a 4S setup you will need to prop down, perhaps even smaller than the 10x6, testing with a Watt/Amp meter will give you the data to check.

I would stick to 3S and a larger prop for a more scale like appearance. See the other posts in this thread where Tim has given info of his setup also using a AXI 2820/10
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