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Precedent Stampe 1/4 Scale


cymaz

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I already have the offer of a DLE30 from a club mate at a similar price but the wrap around silencer for a DLE or a Zenoah (i gather they are interchangeable) Start at £95 ?all of a sudden you are at £225, having retired earlier this year i am baulking at that price. The price of the used engine is not the issue but i certainly am not going to pay close on £100 just for an exhaust. I will keep my eyes open for a used one at a reasonable price but i do have another option. All my other planes are electric up to 6s although i have flown a SLEC Chipmunk in the past on 10 a123 cells which is probably equivalent to 8s lipos, amongst my stash of electrickery stuff i have a new in the box Turnigy Aerodrive  SK3-5065-280 motor, this will do up to 10s and be more than enough for the Stampe, i also have an ESC to suit. For £160 i could buy 4 5000mah 5s packs which would be 2 flights or 3 with a charge in between. I always take several planes so 3 flights in a session would be max on one of my planes anyway. No fuel costs added on top, at the moment i am thinking about which way to go. I know to many of you electric would seem sacriladge but i have a 1/4 scale flybaby in build and that will be petrol as i already have a Kalt 23 to go in that to get my `noise` fix!

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My experience of wrap around or Pitts silencers is that they don't do much to tame the 2 stroke bark.  They certainly won't pass a DoE Noise Test.  If that is not an issue for you, and you don't mind a whiney 2 stroke noise then that's a solution.  If noise is an issue, what about hanging a canister under the model.  Pay around £65 for a decent canister (Chinese built canisters don't get down to 82 db either).  You will need to spend money on a manifold - Just Engines do bespoke ones.

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I have a Tiger Moth of similar size with a 26cc petrol two stroke and chinese two outlet Pitts style silencer.   In out of the box state they are useless as a silencer.   I closed off one outlet completely and sleeved the other down to a smaller diameter.

The  result puts the model into the 'very quiet' category for any ic powered model.  Sure it has lost some top end power but there's still plenty to loop and roll. As it spends most of its time wafting about at low throttle it's a solution that works for me.

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Nice looking model Bill, made a decision this morning on mine, going the electric route as i have had a scratch around and i have all the stuff here if i can make it work on 6s. my 6s packs are 3700mah so will be doubled up to make 7400mah, should get a good flight time out of that, maybe even two shorter flights. I will do a separate conversion thread on the site, i can get the batteries up front where the tank used to be and the cowl is already cut away at the bottom which is where the 2 packs will go in from. Looks like my motor/battery combo could give around 1400 watts so plenty for the odd loop, wing strength has been mentioned a few times so it won`t be anything too spirited!

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Each to their own, happy with my decision on power, motor mount is now extended with plywood i have had since i was 14......... i was 60 this year, part of it had been used to mix epoxy all those years ago. I was going to sand/grind it off but it reminds me of the stuff i was building way back then so i am going to leave the discoloured epoxy on as it is inside the cowl anyway ?

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I thought I had posted photos of my home made wrap round DLE silencer installation on my Stampe  but I cannot find them on the forum so here they are and the silencer just  and I mean just goes inside the cowling !!  It will burn a hole in a plastic one !lThe protruding corner in the photo has been now removed !!

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Electric conversion nearly finished on my Stampe, ran up the motor today, got the prop to balance then i can put a watt meter on it to see what we have! Now the servos are in it i can see the rudder has a nasty twist in it, no amount of steaming is going to take that out, i have set the rudder to compensate, it will probably require some trim. The right hand top wing aileron also has a bad twist, this may come out with a heat gun, that`s a job for tomorrow morning. Can someone give me some control throws, balance point and do the ailerons go on two channels to put some differential in are do you Y lead them to one channel? Will post some pictures tomorrow of the battery box and new motor mount............M

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For mechanical differential the easiest way is to angle the servo arms forward a few notches. Best to avoid Y leads and use two channels. Mine has four aileron servos on four mixed channels which makes life much easier but the trims work on one wing only, not a problem. 1" up and 1/2" down works and I have never tried changing it although I should do. I do not use rates on mine, just expo.

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Ran the motor up today on the 2x6s packs in parallel on the 18x10 prop, the watt meter showed 43amps  and it is giving 1050 Watts, it would probably fly on that but i was looking for around 1400. I have 20 amps to spare so have ordered  20x10 and a 21x10 props to try out as long as it stays under 65 amps i am ok. Apart from that i just have to sort the c of g out, what is the recommended point for a first flight? I have seen top wing rear bolts as a position and also the curve in the wing centre, any thought from those who fly them? Maiden will be sometime this coming week, dependent on when the props arrive and the wind is suitable for a test flight, good news is the warp came out of the aileron.

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