Jump to content

Precedent Stampe 1/4 Scale


cymaz

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...

Quick questions

....my Stampe , currently undergoing renovation , needs replacement wing struts and with a laser 150 should come out at 6.5kg without fuel.

1. Are the flying wires functional?

2. The Laser 150 weighs 953 gm....what will a laser 180 petrol with electronics and ignition battery weigh?

3. Will the 150 run OK inverted with the tank as in photo ? ( its not the laser in the photo ) 

 thanks

Bill

20210911_131744.jpg

Edited by William Macleod
Spelling
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

William, at 6.5kg you have weight to spare imho. My Stampe is 7.2kg and still a floater with all that wing area. I have a glow Laser 180 and to achieve the correct C of G had to move my battery pack to near the wing bolt plate and add 2oz lead under the tailplane ? 
Regards the wires it may depend on considerations that were made when the wing centre sections were constructed. The design isn’t ideal and several modellers on this thread added some beef at the lacking areas, which I did on my current Stampe in response, as well as adding rigging wires. However,  I built one 25 years ago with a Laser 150 which was 6kg and had no centre section mods or rigging wires. It flew inverted at times and was generally poked about to attempt a variety of manoeuvres and it stayed solid. 
Hard to see from the photo where the tank line will be for the Laser so best ask Jon Harper for bus advice on that.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mine has a Laser 180 now because I wanted the original 155 for something else. I did not bother to re balance with the much heavier motor but the performance would benefit from doing so. The model is due for a battery replacement and a little tarting up so I shall check out the cg while I am about it. Original weight was 6.2kg. I strengthened the wing centres during the build because as per plan they looked feeble. I kept breaking flying wires so put a small spring on each one and try as I may I have not managed to break a wing yet.

Regarding the inverted motor/tank set up I use you would need to flick back quite a few pages to see how I did it. The pics are on a different PC but I may be able to put them on here.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Decided that my model should receive a little maintenance. The thin balsa in the dummy tank had got quite crushed due to picking up the model so I put a skin of 1/ 32nd ply over the top and repainted the lower wing LE where bits churned up by the prop had damaged it.

The 5s Eneloop has been in since 2014 but although it still holds 1950 mA/hr I have replaced it with a 2s 1800 LiFe. Great until I switched on and - nothing. Came to life with some wire waggling so replaced the (new) XT60 to servo plug adapter but there was nothing wrong with the original. I then stripped the switch to find that bits of pcb with the wires attached came away. Probably a JR copy but since I had a couple of identical new ones it was replaced.

Next the interplane struts which were breaking up so I repaired the litho then covered them with Solartex.

Although not noticeable in the air, the elevator had lots of play. Unable to get at the rear end ball link, the play seemed to be mainly in the servo gears so I ordered a set of gears and a spare servo. Upon investigation it was more to do with a worn servo ball link so I replaced it and left the servo alone.

I also removed the NiMh from in front of the LE and put the new pack as far back as possible because an engine change from a 155 to 180 had moved the cg 1 1/2" forwards, although it would still spin OK.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Interested in reading your Stampe overhaul. I have also taken some of my C-FXME to bits. The engine was playing up and not tuning well. After another frustrating run in the garden, while hot, I just idly turned over the prop by hand....there was nearly 3-4mm of end play on the crank and a bit of grating to the touch. Oh dear, broken engine?

 

Not so, it turns out. The crank was rotating on the inside of the front bearing race. The bearing showed no signs of being a tight fit.

After a complete strip the front bearing slides on and off quite easily with no close tolerance at all.

New bearings have got the motor run well now. It’s now the turn of the fuel tank for a replumb

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had to raise the trailing edge of the upper wing by a couple of mm. There’s been quite a debate about the cg....if I can remember, it’s around the rear top wing fixing bolts. Some one will clarify. It’s a scary ride on a tail heavy Stampe, I know!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...