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Phil Winks' Tucano


Phil Winks
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Posted by Geoff Sleath on 16/12/2012 19:43:42:
Posted by Phil Winks on 16/12/2012 15:42:13:

the cross mount measures 41 mm across the centre those measurements are of the square formed by the hole centres ie: the 2 short sides of a triangle (29 x 29 =841 x 2 =1682 sq root of which = 41 pythagarus cheeky)

DUH! Considering geometry was my favourite subject at school (is it still studied?) and the proof of Pythagoras' theorem something I admired that should have occurred to me.

I thought there may be sufficient depth in the wing crank but the problem niggled at me last night when I couldn't sleep because of the lousy cold I have and it seemed worth a mention.

Whilst browsing today I ordered a motor and esc from Giant Shark. The motor is an XYH3542 1000 kv and a Black Mantis 50 amp esc. I already have a couple of Black Mantis esc and the programming card so it semed sensible.

I apologise for doubting you So it's 5mm wing bolts then?

Geoff

LOL no worries mate its good to have my work questioned it helps highlight unseen issues like I said no one (espcially me) is perfect. those XYH motors are tremendous I used a 1000Kv one in a westwings Fournier to great effect and the price is pretty unbeatable

The wing bolts are def 5 or maybe even 6mm if you want thanks for pointing that one out I'd hate to think someone lost a wing because I underspec'd on a drawing.

Phil

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted by Lucas Hofman on 14/12/2012 15:00:09:

Phil, you might have written it before but why do you intent to backmount the motor? Front mounting is a lot easier here, or do I miss something?

Regards, Lucas

Hi Lucas sorry missed this question earlier the reason for back mounting is because I intend to use a bolt on prop driver as opposed to a collet type prop driver the bolt on type fix to the rear of the rotating can of an out runner and provide a more secure fixing as well as making the shaft less prone to bends in the event of a less than perfect landing on a belly landing model

Phil

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Given the debate running in the general chat thread regarding glue preferences I thought I'd list my sticky stuff of choice and some typical applications

Aliphatic resin. Much like pva in consistency but yellow in colour, and with the advantage of being a little lighter and arguably slightly stronger. moderately fast grab versions are available but in general requires overnight in a warm place to achieve full bond strength. Also sands easier than pva and like pva can be mixed with fine sanding dust/talc to form a filler for small gaps. Widely available from model outlets builders merchants and DIY and tool stores

Foaming polyurethane. (gorrila or lumber jack) this is an extremely high joint strength foaming glue with some gap filling properties. great for wood to wood joints and available in 5min to 30 min set times. totally waterproof (used in wooden roof construction as well as the boat trade) heavier than aliphatic so use sparingly where extreme strength is a must. not for laminating due to the pressures exerted by its foaming action causing bubbles.

Epoxy resin available in very fast to very slow set times with mostly excellent joint strength properties but agian heavy so use sparingly

cyanoacrylate. (super glue) The range of these glues available is pretty staggering but basically they fall into one of 3 catorgaries.

!. Thin this is prob the most widely available and is also the fastest setting especially if used with an activator. very good for wicking into dry assembled joints though if the joint suffers flexing it is possibly too brittle

2.Thick as the name says a thicker glue with some gap filling properties slowest setting rate of the super glue and is usually sold with an activator used in joinery applications for skirting board external mitres amongst other things available both in builders merchants as "mitre mate" and through most model outlets. once again fairly brittle but good for fast adhereing of non structrual parts and areas not subject to flexing

2. Medium. This is simply a halfway house between the previous 2 with the same limitations

Hot melt glue appled as the name suggests with a heated applicator gun and outside of the foamie genre of model aircraft its use is limited to very occaisional use for tacking for instance pilots into seats and similar.

Thats about all the glues you'll find in my workshop although prob not the med superglue just one word of warning with the cyanoacrlate glues, 1st keep activator sprays and glue bottles at opposite ends of the work area, to prevent accidentle exspoure of one to the other very waste full and may cause the glue bottle to heat up if lots of activator get into it, watch out for the heat sometimes generated by the thinner varieties when in contact with moisture (skin burns highly possible) and keep even set glues from high temperatures. for instance power sanding a glued joint with a dremel will likely cause a vapourisation of the glue and the resulting puff of white smoke is like some kind of really aggressive tear gas and can not be good for the respiratory system.

The foaming polyurethane glues while carrying very limited health risks can be messy especially if you get it on your skin it can take days to get it of. (Voice of experience here lol)

With hot melt glues the dangers are self explanatory but still worth a mention as the guns have very hot tips keep fingers away

Epoxy glues should also be kept of the skin not only because they're difficult to remove but the can be quite irratating to skin

Hope this all is of some use to someone

Phil

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  • 2 weeks later...

Progress report. My workbench in my shed is close to completion just the electric 2nd fix to do and then I can make a start on the tuc lol. aside from getting my shed ready I've got most of my decals ready to print and incase anyone wants the Brazillian airforce 2004 display team colours I've stuck the pdf's up in my google drive all at A4 for simpler printing at home

26_4.jpg

PDF's here along with all the details of my removable wing mod (opens in a new window/tab)

Phil

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  • 1 month later...
Posted by WolstonFlyer on 21/11/2012 14:54:06:

Hi Phil

I agree with you about the motor wires being very stiff, I think they just extend the enamel coated winding wires out to the bullet connectors so that there are no solder joints inside the motor that could fail?.. [Edit] No they must join the wires somewhere inside the motor??

Good to hear that your prop driver fits OK, I must have just got a "friday afternoon" one I am not going to bother sending it back, it would cost more in postage than the part is worth, besides I added a couple more to my servo order that has been delivered to work today.. while I am at home with the kids because school is closed (flooding).

Edited By WolstonFlyer on 21/11/2012 14:56:19


I now always get this stuff from the UK site quick delivery and no postal return problems, although in 3 years experience I have never had to send anything back.

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Hi Phil

I've started my build and started a thread. I've made a firewall to your drawing and it sits 3mm proud of the fuselage side at the top. Is that intentional for some reason that will be revealed as the build progresses? My CNC cut fuselage side measures 67mm and firewall is specified at 70mm.

I'd be grateful for your response.

Geoff

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Hi Geoff

I have used Phils F1A firewall design and it is a perfect fit on my fuselage.

I have hand cut my parts rather than using the CNC kit. My fuselege sides are 70mm high at the front and this is also what my plan shows them to be.

It looks like your CNC parts may be a different size.
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Posted by Geoff Sleath on 07/03/2013 17:45:50:

Hi Phil

I've started my build and started a thread. I've made a firewall to your drawing and it sits 3mm proud of the fuselage side at the top. Is that intentional for some reason that will be revealed as the build progresses? My CNC cut fuselage side measures 67mm and firewall is specified at 70mm.

I'd be grateful for your response.

Geoff

Hi Geoff indeed the drawing shows the fuse sides at 70mm however it seems we've found another issue with the cnc pack my gues is that the cnc pack allows 3mm for the bottom of the fuse I would guess therefore that the excess to be removed from my drawings will be from the bottom of the fire wall but some carefull measuring will confirm this

Phil

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Thanks, Phil. I can adjust as required. A lot easier to do it before glueing than afterwards. As I mention in my thread, my drawing is from 2003 and shows the side at 68mm! I guess paper dimensional stabilty and/or print accuracy may be to blame. I don't suppose a 1mm error in motor thrust line will be significant. I'll be delighted if the finished model is within a 1mm tolerance.laugh

Geoff

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  • 4 weeks later...

Finally I've got some news to pass on all the wood, most of the hardware, all the drive train and courtesy of Tim@modelmarkings the markings are either here or will be by next weekend, so finally I'll be able to make a start constructing this and I just can't wait just need to restock my glue cupboard and its all systems go

thumbs10.jpg

Phil

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Yet more goodies ordered really gearing up for starting this properly now, A whole range of 9, 10 and 11 inch props including folding fixed and 3 blade fixed some very neat clevis systems for the aileron torque rods from HK plus a range of spinners and as a treat a digital computer 6 ch 2.4 ghz tx from GS I've plumped for the radio link one given the faultless service the 4 ch version has given me and its menu system is so similar to my old and trusty 35 mhz futaba 6ex so quite a small learning curve there

Mind you after the purchases of the last few days my bank manager may want a word frown

Phil

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Phil, I am making the ply parts for your wing centre section wing mod. The ply tongue assy has a cutout to take the servo so far so good. the servo wires will be underneath the tongue assy when the servo is fitted. I assume the tongue assy is let in to the centre section and glued to it, then how do the servo wires come out of centre section body?

I am missing something here, can you enlighten me?

Thanks

Mike.

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Posted by Mike Hardy on 04/04/2013 15:29:25:

Phil, I can see a way out for the wires and futaba connector by grooving the balsa under the tongue at the servo end but with the servo blocks fitted to the tongue assy the servo would have to enter the cutout vertically - I think!

Mike.

Hi Mike not sure how I missed this question last night. the way forward is to make the cutout in the balsa slightly larger than the servo at the end the wires exit the servo, and allow for them to run round to one of the nearest corners of the servo and create a notch in the ply plate here to allow the wires to exit then once the plate is attacached, with the mounting blocks set to allow a little play, feed the servo in as you say more or less vertically wire end 1st and this should, with a little fiddling allow the servo in reasonably easily, I hpefully will be making this centre wing section this sunday and then the photo's will start coming and hopefully answer this question fully.

 

Regards Phil

Edited By Phil Winks on 05/04/2013 18:43:28

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Pretty much all my goodies have arrived unfortunately so has the timber etc for her indoors's new garden room, so saturday is spoken for erecting that but with a good wind and fair weather I should be starting on sunday and will be concentrating on the wing 1st so some photo's of how my mod goes together will be finally forthcoming.

Phil

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Thanks Phil, a couple of points - the cut out for the servo wires will have to be quite large to accommodate the servo connector. For the 'standard' mini servo the servo bearers should be 3/8 (height) X 1/4 to avoid the servo popping out at the bottom of the centre section. The tongue assy almost extends to the other dihedral brace so it might be easier to to grove the centre section before gluing the braces to the ends.

Mike.

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mike the servo's I'm usaing are turnigy metal geared tg9y if memory serves, they're out in the shed at the min ! and not the larger mini servos not sure how the spacing works for larger servos also the servo plug shouldn't have to be passed through the cutout but if your passing it under the plate why not pop the conectors ourt of the plug body, remembering to note how they go back, and feed them through a much smaller gap ?

Phil

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Another little update I have this evening weighed and graded the balsa and have to say that the lightness of even the firm balsa surprised me, where I would expect firm or hard to come out about 10 lbs per cubic foot its coming in around 6 well done SLEC

hopefully the wings can be started tomorrow afternoon

one minor niggle the 3 servos I got (Turnigy t9y metal geared) were checked this morning and one has very limited movement one way and no amount of EPA adjustment will cure it, I,ve tried it on all the channels, suspecting my new Tx but its the same on every one and the other 2 are fine. has anyone come across this before I send it back to the HK uk warehouse

Phil

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  • 3 weeks later...

FINALY I've all but completed my new workshop fit out just 1 shelf to fit and get my modelling tools out of the lock up and I can at last start building this baby, most of the materials and hard ware is here, just a couple of spinners to arrive, oh and my new wire bending tool for the under carriage.

workshop 28-04-13.jpg

Phil (happy bunny dept.)

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Posted by WolstonFlyer on 28/04/2013 16:56:54:
That looks like a nice new and tidy building space

I might have to do the same with my shed eventually but it is full of kids bikes, garden tools and petrol mower at the moment.

Thats all either in the other shed or in my lock-up garage 2 streets away lol got to get the prioritys right mate wink as for tidy just wait till I start it'll soon get cluttered, my biggest failing frown however I think it shows how much can be done with a small space thats an 8 x 4 side bench is 400mm wide and 1200 long adequate for quite sizeable builds and the back is 1200 wide 600 deep room enough for most plan sheets, the pc monitor will be connected to my laptop docking stn hidden in the top drawer keeping the laptop out of the dust and harms way while I'm working

Phil

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