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Revolver Pusher type Autogyro trainer


Richard Harris
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Thanks Richard.  The only possible reason for this that I can think of is that the dimensions of the M2 balsa component in the Sarik kit are incorrect.  I guess I can cut two new M1 liteply side panels and a new, correctly sized M2 balsa piece, to suit a 6 X 13 mm mast.

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I've had a quick look and I built a Sarik version, though only had the formers. It looks like mine is a 3/8" mast and its been fine. 

If you do want to go 1/2" you could always stick some sandpaper to a piece of 1/4 x 3/8 " spruce and lengthen the rectangular hole by sanding it? should be pretty effortless I would think.

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5 hours ago, Tim Kearsley said:

A quick question - where are you Revolver builders installing the Rx?  I'm getting the impression that the LiPo needs to be well forward into the nose, for balance reasons.

Yes, lipo up the front followed by the esc and the receiver just below head servos on mine.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Sorry guys, one more question - I'm new to working with Depron.  The hinges for the rudder on the Revolver (mylar I presume?) - what adhesive do you use for fixing them?  Does thin cyano dissolve Depron?  I know UHU Por is one of the recommended adhesives for foam but it's a contact adhesive I believe, so not suitable for wicking into a furry hinge?

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Yes, thin cyano will dissolve Depron. You need a foam-safe cyano. It’s thicker though, so best to work it into the slots with a pin or thin wire before assembly rather than rely on it wicking in.

Edited by Trevor
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Well, my Revolver build has been going well.  The fuselage is built and covered and only the closed-loop rudder connections remain to be done.

So I thought I'd make the rotor blades.  I thought that too had gone well until I weighed them!  Two of the blades are within a gram of each other.  The third is..... over 5 grams lighter!!  I'm bemused, to say the least.  I can think of two possibilities:

 

1) I've not sanded a consistent profile, though I pasted templates on each end of each blade and thought I'd followed them reasonably accurately.

 

2) The balsa is of a lighter grade in the lighter blade.  I'm building from the Sarik short kit and I must hold up my hand and say that I forgot to weigh the supplied 6mm balsa to check for consistency.

 

Any thoughts how to proceed?

 

Thanks.

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Easy fix Tim,

 

Just weight up your lighter blade to match the other two, I use PVA applied with a sponge or you can insert a piece of lead.

The trick is adding the extra mass needed in the correct place so that it closely matches the others.

First balance all the blades to find there span wise CG and mark this.

This will give you a good idea where to apply the PVA, aim to keep these balance points as close as possible by applying it to the outer or inner portion etc.

What you must do is add it on and forward of the cordwise CG.

It sounds quite a procedure but it is quite simple to do.

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Thanks very much Rich.  I understand the general principles of adding weight to the lighter blade (thanks to your original article in RCM&E).  It was just the magnitude of the weight I need to add which bothered me!  I wasn't sure if adding PVA would be enough.  Many thanks again.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry guys, one more numpty question!  I've balanced the rotor blades using Chris's excellent YouTube video.  When it comes to mounting the head what order do things fit in?  There's the cap-head bolt,  Nyloc nut and a half-nut.  How are these used in fitting to the head?  Is it Nyloc nut first, then half-nut and the remaining thread screws into the head or vice-versa or the half-nut under the head?

Thank you.

 

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