Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services Posted October 18, 2013 Share Posted October 18, 2013 I decided to do this from scratch rather than buy the laser cut and wood pack and follow the magazine build article without too much variance, hope it helps any of the new builders out there (veterans don't look too closely ). I started off by photocopying all the main components to be cut out with the intent of ironing the image onto the wood. For some reason this didn't work so I glued them on using a glue stick so the paper is removable once finished with. After rough cutting to singles I attacked the wood with a hand fret saw and a sanding block. I found the edges of the paper tended to roll over or tear so also pin pricked vital positions through the paper and into the wood below (just in case). And after about 10/15 mins I had my first former finished So back to it and get the rest done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services Posted October 18, 2013 Author Share Posted October 18, 2013 Well that was fairly easy and swift, now have a complete set of ply formers and 3 pairs of ply ribs as templates for the actual ribs, not bad for a couple of hours work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services Posted October 18, 2013 Author Share Posted October 18, 2013 Ok fuz sides cut now as well, more bits in the morning and hopefully a full kit of parts will be ready by tomorrow afternoon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted October 18, 2013 Share Posted October 18, 2013 Great start Dylan! BEB PS I'll confess I'll probably get the laser cut CNC part pack - because I'm lazy! Edited By Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator on 18/10/2013 20:49:49 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services Posted October 18, 2013 Author Share Posted October 18, 2013 Cheers BEB, I wanted to do it this way as I won't have a choice with the 200% version, otherwise I probably would have gone that route as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted October 18, 2013 Share Posted October 18, 2013 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services Posted October 18, 2013 Author Share Posted October 18, 2013 I shall be making a 10 rib balsa sandwich between the ply ribs, so all are the same Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny Kirkham Posted October 18, 2013 Share Posted October 18, 2013 Taking shape now Dylan....ill be watching with interest because i fancy a go myself Johnny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services Posted October 18, 2013 Author Share Posted October 18, 2013 To be fair after studying the plan and making the first few parts, I really don't see too much difficulty with this build at all, even for a complete novice builder, thats obviously all credit to an excellent design from Mr Todd, certainly makes a change from the 1/4 and 1/3 scale agro I seem to be having just lately lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WolstonFlyer Posted October 18, 2013 Share Posted October 18, 2013 Very nice! Subscribing because I would like to build this model eventually - after the Tinker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services Posted October 18, 2013 Author Share Posted October 18, 2013 Does that make you a follower or a stalker? or even a spy for the competition? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WolstonFlyer Posted October 18, 2013 Share Posted October 18, 2013 Definitely a follower , it does look like you have a big head start on your build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services Posted October 18, 2013 Author Share Posted October 18, 2013 Well grab a can and a seat, this could be a long journey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted October 18, 2013 Share Posted October 18, 2013 Yes, I think the Dawn Flyer is a good choice for a first build - enough trad building to learn the basic skills but not so much as to be a bit daunting. BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services Posted October 19, 2013 Author Share Posted October 19, 2013 Ok, after making all the fuz formers and rib blanks, I decided not to make the actual ribs just yet and make a start on fuz construction. The first job is to position the motor on F1 (and F1a) since its easier now than when it fitted Next is to mark all the former positions from the plan to the fuz side F1 position is determined by your motor size and position, so measure this and make the appropriate adjustment to the marked former position on the fuz side. Then start gluing!, I tacked mine into position with thin cyno first then used super aliphatic down the joints to wick in. Always make sure formers are square! F1a and F1 are bonded with titebond II to each other after I positioned F1 on the fuz side. I decided not to fit the 6mm longerons first before the formers, but will add them after the formers have dried, this is purely personal prefference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services Posted October 19, 2013 Author Share Posted October 19, 2013 One thing I will be doing later is epoxying some triangle stock fore and aft of F1 for strength. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted October 19, 2013 Share Posted October 19, 2013 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services Posted October 20, 2013 Author Share Posted October 20, 2013 Ok first boob made, I measured and fitted F1/F1a to clear FC by 2mm and this doesn't allow for clearance of the trim on the front of the cowl, which ok the trim is purely cosmetic but I'd like to get this one right for this build blog, so will take a look shortly to see what can be done. Luckily I have epoxied in the triangular stock yet so should be an easy fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services Posted October 20, 2013 Author Share Posted October 20, 2013 Decided to leave the formers where they are and pack them up using some offcuts of ply to bring the motor forward, this is going to add a little weight to the nose, but that shouldn't be a bad thing. I have reshaped FC former to accommodate my chosen motor, this is purely to clear the prop driver The fuz longerons are now in situ And the doublers are glued in place Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services Posted October 20, 2013 Author Share Posted October 20, 2013 With the undercarraige bearers the build in the magazine recommends Hardwood blocks. I cheated a bit here since I don't have any suitable size stock and sandwiched several layers of 3mm ply together to give the depth needed. Once dry they will be shaped and glued into position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services Posted October 20, 2013 Author Share Posted October 20, 2013 The u/c bearers once dry were dry fit as is, and marked with a pen to show the shape required to make to fit the angled fuz sides. Once marked I placed them into a vice and used a block plane to remove the majority of unwanted material and dry fit again. Once happy, finish by sanding, although I have left them slightly proud to sand off in situ once glued in. They were glued and clamped in place with epoxy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services Posted October 20, 2013 Author Share Posted October 20, 2013 Upper front longeron measured up and dry fit spacers for motor fitted Triangular stock fitted for a bit more strength Upper longeron glued and trimmed to size Mummified to hold first of 2 top sheeting in place Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted October 20, 2013 Share Posted October 20, 2013 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services Posted October 20, 2013 Author Share Posted October 20, 2013 Cheers PV, yes Titebond is in my arsenal, as well as many others, but I think I do have a preference to TB. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devcon1 Posted October 20, 2013 Share Posted October 20, 2013 Speed building or what, fantastic.... what's your ETOM ? Regards John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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