Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services Posted October 20, 2013 Author Share Posted October 20, 2013 cheers SBTG, its the design that makes it a nice simple quick build (so far). It will probably slow down this week now as I need to finish my Stampe for a week on Weds, But I will keep t it. Hopefully finish it in 2 maybe 3 weeks? we'll see lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services Posted October 22, 2013 Author Share Posted October 22, 2013 Ok bit more done tonight Fitted the wing seats before working on 2nd half of the top front decking. Cut and measured to 2nd piece of top decking, chamfered the edge and glued in position held by masking tape (wetting one side of the balsa really helps with bending). While this dried I started work on the rear lattice work The can is there to make sure the longerons stay flat Tail support added (this isn't shown on the free plan but is mentioned in LT's mag writeup). And onto some sanding... and there you go, more tomorrow kiddies Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Bennett Posted October 22, 2013 Share Posted October 22, 2013 nice job. looks like another one to go on my list. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services Posted October 22, 2013 Author Share Posted October 22, 2013 Thanks Tony, you'd have this one done in a couple of hours lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Fontana Posted October 23, 2013 Share Posted October 23, 2013 Does anyone have concerns that once the top forward fuselage covering and cowl are in place, the motor is effectively sealed in and not accessible for tightening nuts, adjustment in thrust line or replacement, since I presume a platform will be installed later beneath it to support battery, ESC etc. Just a thought... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services Posted October 23, 2013 Author Share Posted October 23, 2013 What goes underneath the cowl at a later date is a magnetic hatch, its cosy in there but not impossible, plus the thrust lines are indicated on the plan and should be preset when installing the motor. And thread lock helps nuts coming loose Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services Posted October 23, 2013 Author Share Posted October 23, 2013 Ok so tonight I carried on with the rear end...ooer missus! First job was to attach the top assembly to the front part of the fuz, this isn't quite as easy as it looks so plenty of dry runs to check you have it right Then you need toglue a hard balsa longeron into the fuz keel plate When dry, this is then glued to the rear bottom of the front fuz, this actually locates verye easily Then cut out and attach the rear stern post using a scrap piece of 6mm balsa Now Lindsays article refers to 6mm spacers for this part, but again the free plan doesn't show anything, but I have now added some triangular stock into the bottom of the joint of the stern post and bottom longeron and there are some 1.5mm liteply triangles to fit to the outside top. Bit of a lazy night for me tonight, but now off work till monday so can get cracking on with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted October 23, 2013 Share Posted October 23, 2013 Very nice blog Dylan. This is exactly how the Mass Build works at its best. Over the coming months there will be several blogs by experienced builders like Dylan. You will see that each will take, interestingly, a slightly different route to end up with basically the same model - one of the fasincinations of plan building is that there is room for you to do it "your way"! These blogs, taken together, will help the new builders to create their models. When it works like this it works really well. You're getting me itching to get started Dylan - but I must at least finish the wing on the Tiffie first! BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services Posted October 23, 2013 Author Share Posted October 23, 2013 Don't you dare start this till that tiffie is finished! we all want to see that one there next year. And thanks for the kind words, I'm trying to keep this as close to the magazine article and free plan as possible, although admitttedley I did have to messsage Lindsay last night to confirm a couple of points, nothing major and my photos should make it clear, which is pretty much why I'm not putting too much text in there. I just hope I can persuade a few to have a go. Oh and this is my first plan/scratch build as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services Posted November 3, 2013 Author Share Posted November 3, 2013 Ok after a few days off to get a scale jobbie finished for a comp work has started again. After an unfortunate incident involing a chair, puttin the DF on it and sitting down without looking I had to start the lattice work all over again. Luckily the front half remainded unscathed. i then added some triangular stock and some liteply braces at the rear stern post for strength. Then it was onto sheeting between the u/c support and lattice brace and between the two u/c supports and sand.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services Posted November 3, 2013 Author Share Posted November 3, 2013 and finally for tonight I added in a 6x6mm brace, infilled with 6mm balsa between the brace and the lower longeron and sandwiched the whole lot between 2 pieces of 1mm liteply to create the rear u/c support. Oh yes, nearly forgot, I did mark up some slots, cut them out and inserted and glued the wing support plate, this should be done before the wing seats are added to make it a whole lot easier, this is actually missing from the build article in the magazine. There are more photos in my albums than I am posting here so if I missed anything along the way or you just want more views then feel free. They are all being posted to my facebook page as well, so feel free to pop along, befriend and say hi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted November 3, 2013 Share Posted November 3, 2013 Dylan, don't you ever stop building !! Great skill and enjoyable to watch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services Posted November 3, 2013 Author Share Posted November 3, 2013 And then what would I do? still I'm not not as prolific as Tony B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Bennett Posted November 3, 2013 Share Posted November 3, 2013 lovely looking work sir. i must admit i have never sat on one yet. he he he Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Winks Posted November 3, 2013 Share Posted November 3, 2013 Posted by Tony Bennett on 03/11/2013 20:25:20: lovely looking work sir. i must admit i have never sat on one yet. he he he I concur though having not sat on one I did knock the tail plane of my Tucano carrying it back into the shed after a photo call phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services Posted November 6, 2013 Author Share Posted November 6, 2013 Ok back to reality and some work on the normal size Started work on the battery hatch and there seems to be a problem with the free plan size, as I checked the fuz sizes and FC position and all is correct to plan. This is easily sorted by placing an oversized piece of material over the whole area and mark with a pen, plane and sand and jobs a gud un. Next I decided I would start making the wing parts, so ribs it is then. For this I decided to use the sandwich method. Firstly make some ply/mdf rib blanks as you would a normal rib. Then drill 2 holes, I did these to suit M3 bolts. Then cut some scrap balsa oversized to the blank and drill same 2 holes and bolt the lot together. Then using a David plane and sanding block take the balsa down to the blank, easy, and you end up with a set of identical ribs. I then used a razor saw to cut the verticles for each of the spar cut outs, then removed theply blanks and re bolted everything together ensuring all edges are flush. Cut across slightly above full depth, then using a flat diamond needle file make the width correct by filing and constantly checking with a scrap piece of 6x6mm spruce until you get a nice snug fit that you don't have to force in. Then when this is achieved turn the needle file flat and file down to the correct depth, constantly checking against your scrap spar piece untill it is flush. Once finished, unbolt and start again for the next lot. All in this set of 6 took about 40mins incl the ply blank and a cuppa! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Bennett Posted November 6, 2013 Share Posted November 6, 2013 nicely done. never tried doing it that way before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services Posted November 7, 2013 Author Share Posted November 7, 2013 10 at a time? no problem.... Keep checking the fit of the spars, you want a nice tight fit but not so tight you have to force it in Voila! a complete set... Ok, time to put plan to board, cover with some plastic sheet to protect it, and place lower spars in position and pin down so they are nice and flat. You will not push pins through a spruce spar, so use the criss cross method as in the pic Do a DRY fit of the ribs, now is the time to make any minor alterations to make them fit perfectly Now remove all but one rib, using a square to check that it is, double check position, and wick in some glue of choice, I've used CA on this one since its only light. Do this for every rib as you go down untill a full set are glued in position. Trim to spars flush to the root rib And then cut and fit the false trailing edge that sits in front of the aileron (pic missing will post later). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Bennett Posted November 7, 2013 Share Posted November 7, 2013 looking good. nice and clean working area as well, what is the secret. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services Posted November 7, 2013 Author Share Posted November 7, 2013 I have to share the room with the Dyson , yes I'm in the cupboard under the stairs! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Bennett Posted November 7, 2013 Share Posted November 7, 2013 he he he . glad i got my shed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services Posted November 7, 2013 Author Share Posted November 7, 2013 Next door, 40ft workshop, used for junk storage, other next door 50ft workshop, again full of junk, me a 8x6ft shed, full of half finished planes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylan Reynolds LaserCraft Services Posted November 7, 2013 Author Share Posted November 7, 2013 One thing I should point out, I have read several people mentioning addinng weight to the nose to balance, also I am running a bigger motor than recommended (all I had to hand), therefore I elected to fit spruce spars and not balsa ones as mentioned in the magazine article, plus it will add a little strength. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted November 7, 2013 Share Posted November 7, 2013 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted November 7, 2013 Share Posted November 7, 2013 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.