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Dylan's Dawn Flyer (normal Size)


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So - next point is putting wing half's together - and the dihedral - I wonder how much you will give it. couldn't find any information about it. The wing takes longer than I thought, I just finished sheeting the top yesterday (worked in average one or two hour per evening since the weekend), bottom still to be done.

For the dihedral: I used the wing joiner as a stencil - gave me approximately 2.5 degrees. As I normally fly aerobatic stuff it looks quite much to me.

building break this weekend - family gathering in Austria...

VA

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Did a bit more last night

Firstly the trailing edge from the centre to rib number 3 using 6x6mm balsa (again pic missing I'll re take these 2 and post later)

Then the leading edge was positioned and glued

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Then using 1.5mm sheet, start to cut and fix the trailing edge sheeting

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Make sure to leave an extra 2 or 3mm longer than needed so when you do the bottom side there is something to glue to and then sand down

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I always leave a little overhang at the edges so I can sand later and get flush rather than trying to cut pieces accurately and finding they are too small.

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I have spoken to Linds about it, and he says just follow the wing joiner angles, which is fair enough and simple enough, so basically line the top spar up to the top of the wing joiner so they are flush and when you glue it make sure the wing tip is supported.

Oh, I wonder if anyone will notice the deliberate mistake in the next lot of photos of the completed first wing (to follow), first with the correct answer wins free entry into the RCM&E Greenacres fly in (travel and other expenses not included wink 2).

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Ok so wing tips were produced, for these I used the pin prick method and it worked quite well, thats another first for me

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These had a 3x3mm strip glued to the outside edge which adds rigidity and strength.

Then I added all the upper and lower cap strips

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Then the spars were extended over the tips, upper and lower and sanded flush, I left the cap strip off this until it was done so the spar remains lower than the caps themselves. Again for some reason this pic is missing, for some reason everytime I upload 5 at a time one keeps disappearing lol.

And here we have one completed wing

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And onto wing number 2...

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With the second wing I am working directly over the plan again since the rib spacing is equal all the way down, just make sure the correct ribs are placed in their opposite position, keep the spars all flush the tip end which will now become the root and let the spars over run the other end to be trimmed off later.

I won't bore you with the details of the second wing build I will wait until we get to the wing joiner part, which hopefully will be tomorrow anyway.

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Nope. The wing tip is exactly as it should be on the plan. The pics show pre sanding stage and need blending in still.

The mistake, was due to me rushing to get the wing finished and not re-reading the build instuctions, I applied all the cap strips as shown, but forgot to put on the upper and lower D section sheeting on first!

Now I'm in a bit of a bind as to what to do, do I leave it? As I would of thought an airframe this light is strong enough as is, or do I attempt to strip back the cap strips and apply the D-section sheeting?

Hmmm what to do....

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Yeah the SPAD VII is ribs all the way to the leading edge with hundreds of riblets in between. I'm inclined to agree with you as the only contact points the leading edge strip has is the front of the ribs, a bit of twisting during flight could very easily see them parting company lol.

I could always sheet over the Cap strips and put new cap strips over the existing ones, I know this is going to add weight, but I think its better than risking damaging ribs at this stage, and it is only 1.5mm balsa.

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Ok, a tough afternoon slaving away over the workbench, fixing and sanding and gluing and pinning and fixing

First job of the day was the wing former, I made this out of 3mm ply, using the pin technique again. This time I drew the profile shape onto the ply via the pin holes including the dihedral. I then planed and sanded it to shape but leaving the top edge flat and not cutting the dihedral shape. I marked the centre up, did a few dry runs and finally committed glue to wood and clamped.

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As I mentioned before I left one root rib off so I could dry fit once the wing joiner was fixed So I could get the angle correct to give a flat rib to flat rib gluing area, once the rib position was sorted it was a case of marking up, remove the 2nd wing panel and glue the rib in position. Then mix up some epoxy and spread it over all the contact areas to be joined.

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I added some weight to the flat wing panel to make sure it stayed flat when it was all clamped up. By the way, the dihedral plate gives 28mm at the wing tip.

Then it was onto the tricky part, marking up and removing the cap strips in the areas not required so I could fit the top and bottom D section sheeting. This was fairly easy actually, just very time consuming, in fact 2 coffees worth!. But I think it was worth it in the end, at least its as it should be now. So far only the top D section sheeting is done as I have to get inside the area now to add some support blocks for various bits and pieces including the dowel and wing fastening bolt, oh and I have now ran out of Zapp!

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So all thats left to do on the wing is the bottom sheeting, the remaining cap strips, fit the ailerons and give it a good sanding down.

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Ok after much fiddling and cleaning up some rib surfaces where I removed the cap strips, I finally got the D section sheeting on top and bottom, plus the upper and lower centre sheeting

Not a lot to see I know, but things should start to take shape after this

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The blocks at the front just give the split ribs a bit more strength and the blocks to the rear are the support blocks for the wing bolt, there are also some blocks under the D section for the wing dowel support

Top Decking

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