Chris Bott - Moderator Posted October 21, 2013 Share Posted October 21, 2013 A Mini Tyro wood pack arrived this morning, so: Here we go on mine. Having spent quite a bit of tim cutting ply formers for this:- it's a nice pleasant change to have some perfect looking laser cut parts:- Here's all the Mini Tyro bits straight out of the packet. For this type of construction I tend to cut the shear webs beforehand, this speeds up assembly, spaces the ribs well and jigs them nice and upright. Of course having said that, they weren't quite the right size. here's the wing part way through. and a couple done. Easy peasey this laser cut stuff! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robin Kearney Posted October 21, 2013 Share Posted October 21, 2013 I misread the first post Chris, and found myself thinking 'its been a while but I don't remember the fuselage of my Mini Tyro looking like that' took a few moments to realise that was your lanc r Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted October 21, 2013 Author Share Posted October 21, 2013 Gotcha there Robin A quick sand and a trial fit and it's looking quite wing-ish. Shame Dad's taxi is required now, or the wing tips would go on at least. Edited By Chris Bott - Moderator on 21/10/2013 22:24:30 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robin Kearney Posted October 21, 2013 Share Posted October 21, 2013 Good progress for an evening! I forgot to ask, what will you be powering it with? r Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted October 21, 2013 Author Share Posted October 21, 2013 Power is going to be this Robin. Assuming it passes it's ground running tests once a 3BA nut arrives for a propnut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted October 21, 2013 Share Posted October 21, 2013 Looking good Chris, excellent progress, if you can get this finished in the morning that would be good then we can get back to that opening shot oooo the rivets they are calling...... Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheFlyingCrust Posted October 21, 2013 Share Posted October 21, 2013 Never heard of that little motor. It looks awfully similar to the DC Merlin I have in my MT. What capacity is it? Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted October 22, 2013 Author Share Posted October 22, 2013 Hi Danny. Rivets? there are no rivets on a 1/12 scale model Hi Rentman, as far as I know it is indeed a Merlin. If Geoff Smith (Wonky Webit) ever looks in, this is the model your engine is going in. Looks like this to me anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheFlyingCrust Posted October 22, 2013 Share Posted October 22, 2013 Ah, ok. Should be perfect. A little more power than the Mills so I have a 7x4 on mine. Still gallops along. £2.37p. I must buy a couple whilst in stock Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted October 22, 2013 Author Share Posted October 22, 2013 Tonight - things slowed down while some nice satisfying carving was carried out. Razor saw first, then razor plane, and finally sanding blocks and loose sandpaper. After all shaping was complete, the wings were joined and the centre capping attached. Time for a tidy up I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robin Kearney Posted October 22, 2013 Share Posted October 22, 2013 Nice work Chris, looking good. That is a nice looking little motor. I owned one as a kid and I'm still not quite over my dad throwing it in a skip along with the airframe it was attached too! Have you chosen a colour scheme yet? r. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Concorde Speedbird Posted October 22, 2013 Share Posted October 22, 2013 Ah, the Merlin, you'll need 4 more for the Lancaster Oh wrong one...! Tyro's looking great, a great design. That Lancaster (if it is that) is interesting, is it the TN 72" one? Any build blog? CS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted October 22, 2013 Author Share Posted October 22, 2013 Merlins for the Lanc - brilliant, why didn't I think of that ? Yes it is indeed a Lanc, but it's based on a John Ranson and Trevor Stennard design. I've had the plan for years and it will be altered from the B1 Special version to one of the aircraft my father crewed as a member of 83 Sqdn. R5669 OL-E or R5913 OL-G The model is 2.5M span, should come in under 7kg and be a good practical size. As for a build thread, I probably will, but it's going to be a slow burn project with other things done in between, so if I do a thread, posts won't be very often. Edited By Chris Bott - Moderator on 22/10/2013 22:22:55 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted October 22, 2013 Author Share Posted October 22, 2013 I'm not quite settled on a colour scheme yet Robin, but do quite favour the Orange and Black standard Boddington scheme. I don't think I'll replicate this first Tyro I had, White fus and Metallic Gold Solarfilm wings if I remember correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted November 1, 2013 Author Share Posted November 1, 2013 I grabbed a little more workshop time this evening. I do really enjoy some of Boddo's old techniques. First a photocopy of the plan, then the areas where glue was to be applied had sellotape stuck over them to stop the cyano sticking to the paper. Here the tailplane was framed up with all the 3mm balsa that makes up it's core. It was given a nice flat sand with the big block at this point to even out and slight unevenness in the surfaces. The photocopy was cut so the end profile could be transferred to the wood, and the ends were shaped. Next, more 3mm balsa was glued to one side. and the same on the other side. Finally the large sanding block really came into it's own, for sanding the whole thing to profile. Making a nice light rigid structure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted November 1, 2013 Share Posted November 1, 2013 Nice progress Chris and looking good. BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Bennett Posted November 1, 2013 Share Posted November 1, 2013 love the tail construction method. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted November 1, 2013 Author Share Posted November 1, 2013 I agree Tony, that Mr Boddington seemed to know a thing or two! A couple of small laser cut parts and a few sticks glued together, and we have a fin ready to sand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Bennett Posted November 1, 2013 Share Posted November 1, 2013 nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hooper Posted November 1, 2013 Share Posted November 1, 2013 That looks nice, Chris! tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Davis Posted November 2, 2013 Share Posted November 2, 2013 Ditto. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted November 2, 2013 Author Share Posted November 2, 2013 Here we go with the fuselage then. Making absolutely sure that we're making a left and a right, doublers, wing seat and some 3mm sq were glued to each side. For the doublers, I use aliphatic resin. To make sure I don't add too much weight, I tend to put glue on one doubler, the amount I'd usually use, then rub the two doublers together. This gives a good spread, halves the amount of glue and also helps ensure a left and a right is built. Then, in a departure from the usual sequence, the built up formers weren't built up. The parts were made, and separately glued to the fus sides. The engine bearers and formers were put together dry just to make sure the spacing of the fus sides was consistent. Cross pieces added, always checking and double checking for square. Dry fit again, more checking for square and alignment. Cyano applied, more checking, and then the lower cross pieces added.. I'm sure these are there purely for the ham fisted hand launcher that we all have in our clubs. Of course none of us ever have a sneaky peak of the parts together. Here with a coke can just to show how small this Mini Tyro is. The engine bearer parts won't be glued in until I've sourced a fuel tank, and have it to test for fit. Can anyone help me find something suitable? Between the bearers is about 28mm and between formers is 35mm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator Posted November 2, 2013 Share Posted November 2, 2013 Looks really nice Chris.... A couple of points from a fellow MT owner/builder..... You might find a suitable tank here... don't forget to buy some fuel tube too...!! When fitting the fin the plan shows it surface mounted to the rear sheeting & supported by square stock either side...a neater solution is to reinforce the rear sheeting internally with some soft 1/8th sheet & then cut a slot through the rear sheet & the 1/8th reinforcement & push the fin into the resultant slot......I extended the base of my fin to allow this so my suggestion might be a tad late.... What are you going to finish it in?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted November 2, 2013 Author Share Posted November 2, 2013 Thanks Steve Funny you should mention Dens for a tank, I have one in "my basket" on that site at the moment, along with some diesel tubing. Just thought I'd ask first though, as the one that fit's is a C/L metal one, but I'd rather have a clunk tank. Yes good point on the fin, I looked at that today on the plan and thought how untidy the square stock looked. Mind you, sometimes in an "accident" it's better that things get knocked clean off than actually snap something more substantial. Finish? Still not quite decided, I would very much like to do it in tissue, but that may just be a little fragile. I may use a rather unusual technique to reinforce the tissue, we'll have to see Edited By Chris Bott - Moderator on 02/11/2013 17:02:59 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robin Kearney Posted November 3, 2013 Share Posted November 3, 2013 Hi Chris, I had a good look when I built mine and didn't find any suitable clunk tanks. All the ones Den sells seem to be the wedge shaped aerobatic tanks which wouldn't work very well without the centrifugal force I ended making a tin tank which wasn't half as complex or painful as I thought it would be. I put some pics of the tank made for my KK Phantom here. Which was exactly the same construction, but different dimensions to the Tyro one. Making a tank to be the biggest it could be between the bearers, formers and roof I manage to get about 8 minutes out of my 0.75 mills. Which is plenty for me given the lack of throttle. It splutters nicely at the top of a loop of course, but thats part of the fun. will it cut... won't it cut... When you say an unusual technique to reinforce the tissue do you mean Mylar? I've been considering tissue over mylar for quite a while, if you do choose that method I'd love to know how you get on. Edited By Robin Kearney on 03/11/2013 08:26:08 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.