Chris Bott - Moderator Posted November 3, 2013 Author Share Posted November 3, 2013 That's definitely a solution Robin. Thanks. Where are the ends of your vent pipes positioned? I was wondering about using this one, mounted on it's side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator Posted November 3, 2013 Share Posted November 3, 2013 I did have a go at making a metal tank a while back.....it worked well enough..... Here's the thread.... In fact you can have that tank if you like Chris.....I made it for the Sharkface but ended up electrifying it so the tank is redundant..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheFlyingCrust Posted November 3, 2013 Share Posted November 3, 2013 Hi Chris, Have you considered using Solarfilm LiteSpan? It looks very similar to tissue and dope once applied but its a whole lot tougher. There's no bonding agent on it so use balsaloc or similar on the plane before applying. I find it relatively easy to use. And its supposed to be fuel proof although I can't recollect the distructions saying if that's for diesel fuel. Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robin Kearney Posted November 3, 2013 Share Posted November 3, 2013 Chris, this is a shot of the tank pipes on mine. You could probably get away with shorter brass and fuel tubing, but on a cold day I'm all fingers so they need to be long, although I guess they don't both need to be. I covered mine in Litespan, only fuel proofing around the tank bay and then using Solarlac around the engine bay. As you can some some edges are beginning to lift are a couple of years, but nothing some balsaloc and an iron woulnd't fix. r. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted November 3, 2013 Author Share Posted November 3, 2013 Thanks chaps. Steve, I'll have another measure up and will probably take you up on that. I'll let you know. Rentman/RK, I've used litespan before and I agree on it's advantages. Still not sure what I'll actually do, I do fancy something more traditional. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator Posted November 3, 2013 Share Posted November 3, 2013 Ooo in Boddo colours too Robin....most excellent.... Let me know Chris....yours if you can use it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted November 7, 2013 Author Share Posted November 7, 2013 Just another hour or so on the Tyro tonight. I like to put servos and pushrods in a model quite early on, while I still have access to the whole fus from top and bottom. First of all some servos were chosen and their directions checked with the single channel gear driving them. They need to be installed to suit this, for when I may fly it single channel. The modern gear is then set up to match. I wasn't quite sure how I was going to do this until I started. But a good look, and a check through the materials I might use, and I seem to have gone for a rotary drive for the rudder. On the outside this will appear like an old single channel model that uses a wind up rubber powered escapement. Just another nod of nostalgia. So here's the servo installation. At the back end so far.. One click for left and two clicks for right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted November 7, 2013 Share Posted November 7, 2013 Coming along nicely that Chris! I like the "bang-bang" control system. BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Green Posted November 7, 2013 Share Posted November 7, 2013 Posted by Chris Bott - Moderator on 02/11/2013 16:10:54: ...I tend to put glue on one doubler, the amount I'd usually use, then rub the two doublers together. This gives a good spread, halves the amount of glue and also helps ensure a left and a right is built. What a brilliantly simple idea! I think we've all made two left-hand sides at least once... On the torque rod Chris, it does add a lot to the nostalgia effect. Heres how I do mine. At the servo end, half-an-inch of ear-bud tube is bound & cyano'd to the servo arm, which is set to point vertically downwards. The torque-rod has a 90° bend which drops into the tube, and is retained by either a rubber band or a spring keeper: At the rear, instead of bending the rod itself, I cut it short, then bind & solder an 'L' shape. This means that neutral rudder can be adjusted after assembly by re-heating the joint: Just a suggestion re the choice of servos with particular travel directions, remember the S/C encoder has reversing and travel adjust - half travel is usually best for a directly connected torque rod. Of course you might want to keep to one servo direction to avoid changing tx settings between models, which is a good idea. I must admit I keep going back to the Andrew Boddington article, and thinking what a cracking s/c model the Mini-Tyro is! Cheers Phil Edited By Phil Green on 07/11/2013 23:34:38 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 7, 2013 Share Posted November 7, 2013 Looks great Chris, really like the way this is going, might have to flatter you by "borrowing" that idea for the Tinker Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted November 8, 2013 Author Share Posted November 8, 2013 Thanks Chaps I like your system Phil. As for a single channel Tyro, go on - you know you want to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted November 21, 2013 Author Share Posted November 21, 2013 With today's chat on the mass build thread of folk building too soon, I thought I'd crack on and do a little more to mine . Not a great deal to show though. A couple of new jobs done now. The snake outer for the elevator it trimmed and secured. I use a tiny piece of skinning cloth and pink zap to wrap over the snake. Looks very untidy but it will be hidden away. It's nice and permanent though. The tail skid and mount are always a job that takes a while. It's now sewn together the thread has been soaked in epoxy, and the assembly epoxied to the tail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted November 21, 2013 Share Posted November 21, 2013 Nice needle work Chris! And such posh photos - if you like I'll give you a few hints on getting a bit more atmosphere in them though - like I get in mine! BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted November 21, 2013 Author Share Posted November 21, 2013 Good job you can't see the atmosphere in these BEB, I think the dog must have had sprouts! (only joking ) Yours are better with the flash turned on now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted November 28, 2013 Author Share Posted November 28, 2013 Sorry no updates recently, I've been doing tiny bits not very often. Nothing worth reporting, that's up until now. The fus top and bottom sheeting went as expected, gluing 3" sheet on cross grain bit by bit. Nothing worth taking a picture of there. Then, I've been wrestling with whether to go absolutely standard, or whether to do something a little different as usual. As you may have learned to expect, the "something different" got the better of me yet again, so a little development of a previous plan modification I've done, has been going on in the background... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted November 28, 2013 Author Share Posted November 28, 2013 ...and I'm rather pleased at how this one's going. Here, we see the front of the fus, pretty much as you'd expect it. Steve's lovely little tank turned up, thank you Steve. At this point I was very glad I waited. The formers needed to be just a few mm further apart than standard. Look close enough, and there a couple of little areas that do not appear on the plan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted November 28, 2013 Author Share Posted November 28, 2013 Here we can see why I've been having a good muse, and a try of this and that, and a fit and a glue, and slowly the mod came together and seems to work pretty well. Once the Top sheeting is in place I think it will be hard to see that anything is at all unusual. Finally the two side by side. Two M3 bolts down through the engine bearers near the front will be all that's needed to switch types. If I'm careful, these could even be the bolts that hold the paxolin engine mount in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Winks Posted November 28, 2013 Share Posted November 28, 2013 Now that's what I call a clever mod ! Pun intended DavePhil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted November 28, 2013 Share Posted November 28, 2013 Ooooo! That's clever! An interchanable Tyro! I like it.. Very swish! BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted November 28, 2013 Author Share Posted November 28, 2013 Thanks Phil (nice pun ) Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Winks Posted November 28, 2013 Share Posted November 28, 2013 No worries Chris just not sure why I called you Dave must be a premature senior moment lol Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator Posted November 29, 2013 Share Posted November 29, 2013 Looks great Chris...particularly the tank......how is the power pod retained in the fuselage?? Do you have a captive nut or two somewhere?? Be interesting to see where your battery ends up....mine has a 3S 1300 pack prectty much on the CoG.....Ooo & don't forget provision for a small Rx battery for the IC version.....would hate to see you remember that bit just after launching.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted November 29, 2013 Author Share Posted November 29, 2013 Thanks Steve The power pod sits on two dowels at the back, and will screw down through the bearers into blocks at the front. As for batteries, there's plenty of provision for both the electric power battery, and an I/C Rx pack, anywhere from under the tank, to the back of the wing seat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted November 29, 2013 Author Share Posted November 29, 2013 Change of direction tonight and all very exciting. For covering I've settled on a method used by freeflighters for a very light but durable finish. That is: Tissue over Mylar. The mylar film is 5 microns thick, and there's one problem, it's really hard to handle. The stuff I've had in a drawer is metalised to so looks like chrome. I'm sticking it on with an outline of thinned clearcoat on the structure, then its a really fiddly, sometimes exasperating job of Ironing it on and heat shrinking it. The tailplane has actually gone better than I expected, and is looking very snazzy. Doesn't seem right to cover it up with tissue to be honest, but having done the second side, the first is absolutely covered in fingerprints and marks. Might just stick some tissue on now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Winks Posted November 29, 2013 Share Posted November 29, 2013 That's a lovely finish your right seems a shame to cover it up Chris. Is there any danger the metallised finish will interfere with the radio signal I wonderPhil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.