Bootlegger

[Terence Moore]

I then check the measurement from outer edge of aileron cut outs in wing to rear centre of the fueslage, to make sure nothing has moved since the wing was set up. followed by aileron cut outs tt elevator cut outs.

[Terence Moore]

And finally, glue in with 30 minute epoxy, clamp in place and double/triple check all previous settings ( last chance to make any adjustment)

I havve purposely left off the fuselage top decking at this point.

[Martyn K]

Brilliant.

One question though. How do you keep a workshop so empty? You could swing a cat in there. I also like the incidence meter - I have never seen one like that before

Martyn

[Terence Moore]

Martyn, I am lucky really in that my workshop is a small barn, fitted out with kitchen units and worktops on 2 sides, model storeage on the other. Working area in the middle, either using a Black & Decker "workmate" of "Great Mate" as supports.

It isn't always this tidy only when I photo post on line. It is also just big enough for me to practice hovering a small heli (Perkins Twister)...not very well.

The incidence meter was given to me by the son of a deceased modeller. I also have a digital one, but forgot to switch it off after the last time I used it.......flat battery.

[Terence Moore]

Now i am starting to fit the last flying surface.....the fin and rudder.

First I have pre-cut a slot in the fuselage top decking, before glueing in place.

[Terence Moore]

Again, sorry for picture orientation..it was loaded and saved corrctly on my pc. but appears to have rotated 90 degrees to the left.

Any advice please??

[Martyn K]

Hi Terry

What are you going to cover the model with? Are you going to glass/paint it of go for a film covering?

Sorry - cant help with the photos either..

Martyn

[Terence Moore]

That's a good question Martyn.

I am not very good at glassing having only tackled small areas before.

I am thinking of the majority covered in film, and the canopy/pipe tunnel glassed and painted.

[Terence Moore]

Before fitting the fin, like the other flying surfaces, I shaped the rudder and trial fitted hinges (Robart)

[Terence Moore]

I then jigged the alignment of the fin to the fuselage, using a flat piece of balsa, taped across the tailplane, at elevator position, marked with the centre position, to which is taped a metal square to ensure the fin fits perpendicular.

[Terence Moore]

final check before gluing ( 30 minute epoxy) measure from aileron cut outs each side,to a datum mark on the top of the fin.

[Terence Moore]

Now I am seeking feedback/advice from those more experienced than me, relative to the elevator pushrod.

The elevators are hinged seperately, on the hinge line of the rudder.

With an anhedral tail do I either :- (a) make up an angled wire joiner with pushrod to one elevator only; (b) make up a single pushrod with forked ends to the elevators, needing identical geometry; (c) have 2 snakes/pushrods and join together at the servo end with single connection to the servo output arm?????

Advice please

[Steve Dunning]

Hi Terry. The angled wire elevator joiner will not work due to the geometry of the linkage. I would use a forked pushrod (as I have done on all my retro models). The two snake system is an option, as typified by the DEPS system described on the Central Hobbies. Giant Shark have dual elevator couplers but unsure of the how the widths would suit. Hope that helps.

Steve

[minty morton]

For what it's worth I've gone the forked route for my pacemaker using 3mm pushrods to make it nice and stiff, a little heavy maybe

[minty morton]

Must admit I didn't realise giant shark did them for so little money or I think I would have gone for their dual linkage. I've used the MK version before but expensive at £35.

Takes a bit of finding on GS website you need to search for elevator not dual elevator.

Ah well too late to change now

[Bill Michie]

FWIW.....................

Both my ARF Curare and the GP Dirty Birdy, have split elevators; both use the same method of elev control:

Two "snake" outer tubes, supported at ends & in the middle; and then 2 x 1.2-1.5mm steel pushrods with solder links & clevises at the tail ends, and joined together at the servo end (slight bend to get parallel) with either two wheel collars, or by binding/soldering (I did both for belts & braces); the servo end simply fits a standard servo arm with a 90deg bend & a "snap keeper". Did the same for the Curare flaps....................

It's simple, effective, and has NO slop (including that if you hold one elev, the other will NOT move relative to it). If the servo arm hole wears, very simple replacement at no cost.

I'm sure there are variations on the theme but in this case, the KISS principle works (as it did back in the day) & needn't cost a fortune in fancy after-market linkages....................

Just an alternative, simple view............

Bill

[Terence Moore]

Thanks Bill, I am working on a simple variation of your suggestion, but the same principle.

Will post results when done.

Thanks again for all of the various suggestions.

Terry

[Terence Moore]

Firstly many apologies for delay in continuing the build diary, caused by lots of work, which fortunately helps pay for hobby.

Moving on to the dual elevator pushrod. I used two snakes, the servo threaded ends of which were bolted to a strip of brass, which in turn was drilled for a 2 mm bolt, thread locked and to which the servo clevis was fitted.

Simple.

[Terence Moore]

It was important to then secure the snake outers, close to the servo to prevent movement, but allowing a minute amount of twist to follow the rotary action of the servo output arm.

I secured them to a 1/2" strip of balsa with cable clips of the right diameter, screwed into the balsa.

[Terence Moore]

And then intermediate supports of similar sized balsa drilled for the snakes to pass through, but a good tight sliding fit. Keeping a parallel gap between th snakes untill they exit the fuselage at the rear.

[Terence Moore]

Next to set up was the rudder pushrod, which I made up traditionally from dowel and 2mm. pushrods/clevises, taking care to avoid clashing with the elevator snakes.

It is my usual practice to install the radio equipment BEFORE sheeting the underside of the fuselage, in case any adjustments are needed.

[Terence Moore]

This is the exit end in the fuselage

[Bill Michie]

Hi Terence, well done on a great project: You're obviously a "proper" builder, unlike me! One thing I noticed on your last photo though..............

The rudder pushrod has a substantial "Z" bend in the pushrod where it exits the fuz; I've done this in the past & found that the pushrod will very easily bend (sideways, ie in & out of the slot), which can in extreme cases, almost cancel out the required control action, ESPECIALLY under compression.............. in this case, left rudder input in flight would/could "blow back" the rudder by simply bending the pushrod. You can check if this will occur by holding the rudder servo with left rudder, then trying to straighten the rudder by hand.

The last model I experienced this on was an unflown scale model I was generously Bequeathed, on which "up" elevator at speed would have completely unloaded the elevators by compressing/bending the pushrod! (& it's a fast model). Needless to say, I modified the pushrod by stiffening & adding guides, before flying....................

Just a thought so that, if necessary, it can be sorted at this early stage (stiffer wire, much smaller Z bend, even a heavy-duty "snake" pushrod etc.)

Best regards & keep up the good work!

Bill

[Terence Moore]

Thanks Bill, but I have checked the rigidity of the rudder pushrod and it's fine, no discernible flexibility and should be ok..

The true test of course will be when I fly the model!!!!!!!!!

[Terence Moore]

Now is the time to build up the belly pan, with wing bolted on, and a combination of sheet and triangular balsa.

I traced the proflle of the wing cut out from the fuselage onto 1/4" sheet sides, and reversed it, to get the correct shape ( as the wing is a fullt symmetrical section)