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Traplet Farmhand 90


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Posted by Gary Manuel on 06/04/2014 22:00:13:
Posted by Kevin Fairgrieve on 06/04/2014 17:25:58:

Glad to see you did not have the same issue`s that I had.

My Farmhand build.

It is finished ready for covering.

Kev

Edited By Kevin Fairgrieve on 06/04/2014 17:35:14

Hi Kevin,

I read your blog with interest before I started mine. Gave me a few tips for what to look out for.

I assume the issues you are talking about are the inaccurate laser cut parts. No mine were all pretty good.

I felt for you when you got to the bit where the servo holes were in the wrong ribs blush

The positive side of making the mistake and publishing it is that it helps others avoid similar problems. I made sure that I cut some small squares in the lower surface before I skinned the top (see later in my build log). You can take some credit for that wink

Hi Gary.

Yes mainly the issue`s with the poor fit of the CNC cut parts. Pleased yours were OK, I think maybe Traplet took a look at the kits after I and a few others commented.

The servo cut outs in the wrong position is an embarrassment but not a big issue.blush Like you I did also cut a small hole in the skin, just in the wrong place, as I had already put the servo mount between the wrong ribs.

Now that my two builds for Greenacres are complete, I feel the need to cover the Farmhand.yes

Kev

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Time to make a start on the wings.

4 off 48" x 10" sheeting needed for the wings. I made 4 of these (upper and lower x 2) by cutting a 48" x 4" lengthwise to make 2 off 48"x 2", then taping it between 2 off 48" x 4" sheets. All sheeting 3/32" and laid flat on an old double glazed unit that suddenly and expensively became a single glazed unit accidentally whilst I was building my log cabin blush

dscn2652low[1].jpg

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Like this:

My first attempt at this method used thin cyano which ran out half way down the run. Almost ended in disaster. Following ones I did with aliphatic resin like this. After running the glue in, remove the supports so that it lays flat. Wipe of excess immediately, tape over the joint and leave overnight.

I have subsequently switched to using cyano now I have practiced this method as it avoids the taping and overnight wait. I have learnt to make sure I have enough cyano in the bottle before I start though.

dscn2654low[1].jpg

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9 x 6 mm spruce spar cyano'd along one edge of the sheeting.

Ribs used to line up the position of the main 9 x 9mm spruce spar before cyano'ing into position.

Ribs, servo trays and webs glued in position with aliphatic resin, taking care to get all the ribs in the right place as shown on the supplied diagram (Kevin blush). There are 4 different types of rib:

R1 = root - with a long slot in the leading edge for the Wing Locator Tab which is added after the wing is fully sheeted.

R2 = special second from the root with an extra cutout for a short spar (To allow toffee bomb slot to be cut out if required later).

R3 = basic rib.

R4 = with slots for the servo trays.

dscn2655low[1].jpg

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John,

2kW convector heater but I don't use it often - mainly used for lengthening epoxy setting time rather than keeping me warm.

Tape hinge method for sheet joining works well. 100% success rate so far. Key is having a flat surface and everything to hand (cyano) before you start.

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To control the motor, I'll need a couple of servos to be mounted well inside the fuselage (DLE say 12 inches away from the engine) One for the throttle and one for the choke, which I may decide to replace by a simple manual arrangement. After much consideration, I found a suitable place (spoilt for choice really) and made this servo tray from a bit of scrap lite-ply.

dscn2661low[1].jpg

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And glue in place using suitable bracing.

Note that the chute here is for placing sweets in when using as a toffee bomber. I won't be doing this. The 750ml tank is planned to go approximately here, which is approximately at the CofG position. Note ply shelf added to support the tank bringing the mouth of the toffee chute.

dscn2663low[1].jpg

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