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Jet Provost Another Late Starter Build


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The Decalage set-up as always raises a concern when I do a build, balsa and ply a material I can draw on to get the angles correct etc, etc, epp foam is a lot harder to mark-out.

So to help get the desired 1-1.5 degree of positive incidence on the wing from the elevator position - geometric decalage.

I've made a pattern / tool which is pinned on the side after lining up with the tailplane seat with both fuselage and pattern resting on the work bench, then the aperture for the wing is cut out with a vertical hot-wire cutter.

jp decalage pattern.jpg

Edited By Mark Kettle 1 on 30/05/2014 11:11:54

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Looks really interesting build Mark.

I was considering doing a lost fibreglass and foam wing version. Paul Janssen has plan of such a version, but he says it is no lightweight. That is the problem with fibreglass.

This looks really interesting and no doubt wiil end up very lightweight.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Cheers for the comments Peter.

Done lots of other fitting and pattern tweaking on the JP. One thing I didn't have was a tailpipe and that curved shape at the rear end, so this evening been working on a small 45 mm depth part to make amends in the tailpipe area.

See photos : -

jp tailpipe patterns.jpg

jp tailpipe foam parts.jpg

jp tailpipe foam on plan.jpg

jp tailpipe foam top view.jpg

Edited By Mark Kettle 1 on 13/06/2014 22:15:23

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Torque Rods :-

Copying Matt Jones choice of torque rods - 2.4 mm steel with 2 mm extenders on servo end.

Also to keep it simple placing rods in mid section of the wing in the epp foam trailing edge -whilst it makes its way to the aileron.

How I put the groove / slot is in the foam edge - at 10 mm wide and 340 mm long is held flat against the hot wire cutting table with a old kitchen tile.

Adjusting the hot wire to 5 mm off the base - it has screws either end of the bow and weighted down to the bench to allow me to do this - I then bring the work up to the wire just melting 1-2 mm in - pull work (trailing edge) back out again.

Then I bring the wire up with one whole turn on both side screws - bring the work back in for another melt - again pull out.

Now I go down with the wire back to 5 mm then down one whole turn on the screws and back in for another melt, being careful not to go in to far . to deep would make the slot useless and not give radial movement.

I find the rod works in the foam like with a 340 mm bearing, when I glue back on the trailing edge sometimes a little glue gets on the rod - however just a little twisting for a couple of minutes soon free's it off.

See the pictures :

torque rod in epp foam trailing edge .jpg

slot groove cut in epp foam trailing edge .jpg

2.4 mm wire rod in groove up against drag spar.jpg

example epp foam trailing edge wire torque rod and drag spar.jpg

Edited By Mark Kettle 1 on 15/06/2014 19:39:45

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