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Covering tip tanks with Solarfilm


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Hello fellow JP builders. I am nearing completion of my JP, but have a problem. I am trying to Solarfilm the tip tanks. They are so small and all compound curves and they have defeated me so far!.

Does anybody have any tips? Do I use a single piece of film? 2 pieces of film or a load of strips? I've been trying to use a single piece of film with a temperature controlled filming iron but just burn my fingers and get a creased mess and then have to tear the film off and start again.

Help!

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Personally I'd go for two pieces - but not top and bottom! Start by putting a smallish piece on the inside face covering to about 1/3 up - so no real problem with the compound curve there. Then add the spigot to that face and move to the outside. Tack down the film here along the centre outer surface line. Once this is anchored start simultaineously pulling and heating to draw the film round the compound curves and downward. The aim is to meet up with the bit you have done underneath. The only way to avoid creases here is to stretch the film.

There used to be a really good video on the Solarfilm website showing how to cover a wingtip with double curvature - a very similar shape to the one you are dealing with. I don't know if its still there?

BEB

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The trick is to pull the solarfilm over the curve and away from the wood, and whilst stretched out place the iron up against the film so it takes out the creases whilst the film is in air, not on the wood, once it is hot and pliable the film can then be pulled down firm over the tip tank curve and you can iron it down without creases... then you move round a bit more and repeat the method. It is incremental, it is tricky, but it does work.

Ive done my second pair today, I ended up using 4 strips per tip tank, as curving it round more than 90degrees was proving tough without creases...

You WILL get use to having burnt fingers... mine are battered after todays ironing and heat gunning too. frown

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I know the tip tanks are relatively small on the Provost, but I've had success on wing tips by employing the use of another pair of hands and a heat gun. I would initially iron down the main wing panel and then get a mate to pull the film over the wing tip as tightly as he could whilst I carefully wafted the heat gun over it. Great care is need, but the result is spot on.

Edited By Bill_B on 12/05/2014 07:44:03

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On the original model, I had three pieces of Profilm on each tank, initially well oversize so that it could be trimmed in situ when it had got to the limit of its shrinkage, and that worked OK - but you have to know what temperature the iron is, and you have to stretch the film around corners as described by Phil using an iron temperature right at the top of the heat range - if you're pulling the film whilst it's being heated up, you can feel it "give" slightly when it gets to the right temperature (it goes a bit plastic) and at that point you can pull it some more to store up a bit of stretch that will be used up when you apply the iron again.

If using Solarfilm, I'd personally go with 4 pieces of film rather than 2.

Also, I had the iron in a vice - call it cheating, if you like, but it was either that or get the Minister for Home Affairs to hold the iron...

I'm planning (=hoping) to start covering later this week, I'll post some pictures.

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take your time, use 3 or 4 pieces of film, run the iron along a straight line from nose to tail then work the film either side of that anchor point as described above - you'll get there!! Heres a photo of the second pair I've just finished this weekend - each used 4 pieces of solarfilm, a high heat on the iron, a lot of pulling and stretching, then cut off clean when you can work the peiece no more and iron down the edge without wrinkles...finish off with the heat gun...

dad10.jpg

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Hi Phil, you've made an excellent job of your tip tanks.

I have managed to cover 1 of my tanks tonight using 3 strips of solarfilm with my iron set at 123 degC. I couldn't cope with iron in a vice but I managed by wearing a pair of shorts so that I could grip the tank between my knees and hold it firmly enough for me to iron with one hand and stretch the film with my other.

I've got nowhere near your standard of finish but I am happy with my result - it will look fine in the air, which is where I like my models to be.

Thanks to everyone who contributed to help me through.

See you all on June 1st.

Bryan

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